Your sarcasm is noted:rolleyes::rolleyes:, be it luck or good driving either way I check them between fuelups and bashes and make sure they don't work out of place, yes I am old and picky about my toys, maintenance is key to getting enjoyment out of them, when I go bashing I take a few rigs so I...
well I guess I did, but you were asking about all the blingy parts so I said that was a good thing, it is not a part that is exposed too extreme forces so it is not a bad idea , I still am using the stock plastic parts in most all areas of my savage.....
I do not remember telling you that alloy is better, you are the one who wants all the shiny aluminum parts for your rig, I have stated time and again only certain parts are needed to be upgraded with alloy... I agree with X saying all you need are bearings in the steering cranks to make it...
guess I am either lucky or just good, in almost 5 years I have not bent even 1 hingepin, I have crashed flipped barrel rolled and just about every other type of crash and it is holding strong all with stock X suspension to boot...... I did zip tie the bumper so it does not spread too much, if it...
They are all hardened to some degree or another, the difference is in how they are made, Sintered are basically powdered metal pressed into shape using high pressure, Machined are just that machined from a blank of steel then hardened, you have to understand that BP gears come in both styles...
Well just FYI, the original Savage and all the current ones are all made in china so buying parts made there should present no problem.......
Just because a company is based in the USA doesn't mean it is actually built here, just look at Traxxas , everything they have is made in the far east...
Well considering the original poster has not been on since 2011 I have doubts about you hearing from him, but miracles do happen so hold out for the hope.......
I hope you realize this thread has not had a post in 10 years??? I seriously doubt you will get an answer, but this is here because the information is still worth having in case someone wishes to source all the needed parts and build their own CEN Diffs for their rig.....
Posting in a different place has zero bearing on if your post will be seen as the new post icon will still show your new post to membership......
and you should include a link so others can see what you are thinking of getting......
HOLY ENGINE STRESS BATMAN !!!!!!!!!!! I fuel my rig, when is cold I plug exhaust with a finger, click the roto unit a time or 2 and install my igniter and start the rig, doing it the way you doing it it is a wonder you do not have a 2 piece connecting rod...... SMH !!!!!!
I think that first comment is from a retailers point of view, and of course there is nothing wrong with recommending those gears but as I stated I do believe the Flux did come with one or the other version of the "bp" diffs..
I have a .32 Axial in my Savage X and am using the stock 43/13...
because manufacturers mold the parts on trees to save materials and to group like parts in one tree for convenience and easy locating, you will find this in most R/C models...
https://www.amazon.com/HPI-Racing-100949-Shock-Parts/dp/B001QLJKS0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542848914&sr=8-1&keywords=hpi-100949
there are the parts you are looking to get, it contains all the rod ends and shock ends as well as some shock parts...... and if you had clicked then scrolled down a...
85050 is the tree part number for the rod ends and assorted shock parts on it, unfortunately you need to order the complete parts tree as they do not seem to sell the ends separately......
Well to be honest I am not sure of the size of either part or where to source any new ones. maybe try to locate the engine parts diagram and try to find something that matches....
See page 32 of the linked manual to find the pin and spring part numbers 15130 A and B that are used by the 3.0...