After run oil??

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K

Kevin

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21
Is any one using after run oil?
If so how often?
Where do you put it? take the glow plug out?
In the carb would make more sence but a little more of a pain to take the air cleaner tube off all the time??

Thanks.

Kevin.
 
its a good idea to use aro every time you run your truck so the motor last longer and don't have any dry parts when it first starts .. especialy if the motors still new and has alot of pinch in it. but yes its best to put it through the carb .. but you can put it through the glow plug hole ..if you do that ... make sure there is nothing near the glow plug before you take it out...1 lil spec of dabre can kill a mill in a hurry...it sux and is teadious but its alot better than killing your mill and cant run your truck for awhile isnt it?lol happy bashn..
 
i love ARO. couple drops in the cylinder, couple drops down the carb neck, couple cranks.
 
Nitro fuel naturally attracts moisture so you should always use ARO. I know someone that was using a fuel that said ARO wasnt needed and after not running his truck for a few weeks he discovered the piston and sleeve completely rusted. Take the time to put a few drops in. Its time well spent.
 
Keithv said:
Nitro fuel naturally attracts moisture so you should always use ARO. I know someone that was using a fuel that said ARO wasnt needed and after not running his truck for a few weeks he discovered the piston and sleeve completely rusted. Take the time to put a few drops in. Its time well spent.
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Was this an ABC engine? The piston in these engines is made from an aluminum alloy and the interior of the sleeve is chromium. Both of these metals form a passive oxide layer on the surface that is not effected by water. What he probably saw was the brown residue some fuels leave on the surface of the piston. This is not rust, and doesn't effect the engine.

The parts that will be effected by corrosion in the presence of water are the steel crankshaft and bearings. However, if your fuel contains rust inhibitors, you don't need to worry about them.

Also, a few drops of ARO isn't going to effect anything. A healthy squirt into the crankcase is needed to completely coat the parts.
 
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I'm running 25% Sidewinder and at first i used aro only when i knew that my truck was gonna be sitting for more than a week.

One time i left it standing for about a month without some aro and it fire on the first crank.

So have mixed feelings about it, i just make sure all the fuel in the motor is burnt off after every run.
 
inb4lock said:
Was this an ABC engine? The piston in these engines is made from an aluminum alloy and the interior of the sleeve is chromium. Both of these metals form a passive oxide layer on the surface that is not effected by water. What he probably saw was the brown residue some fuels leave on the surface of the piston. This is not rust, and doesn't effect the engine.

The parts that will be effected by corrosion in the presence of water are the steel crankshaft and bearings. However, if your fuel contains rust inhibitors, you don't need to worry about them.

Also, a few drops of ARO isn't going to effect anything. A healthy squirt into the crankcase is needed to completely coat the parts.
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It was an OS .18TZ. The guy it happened to is pretty good with engines so I have no doubt it was rust. I believe he said the rust was around the sides of the piston on the sleeve as well. Ill see if he still has the pictures and Ill try to post them up.
I use ARO every time I'm done running for the day. I figure why take the chance. The ARO is a lot cheaper then replacing parts on the engine.
 
I always use it after every run, a few drops down the carb and in the glow plug hole, or if my head is very dirty and i cant be bothered to clean it to remove the plug i just quickly unhook the header spring and put a few drops in via the exhaust port, then a couple of pulls on the pull start, BDC and I'm happy.

A couple of pounds for a bottle that goes a long way, is it worth not using it?
 
Keithv said:
It was an OS .18TZ. The guy it happened to is pretty good with engines so I have no doubt it was rust. I believe he said the rust was around the sides of the piston on the sleeve as well. Ill see if he still has the pictures and Ill try to post them up.
Click to expand...

I've seen plenty of people who are pretty good with engines make this mistake. The brown residue is very similar in appearance to rust. However, it can't be. Theses metals (Aluminum and Chromium) can corrode, but the appearance of the corrosion is nothing like iron rust.
 
I've never used ARO in any of my engines. I always run my tank dry.
 
