Connecting Rod

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

formiko

Active Member
Messages
59
So I opened up my LRP z.28 spec 3 to clean the OWB. I was also changing the flywheel and clutch. In doing so I noticed a little slop in the connecting rods connection to the crank. So I completely disassembled the engine and put the connecting rod back on the crank outside the block. In doing so I could definitely feel play in the connecting rods bearing to the crank.

My main question is, how much play should there be if any? It feels like there is too much.

My other question is, should I replace the wrist pin and crank shaft at the same time? There is no noticeable play on the wrist pin. Or should I wait on the crank to see if there is play with the new connecting rod?

This engine has about 1.5 gallons through it at the most.

Did I get lucky noticing this early?

I guess I get to put my old f4.6 back in for the time being that my brother in law P&Ped.
 
I was always told to dab some thick oil on the crank pin, like 3 an 1 oil. Then take the rod and move it back and forth and if u can see oil push out then its too sloppy. I would say that if you can feel play, then it's time for a new c rod. Wrist pins are cheap so why not but good luck finding parts.
 
There are several connecting rods on ebay, and tower is supposed to be getting them, and tower has a limited quantity of crank shafts.

Let me explain it further, you can see the rod rock on the pin on the crank shaft.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well I am getting a new connecting rod and crankshaft from dollarhobbyz_2 on ebay. Great price.

Now how many break in tanks should I run to break in the crank and connecting rod when I get the parts in? Also what is best used to clean out the crankcase when rebuilding the engine?
 

Latest posts

Members online

Back
Top