17mm mod. How about this?

[Jelle318]

Surfing the web like a madman yesterday trying to find a cheap 17mm hex mod for the Savage. Found this

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/...all-a-proper-17mm-hex-and-nut-on-savage-flux/

Looks promising. Any ideas?

Thank you,
Jelle

 

[fz1dave]

I have not stripped a wheel since I was a complete newbie and had the original t maxx. I don't know how good that is going to work but you should be fine with the stock savage stuff. Make sure to tighten down the flanged nut properly. If the nylon wears out get new ones. I'm not sure about all savages but the xss comes with reverse thread on one side and that helps too.

 

[Wilson]

I have bothv14mm and 17mm wheels and I have not had any trouble at all with the 14mm. Just make sure the wheels are good and tight and I can't see you having much of any trouble with them.

Someone correct me if I am wrong but if you do indeed want the 17mm hexes why couldn't you just buy some standard hpi 17mm hexes and just slap them on the axles and go? I don't really understand the whole reasoning behind the whole conversion kit. That's all I do when I go from running my 14mm and 17mm wheels.

 

[X]

I have bothv14mm and 17mm wheels and I have not had any trouble at all with the 14mm. Just make sure the wheels are good and tight and I can't see you having much of any trouble with them.

Someone correct me if I am wrong but if you do indeed want the 17mm hexes why couldn't you just buy some standard HPI 17mm hexes and just slap them on the axles and go? I don't really understand the whole reasoning behind the whole conversion kit. That's all I do when I go from running my 14mm and 17mm wheels.

You're right. Many of the savages come with both the 14mm and 17mm hexes and do just that. I've always been fine with the stock hexes, never stripped a wheel. But some people like the truggy style wheel hexes, just not sure why from a cost versus performance perspective.

 

[olds97_lss]

I've stripped quite a few 14mm hex's. The mod they show in that thread will egg out the shaft/hub after a while and cause a lot of slop. The nut on the end will help. My revo had the same issue with traxxas hubs. The threads of the axle wear away at the inside of the hub causing slop.

Also, I'v snapped off 2 savage axles at the pin before while bashing, so drilling that hole out larger could cause your axle to be more likely to snap.

If I had an alternative to the HPI hex that had sharper corners, I'd take it. The soft corners on the HPI 17mm hex can tear up a wheel hex if you get a stubborn nut due to a banged up axle end or difficult thread lock. I've done that too on my revo as I was using HPI E-savage 17mm hex's (same ID of traxxas) with the HPI flange nut. NOw on my revos, I buy the traxxas splined hub, cut off the threaded part and use the HPI flanged nut. The TRX hub has sharper corners on them. So, with that combo, I do away with the eventual slop and I get a sharp cornered/tight fitting hub for the wheels.

I still have the standard HPI 17mm hubs with flange nut on my savage-x though. Don't know of a better alternative without swapping out the axles themselves for stubs. Even though, I don't know of stubs that can be used with the super HD dogbones... so I'll stick with the soft cornered HPI hex's for now.

 

[Nihal]

I have not stripped a wheel since I was a complete newbie and had the original t maxx. I don't know how good that is going to work but you should be fine with the stock Savage stuff. Make sure to tighten down the flanged nut properly. If the nylon wears out get new ones. I'm not sure about all savages but the xss comes with reverse thread on one side and that helps too.

I had my flanged nut striped on my savage x 4.6 and waiting for the replacement to come. Still wondering how to get the strip nut out!! Sorry still brand new newbie!!

 

[fz1dave]

The flange nut stripped? Ive never done that. To be clear ive had the flange nut come loose and the 14 mm hex spin and strip the wheel. Since those days ive tightened down the flange nuts pretty hard and never stripped one. If the flange nut is stripped you may want to check the threads on the axle too. Also make sure that you are putting the flange nut on the correct side. In addition you may want to check the axle pins that the 14/17 mm hex slides over. Replace those if they are starting to bend.

 

[Nihal]

The flange nut stripped? Ive never done that. To be clear ive had the flange nut come loose and the 14 mm hex spin and strip the wheel. Since those days ive tightened down the flange nuts pretty hard and never stripped one. If the flange nut is stripped you may want to check the threads on the axle too. Also make sure that you are putting the flange nut on the correct side. In addition you may want to check the axle pins that the 14/17 mm hex slides over. Replace those if they are starting to bend.

Ok maybe i might have stated it wrongly. Its not the thread that is strip but the outer part. I'm unable to unscrew the nut as its slipping.

 

[Jelle318]

I know that feeling nihal but what you need is this

 

[olds97_lss]

Depending on the wheel, you may be pretty screwed and will have to destroy the wheel to get the axle off, or destroy the axle to get the wheel off. If you can get at it with vice grips, try that. Or, you can try and dremel through the nut if you can get at it.

 

[Jelle318]

I think he means that the m5 nut with a washer is stripped and the wheel hex thing behind the wheel is fine. To remove it you need one of those things I posted above. works like a charm.

 

[Nihal]

I think he means that the m5 nut with a washer is stripped and the wheel hex thing behind the wheel is fine. To remove it you need one of those things I posted above. works like a charm.

you are right. Will try it but I'm waiting for the replacement to come in first. Thanks man.

 

[fz1dave]

Try getting it off and inspecting your truck. Something else might be broken or worn out and you may want to order it now rather than wait. Good luck.