Airbrush set-ups?

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Jr.

Jr.

Well-Known Member
Messages
276
Location
Muskegon Michigan
I've never done it, always rattle cans, but I'm suddenly curious, what are you guys using? Is there some kind of starter I can get into fairly affordably?
 
I do have a good compressor, but it's in my garage, I'd have to run a hard line and another air/water seperator to the house to use it.

The kit you linked looks like it has everything? I just want to do some simple, two tones or stripes or whatever at first
 
yea, all u need is a respirator. it has 3 brushes, they apperar do be different styles. u can find a good kit used for even cheaper on ebay
 
this is a brush
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I use a couple Passche single action airbrushes for main body coverage, and I also have a couple dual action brushes for finer detail work, Harbor Freight tools sells a couple dual actions that work well for most shells we would do...... I spray at about 40psi with most of my stuff... you will want a moisture trap and regulator to get best results.... there are some out there like iwata and others that can set you back 350.00 or more, but I think the cheaper ones would do just fine for our painting we do on shells...........
 
at 25psi I don't think you will get proper atomization of the paint , but what ever works do it....
 
In painting 1:1's, I've found 40 psi and maintaining it at at least 5.5 CFM is pretty critical. Is that the case here? Otherwise I wind up with runs and splatters
 
Yup, the higher the pressure the better the paint and air mix when coming out of the paint nozzle making for less splatter and runs...
with a dual action brush you control the paint flow by how much you allow the needle off its seat, in a single action which is what most rc hobbyists use the air pressure makes the suction better in the bottle allowing more paint to flow...

I have both dual and single action airbrushes and still spray at 40-45 psi minimum air pressure....
 
there is a point where air pressure can be too much, this is why I used to fiddle with paint viscosity and air pressure so much, I settled on 40-45 psi as a good place for most of my painting.... only 1 exception is when I spray the chrome, it is very thin already and I spray it at the recommended 15psi to get best effect.....
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
there is a point where air pressure can be too much, this is why I used to fiddle with paint viscosity and air pressure so much, I settled on 40-45 psi as a good place for most of my painting.... only 1 exception is when I spray the chrome, it is very thin already and I spray it at the recommended 15psi to get best effect.....
Click to expand...
I use an Iwata HP-C Plus dual Action, and I've never painted anything but Acrylic paints. I have to paint in the house, and fumes could be a problem, even though I have an exhaust set-up in the basement window. I haven't been painting for long, and now I want to try these Spaz Stix candy paints, and can't wait to try the Chrome I just got. What do I need to clean the gun with? Should I do the Chrome work first or last? I appreciate any input. I'm retired, and have about 15 new bodies I want to paint, and have a lot of ideas, but not yet enough knowledge.
 
well I have tried the waterbased parma fascolors , but went back to the lacquers sometime back.... if your acrylics are waterbased paints then of course thinning and cleaning should be done with water, but your chrome will probably be lacquer based and should always be backed with waterbased black to get the full chrome effect...
I always spray the chrome last, then back with wb black and then give the paint job a good heavy coat or two of indy silver to make all the colors opaque and non see thru....
I paint in my garage/shop/cave, and use a respirator and have the window open with a fan blowing air out so keep fumes to a min...... you will maybe have to thin some of the paints to get them to spray consistently, just gotta play with it a bit to figure it out.... I mainly use my passche airbrushes to paint rc bodies, and use a dual action to do the finer detail work,
Good Luck with it Greg, post up some pics when ya get one painted, if ya have questions I am usually around.....
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
well I have tried the waterbased parma fascolors , but went back to the lacquers sometime back.... if your acrylics are waterbased paints then of course thinning and cleaning should be done with water, but your chrome will probably be lacquer based and should always be backed with waterbased black to get the full chrome effect...
I always spray the chrome last, then back with wb black and then give the paint job a good heavy coat or two of indy silver to make all the colors opaque and non see thru....
I paint in my garage/shop/cave, and use a respirator and have the window open with a fan blowing air out so keep fumes to a min...... you will maybe have to thin some of the paints to get them to spray consistently, just gotta play with it a bit to figure it out.... I mainly use my passche airbrushes to paint rc bodies, and use a dual action to do the finer detail work,
Good Luck with it Greg, post up some pics when ya get one painted, if ya have questions I am usually around.....
Click to expand...
I bought the Spaz ultimate black backer for the chrome, and thought I'd use the faskolor silver to back everything. So, then I should use lacquer thinner to clean my airbrush after the Spaz paint? I'm going to try some real fire with the Spaz stix colors, and they haven't gotten here yet, but I think they are lacquer based too? Gonna practice on the coke bottle halves first.
 
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