finally got out to break in these 2 savage X 4.6 we followed the break in steps on this site and not the manual we put them on ground and ran them at factory settings slowly for 4 mins and let cool down to 80 . Temps were checked with a temp gun . never got them past 150 degrees and it was 80 degrees outside. Ran 4 tanks this way giving a quick blip now and then . am i right i couldnt get temps up because hsn was to rich ? ,well it started to rain we had call it quits . will got out monday should i put after run in carb and plug hole or only do that when your not going to run it in a long while? Also i noticed that the other 4.6 gear under the flywheel was turning while idling and the other 4.6was not ...is that just an adjustment ?
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breaking =in
- Thread starter bobbd
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- Dekalb, IL 60115
The flywheel should always turn when the engine is running. The bell/spur will turn when the clutch engages. If the flywheel isn't spinning when it's running, you need to take the engine out, remove the CB, clutch shoes and flywheel nut. Odds are, if it ran for long, you will need possibly a new flywheel and collet (the cone piece). The flywheel is held fast to the crank via the friction between it, the collet and the crankshaft. Whenever I pull a flywheel/collet, I make sure to clean all surfaces with denatured alcohol to remove any oil before reinstalling or it will likely slip. Then put some locktite on the flywheel nut and tighten it down.
A lot of times with a new engine, you won't get the temps up above 200 for the first few cycles as it's really rich, the fit between the piston and sleeve is allowing a lot of blowby and RPM's aren't getting up. After the first couple cycles though, I usually lean it enough to be able to drive it gently around while slowly increasing/decreasing the throttle. I usually start doing that after the first cycle and continue to do so throughout breakin.
A lot of times with a new engine, you won't get the temps up above 200 for the first few cycles as it's really rich, the fit between the piston and sleeve is allowing a lot of blowby and RPM's aren't getting up. After the first couple cycles though, I usually lean it enough to be able to drive it gently around while slowly increasing/decreasing the throttle. I usually start doing that after the first cycle and continue to do so throughout breakin.
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- 4,790
Yes the flywheel needs to be turning when the engine is running....if not remove the engine as Olds suggested and effect repairs......
- Messages
- 2,627
- Location
- Dekalb, IL 60115
Yes.
To remove confusion as to what's called what:
If you already know the terminology, then ignore the image.
When at idle, the flywheel should spin, the bell should not, the spur should not. Unless you have the wheels off the ground, then the bell/spur may spin a bit at idle just due to drag. Once you increase the RPM, the clutch shoes inside the bell swing out and rub on the bell, which is what transfers the power from the engine to the spur.
- Messages
- 2,627
- Location
- Dekalb, IL 60115
Yeah, the bell/spur shouldn't spin at idle, so if that's what yours is doing, you should be ok.
- Messages
- 2,627
- Location
- Dekalb, IL 60115
Personally, I'd have started leaning it after the first half tank, at least a little, so that by the end of tank 2, I was up at 200F.
If your doing the heat cycle method, then you want to let it cool to 80F or so after each cycle. By the time I'm getting through 6-8 tanks, I'm running a full tank or two between cycles and leaning it to get it running better while driving it gently as I mentioned earlier.
If your doing the heat cycle method, then you want to let it cool to 80F or so after each cycle. By the time I'm getting through 6-8 tanks, I'm running a full tank or two between cycles and leaning it to get it running better while driving it gently as I mentioned earlier.
- Thread starter
- #11
thanks olds,,but what a day . we were breaking both x4.6s in again today..after about 2 tanks of fuel my truck took off like a bat out of hell it was screaming had to be wot it crashed into a curb flipped over, when i got to it the muffler and air filter and neck were couple feet from rc. thats all the damage guess i was lucky if engine still runs... i tried to reset the failsafe that comes with the x 4.6 but it would not work if you follow hpi's instructions one sentence says hold down the setup button the next sentence says press and release another sentence says led will flash the next says led will be continuously be lit any way it then says turn transmitter off and the brakes would be applied but that does not happen either... what would make this truck go ballistic like that could it be the 2 transmitters we were using were to close to each other ? the 2 savage x 4.6 are both stock and new with stock transmitters and servos..
- Messages
- 2,627
- Location
- Dekalb, IL 60115
Man, that sucks. I never used HPI radios before.
- Messages
- 4,790
I guess I need to ask, do these radio systems use 2.4 g or are they the old crystal style systems????
