Looks to me like the slipper was loose and caused the spur to melt out the center, that is why i like the steel spurs, and I also lock down my slipper, you would be surprised to learn it will still slip even when locked down.... as for the 2 speed adjuster I have to ask what allen are you using...
http://www.motorsaverfilters.com/savage.htm
Lots of people swear by that brand.... I find most any 1/8 scale big block type will work well if you keep it clean...
yes the steering post attached to the lower front skid plate appears loose, tighten it up, screws loosen all the time unless you use blue locktite to keep them secure......
Well they are not alot different than electrics, mainly just the added nitro engine, tank, fuelines and clutch that electrics don't have, you can get these manuals printed so you have a hard copy by most copy shops just download them to a flash drive and take it to one..... main thing is take...
I have to ask before we get too far into this, Do you have any mechanical experience at all??
if not the learning curve is pretty steep but with a bit of time and the right tools and a desire to fix this rig yourself it will get easier as you go along... are there any local hobby shops...
You can find the manuals online right at this forum, https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/hpi-savage/ they are stickied at the top of the forum pages you are looking for
There are SEVERAL Iterations of the savage platform and the one you have looks to be an early 25 model with some owner...
the spring is located in the round black object attached to the servo output splines, take off the linkage and remove the screw in the middle of the round saver you may have to wiggle it off the splines, (make a note or take a pic of where the linkage is when the wheels are centered so you can...
That diagram above gives a good view of that servo saver and how to take it apart.... you can tighten up the spring coil by closing down the gap and installing it back into the housing then reinstalling it on the vehicle.....
Looks like a combination of a stock servo and a weak servo saver spring, you can get around that by installing the later steering system and a better servo, for servos I have been using powerhd servos lately and they are great... one final question is are you still using the 4 cell battery...
I repaired the mounting tab on my MMT tank with a piece of aluminum angle drilled to fit the mounting post and sealed up the tear with Plumbers Goop after I BRAIN FARTED and hit a light pole WFO with the left front, same stuff I mount tires with and in 3 years it has not broken away or leaked a...
what is too much ? I paid 120 plus shipping to my house for my basket case Savage and ended up putting about another 200 or so into it before I ever played with it, if I were to sell it what could I expect to get for it??? I would want at least $350.00 plus shipping costs which depending on...
A bit of teflon or graphite dry lube works pretty well, some use chain lube also, I prefer graphite dry lube as it does not attract dirt to the joints.....
My Savage has the opposite problem, it rides so much on the back wheels I barely ever get to turn it... tighten the slipper nut all the way and see if that helps at all...
No, that is only dealing with the top of the shock, where you need clearance is at the bottom Moving the top is going to affect how soft or hard the suspension feels on compression and rebound....
Doesn't look like Duratrax offers a deeper offset, I know the RPM Wheels come in 1/2 inch offsets called the stablemaxx series but you will have to mount your tires onto the wheels...I am running a set of RPM Stablemaxx wheels in 17mm hex on my Savage with ProLine Mulchers mounted on them...
Not much you can do without using extended hexes and those are bad for the axle bearing in general, but those tires are HUGE for a stock type savage......