Bulletproofing spur and c.bell

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mekios

Member
Messages
40
Location
Athens, Greece
I had a little bashing yesterday, and it seems, my savvy landed on WOT after a small jump. As a result spur gear was stripped... because (i found later), the engine plate cracked!

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What would you recommend as a good spur gear and clutch bell setting, so i won't go through lots of spur gears and cb's? (Engine plate will be fixed)
And what was the cause of my engine plate cracking ? (Ok WOT on landing, but that is a bit common situation, will it always tear stuff apart?)
 
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wot on landing will tear stuff up 90% of the time. wether its the slipper pad gettin ripped apart, or the diffs blowing apart. you might of landed upside down or something to crack the engine plate, maybe upgrade to a thicker plate...

there isnt a whole lot you can do about stripping spurs, if you landing wot. you want to get a piece of paper, and have the s and cb leave nice indentations, but no cuts, in the paper when you feed it through them.

hope this helps.
 
Correct Dan. I have plastic spurs in my trucks that have been on for over a year and a couple gallons on them.
 
do not get any metal Spurgear!!!
if you set the mesh right, youll never need it. period!
besides, think of it....this is the safe-net in case of a shock from the drivetrain which takes out the spur and not your trans-gears.

keep the spur-nut backed off a full turn in case of a sudden shock and you could even run a soap bar across the spur-teeth.
 
it is not uncommon for the plate to bend or break...now for your spur gear get the metal hpi 47 gear spur and the hpi racing 17 clutch bell.

http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/77107/ clutch bell


http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/77127/ spur gear

i second this with a metal spur and the linked clutch bell you wont have any probs with the drivetrain as long as your slipper is set. the metal spur gear recking trannys is a mith i have run this or similar steel set ups for about a year and 5 gallons with no issues at all.
 
I never had a prob with my plastic spurs...He wanted bullet proof...I gave him bullet proof. Matter fact I run both now and several other combos...all hd metal and have never had a problem with those either.
 
Rtr and kit trucks of almost all brands come with metal drive gears...losi...ofna...ae...thunder tiger...koyosho....cen...sportwerks.....HPI....the list goes on.
 
nope...hpi would not put a steel spur stock on the XL...X SS....if it did....what ever you do don't show bank this thread...HD metal combos is all he runs...he'll have a field day with this topic for the next 6 months!:lmao:
 
Would a steel spur-racing bell setup require a change of clutch shoes? I see that the racing bell is vented, does this affect the shoes?
Forgot to mention before, that the car is purely stock X 4.6
 
Would a steel spur-racing bell setup require a change of clutch shoes? I see that the racing bell is vented, does this affect the shoes?
Forgot to mention before, that the car is purely stock X 4.6

No, Yes- it helps reduce the amount of heat hence less fatigue on the shoes longer life. If your new to this truck and or hobby I would 1st start off with a plastic spur gear and get use to the dynamics. Once your acquire an understanding run a steel spur. Your mesh has to be dead on and always keep an eye on it. All I run are steel spurs Harden vented CBs. Again if your new to this, I would not fart with this area until you had to. Get a feeling for the truck get use to it.
 
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Ok i am new to the hobby but i dunno, i judge by the sound of it... Steel vs plastic. I guess a bad mesh will destroy anything, be it plastic or steel. On the other hand, plastic is expendable, you can have another one as a spare.
Too confused...
Is the racing cb a must, whether i choose plastic or steel spur?
 
do not get any metal Spurgear!!!
if you set the mesh right, youll never need it. period!
besides, think of it....this is the safe-net in case of a shock from the drivetrain which takes out the spur and not your trans-gears.

keep the spur-nut backed off a full turn in case of a sudden shock and you could even run a soap bar across the spur-teeth.

well my x ss came with metal spur and vented c.b. i set the mesh exactly like hpi says to with a piece of paper, slipper as well...both gears look like they are in perfect condition.

so you think i should switch to plastic?:resp:
 
do not get any metal Spurgear!!!
if you set the mesh right, youll never need it. period!
besides, think of it....this is the safe-net in case of a shock from the drivetrain which takes out the spur and not your trans-gears.

keep the spur-nut backed off a full turn in case of a sudden shock and you could even run a soap bar across the spur-teeth.

I disagree with that slipper setting. back it off about 1/8 inch, 1/4 max.
 
jcam i would like to see if anyone can prove that the steel spurs ruin trannies

think of this way. if you were to land a jump at wot with a plastic spur gear whats going to happen? massive rpm bottleneck that unloads on the plastic spur ripping the gear apart and releasing the bind between the trans, spur, and cb with a minimal amount of pressure. on the flip side, steel spur, being much harder is going to take a lot more pressure to strip and has a greater potential to transfer that shock to your trans gears. you should try it out and do a write up on it. "wot landing with steel spur vs plastic spur" i'd like to see the aftermath of both.
 
nope...hpi would not put a steel spur stock on the XL...X SS....if it did....what ever you do don't show bank this thread...HD metal combos is all he runs...he'll have a field day with this topic for the next 6 months!:lmao:
:duh: :lmao: The plastic spurs are fine but anything not perfect and they are toast. With the HD/race your mesh can be further off with no damage. I would not go as far to call them bulletproof but they are very noob resistant. They will not damage any other part on the truck ever. All myths, that comes from most adjusting the slipper wrong and when you hear of them eating CB's is normally do to a noob running them with HD or stock bells. Racing bells only on them ... I have the very first 2 HD spurs on my trucks I ever had. Never a issue. Even when I bent the mill plate off a bad jump at the skate park and they shot sparks.. still as new! That should cover six months of posts ...

Only thing is they add weight to the drive train. that was only a issue back in the .21 days . A .28 will not care in the least plastic or steel...
 
Bank, you got a point there...
The magic words are "noob resistant"... I think i'll order the setup recommended by jcam.
 
think of this way. if you were to land a jump at wot with a plastic spur gear whats going to happen? massive rpm bottleneck that unloads on the plastic spur ripping the gear apart and releasing the bind between the trans, spur, and cb with a minimal amount of pressure. on the flip side, steel spur, being much harder is going to take a lot more pressure to strip and has a greater potential to transfer that shock to your trans gears. you should try it out and do a write up on it. "wot landing with steel spur vs plastic spur" i'd like to see the aftermath of both.

if your slipper is set there should be a quick slip of that clutch then the steel spur gear drives on . the plastic tears to shreads and you are down waiting for parts hmmm.
 
I went through probably 5 spur gears when my Savvy was new. I finally figured out how to properly adjust the mesh with paper and haven't had any problems since. For 3 to 4 bucks apiece it's a cheap weak link and a fast fix, IMO
 
ever try a plastic spur on a mill that does this to trannys ??

Mesh them any way you want.... I'd spend more on spurs..

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I personally have never stripped a spur gear. My son when he drives the Savage seems to strip them (From throttled landings.. still teaching him)

Proper mesh (I use the paper trick and then feel) and proper off throttle landings and you should not have any trouble.

You can buy 10 plastic spurs for the price of just 1 metal one.

*
 
....which could have been also prevented by backing the spur-nut off some more. but a metal spur is not the fix here folks
 
....which could have been also prevented by backing the spur-nut off some more. but a metal spur is not the fix here folks
So you think the factory 1/4 turn back is to much ?
 

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