Seems at this point in the conversation you just wish to be argumentative, it really does not matter how long it may take, just that it is possible for fuel to be contaminated even in the original container, Point is to take precautions and try to keep the fuel from going bad, the cost of it...
Not necessarily so, plastic is porous and will actually allow microscopic moisture thru the actual container itself....
as I said metal containers are better at keeping moisture at bay and keeping fuels fresher, I squeeze my plastic fuel containers of as much air as I can before putting in the...
Condensation that forms on the inside of storage containers is caused by water vapor in the air that is trapped within the container when it is sealed. ... When a container is placed in a refrigerator, it begins to cool from the outside to the interior, making the inside surface of the container...
The way I understand, LRP did go out of business and was brought back by the owner..... not sure on the circumstances surrounding it all but they do have an active website and are taking orders for stuff....
https://www.lrp.cc/en/
I forgot to mention that you are most likely going to want to go with a hard pinion for that spur, is your motor shaft 5mm if so order a 1.0 module pinion in your choice of tooth counts for that spur set......
http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/flux.html
So you saw this unit, it looks to come with everything to replace your spur and slipper hub and pad with better stuff over stock..... I would also get a new spring and nut to go with it and go with that..... I have the steel 48 tooth RR spur on...
Everything I read and people I have talked to say differently, they say to store at 80% of total voltage or even fully charged if you plan on running them within a week or less.....
At any rate I am sure there is alot of conflicting information out there, this is the main reason I have waited...
I just got into LiPo batteries awhile back, I currently have 3 all 2s and so far they deliver good power and runtimes... I have a gens-are-spammers 5000 mah 50c with removable leads which I like alot and 2 GoldBat 2s 80C I have been trying from a newcomer and member of our FB page, Great prices and easy...
sorry if I seem that way to you, I don't take happy pills, but it does seem you need to be led to the exact thing you are asking about.... and yes the collets are basically the same as the knurled ones, just get the smooth collets they will work fine...... the way you are going to adjust the...
Throttle mixer and Bellcrank are the same part, if you bothered to look at the pics I posted you can see the ball and ballcup go to the mixer/bellcrank..... see the orange ballcup, see the shiny thing it is attached to
?? that is the ball which is screwed into the mixer/bellcrank... and I did...
also be aware there is very little stress on the throttle servo horn and it is ok for it to be plastic, in fact most servos come with a few linkage horns that very well may fit what you need... Mine is the horn that came with a servo set I just used what I had on hand....
You will need the sliders and linkages you listed above, those knurled collars are ok but they will need to be setscrewed down, use locktite on those setscrews also they will vibrate right out and be gone, just get a short piece of 2/56 or 2mm allthread rod and make your linkage to the carb...
you do not need to program it, it just plugs into the receiver like always, you may need a glitch buster to help avoid brownouts to the receiver...... you also may want to set endpoints to keep it from stalling the servo which causes heat and can damage it.....
Just getting into LiPo batteries, I use a LiPo bag and charge in an ammobox for safety....... by the look of your rig I would say start from square 1 and go from there... sux to lose your stuff but at least you saved your house....