Axial .28 break-in??

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PhilBurr

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Hey everyone, I just got a Axial .28 for my savage, just startin to break it in and was wondering how to get it to idle? It seems like it either wants to idle too fast or when I adjust the idle screw then it wants to die? I'm starting to get a little discouraged with my nitro experience, I got this motor to run til I can get my issues with my RB modded .28 STS sorted out. Any help would be great!!

Phil
 
Check the carb first, I am still in the break in process my self and I had a bit of a air leak right where the carb goes into the motor. Simple fix though just use a rtv sealant that is o2 sensor safe and let it dry, make sure you don't put too much on though. For the price that motor has a lot of snot after you break it in. I also found the best way to start it when its cold is to crack the plug just a hair and tighten it back up after its running.
 
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I would put money the needles are leaking air. I've got a good thread goin on this with my .32 axial. By the way I still haven't got my engine back from the them.
 
Nope never owned one, did you see the videio of site jesters sts 30...holy crap that thing is sailing. I did just buy a lrp 28 this weekend on ebay. Any suggestions on a good pipe? I only have the tuned and ribbed hpi pipes.
 
Sorry BlazerX.
I meant that comment for PhilBur.
You got an LRP? Excellent dude. Yea, On the pipe, if ya don't have one already picked out, use an HPI polished pipe.

It a good full spectrum pipe.
Ask LRP also for reccommended pipe.
JP pipes are also known for their power tuned line.
 
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i sealed my carb first thing works like a charm,you are gonna like this engine,mines been great 3 1/2 gallons
 
Hey PhilBur,
I thought I remember you saying you had an STS 30rb.
Your new LRP is a good motor also. You'll be in heven when their both broke in. It sounds like your lsn is too lean.

thats why it's idolling fast and dies quickly. Richen up the lsn and then set your idol screw to where you want it. It may go through more plugs this way,
but what's more important, plugs, or long and tight engine life?

That engine is up there in the 25-30 tanks break-in class.
I want one.
I'm still trying to get a couple thru channels.
Anyway, keep us posted, PhilBur.
 
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Yes I do have a STS .28 RB but I have done something to lock it up, so in the mean time I got an Axial, just to have something to run, but now I have the break in issues with it :duh: I should have mentioned that the needle settings on the Axial are stock, should I still try and richen the LSN? The book says to leave them alone til after break in? Thanks for the help.


Phil
 
The LSN will give you more torge the leaner you get, but be carefull not to go too far with it. Start to turn it about 1 hour at a time......It should become easier start as well. Maybe you guys can help me out too.......Anybody else having problems with the one-way bearing and the roto start ? Any advice on a better product ? Any advice would be much appreciated.
 
whats the problem with the one way bearing redsavageman? is it slipping or or they breaking?

if its slipping take it out and clean it, let it dry and replace it. one way bearing don't like afterrun oil etc and this causes them to slip the next time you go to start it.

never broke a one way bearing myself so cant offer advice on that one
 
Hey Phil.
The STS sounds like it's Stuck at TDC (TOP DEAD CENTER)

Just get your heat gun, or desent blow dryer and get that heat sink up to 200-225 degrees to release the piston.

You might want to keep it around to warm up the engine before each start, till it's broke in.
And definately remember to always move your piston to BDC (BOTTOM DEAD CENTER) each time the engine stops to cool.

that way it won't get stuck.

on the axil, how many tanks you got through it?
 
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ALRIGHT!!! I fatten up the LSN about 3/4 of a turn and BINGO!! Finally got the first tank through the engine idiling. One more tank @ idle then two at 1/2 throttle then LOOK OUT!! Thanks for the help DOOB...


Phil
 
Hey phillbur,
I know there's alot of helpfuf advice floating around out here.

But one thing for sure, whenever you make needle adjustments, always make 1/8th turns, each time between adjustments.

This will help you in hearing the effect your having on the engine's behavior, based on your adjustments.
Making adjustments larger than that, makes it too easy to lose track of your desired adjustment.

Doing this will train your ear to better find the "sweet spot" which means the most optimal proformance the motor will give you.
 
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Thanks for all the help, and yes this is the Axail mill. I'll post my progess on the STS in the other thread, I've got the Axail, ready to drive sooo here goes!! Thanks agin for all your help and info.

Phil
 
PhilBurr said:
Thanks for all the help, and yes this is the Axail mill. I'll post my progess on the STS in the other thread, I've got the Axail, ready to drive sooo here goes!! Thanks agin for all your help and info.

Phil
Click to expand...
No problem, Phil.
I'm glad you asked for help.

Let us in on how it comes along.
 
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watch the Axails...both mine seized up during break in ..I finally got them tuned ..and now they rock ..try not to get discouraged ..happened to me and I was ready to switch motors ...takes time to know what symptoms effect different motors..
 
Thanks for the encouragement! I have been driving the truck for awhile now and have noticed that when I get on the throttle the front wheels break loose and the rear wheels seem slow? Is this a engine problem or something to do with the diffs? Thanks for listening guys!!


Phil
 
Hey Phil

The front always tend to pick up off the ground, so front diff is unloading a lot more then the rear. Try thickening up the front diff fluid.
 
Due to the lock centre diff the back wheel should get the same power as the front. If the back does appear to be slow check that you have not stripped a hub or that you aren't missing any drive pins. An easy way to check if something is wrong is to give the car a big push forward and jam the breaks on. The front wheels should lock up. Do the same thing in reverse and the rears should lock up or at least do exactly the same as the front. If they don't you have something wrong in your drive train.
 
hey

Hey Butters


Not 100% but that didn't stop me from jumping it, and breaking a rear dog-bone. So as soon as I finish mounting the hellfire tank in the beast, it will be.


At least mine is running, Sorry to hear about yours. You should really post the pics of your piston and sleeve, I think every one would be shocked that yours only has the breakin tanks and maybe one more though it. And we both broke our motors in the same way for 2 tanks.


vice.jpg



good luck getting a new piston and sleeve, just don't blow this one.
 
Thanks everyone for the info I have two new alloy diffs I'm gonna install soon and see if that works, thanks again.

Phil
 
Swapped out the rear diff and that fixed the problem, can't what to get to the track.. Thanks everyone for all the help..

Phil
 
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