I've never used ARO in my Super Nitro RS4 and have never had any issues with it. It has the stock NitroStar .15 in it and it is still going strong at least 6 years later. I never kept track of how many gallons have been through it, but lets just say it's seen it's fair share of fuel LOL! I keep mine inside the house and I live in a very mild climate so this may contributing factors though. I heard horror stories about how these engines only last a couple gallons and things like that before I got into the hobby but I had, and am still having, a good experience with my car. Everything on the car is original except the heat sink head, 2 speed tranny, and dynamite pipe and I have never replaced anything else except 2 of the belts or had anything break. Heck, even some of the belts are still original and I run it hard on unswept public streets with the belt drive, that's what I call a quality product!. That's part of the reason I stuck with HPI and got my XL. I love the Savage, it makes me wish I had gotten a truck earlier. I have been running some ARO in the k5.9 but not every time I run it. I'm kind of a slacker with the ARO since I never ran it in my car I forget about it sometimes LOL! But I figure half the time is better than never!
 
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MikeK brought up a good point: climate. If you live in a very warm, humid area, there's a better chance of corrosion occurring in the engine. If you're like me and live in a cooler climate where the dewpoint is rarely above 15 degrees C, the chance of water buildup in the engine is much smaller.
 
i use it all the time myself, and especially like it when starting a new engine for the first time, as it lubricates everything and this is important when things are still "tight"..
 
I don't use ARO because sidewinder says I don't have too lmao. If you pull the fuel line at the end of a run and burn off the fuel from the crank case it seems to work fine without it. I have put engines on the shelf for over a year and when opening them up they look just like new. I'm not saying don't use it as I have seen other engines run on different fuel and they do have rust in them. If they do rust, the only part that will is the bearings and crank, the block, rod, piston and sleeve will not rust. If you are going to use ARO put the piston to bdc and lean the truck/engine forwards a bit so the oil goes into the block, not out the exhaust. Another thing to consider is a few drops won't cut it if your trying to lube up all the parts, with the truck/engine leaned forwards spin it over a few times, that way the oil will coat the bearings and crank as sitting level all the oil just sits in the bottom of the case and does nothing.
 
Purenitro said:
I don't use ARO because sidewinder says I don't have too lmao. If you pull the fuel line at the end of a run and burn off the fuel from the crank case it seems to work fine without it. I have put engines on the shelf for over a year and when opening them up they look just like new. I'm not saying don't use it as I have seen other engines run on different fuel and they do have rust in them. If they do rust, the only part that will is the bearings and crank, the block, rod, piston and sleeve will not rust. If you are going to use ARO put the piston to bdc and lean the truck/engine forwards a bit so the oil goes into the block, not out the exhaust. Another thing to consider is a few drops won't cut it if your trying to lube up all the parts, with the truck/engine leaned forwards spin it over a few times, that way the oil will coat the bearings and crank as sitting level all the oil just sits in the bottom of the case and does nothing.
Click to expand...

yes thats exactly what i do actually when starting a engine for the first time, great advice!!
 
Purenitro said:
I don't use ARO because sidewinder says I don't have too lmao. If you pull the fuel line at the end of a run and burn off the fuel from the crank case it seems to work fine without it. I have put engines on the shelf for over a year and when opening them up they look just like new. I'm not saying don't use it as I have seen other engines run on different fuel and they do have rust in them. If they do rust, the only part that will is the bearings and crank, the block, rod, piston and sleeve will not rust. If you are going to use ARO put the piston to bdc and lean the truck/engine forwards a bit so the oil goes into the block, not out the exhaust. Another thing to consider is a few drops won't cut it if your trying to lube up all the parts, with the truck/engine leaned forwards spin it over a few times, that way the oil will coat the bearings and crank as sitting level all the oil just sits in the bottom of the case and does nothing.
Click to expand...


Nice, when I'm being lazy and putting ARO in through the exhaust port i have to lean the truck forward in order to get it in, i put the piston at BDC first too so nice to know I'm already doing the right thing, in a way lol

Another part of my after run procedure that iv been doing is to put the piston at BDC as soon as iv finished running and burnt off fuel etc before it gets a chance to cool, then ARO when i get home, when i fit my engines i make a small mark on the edge of my flywheel put the piston at BDC then fit my flywheel so the mark lines up to a remembered point on the side of the crankcase, my point being the centre cooling fin on the left (fuel tank side) of the block by the front bearing, so all i have to do as soon as I'm done running is turn the engine over slowly with the pullstart and a screwdriver handle (it is hot lol) on the flywheel to slow it down and stop it going past BDC till my points line up and i know I'm at BDC without removing anything, just something i remember from working on big diesel engines years ago, there was often marks on the flywheel or crank front pulley indicating BDC TDC and various degrees BTDC, ATDC and BBDC ABDC etc.
 
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