I run the stock Savage flywheel, Dynamite Max-Life shoes, Mugen 1.0mm springs, Mugen clutch nut, and HPI 15t clutch bell on my Picco P3. This setup works well, 3 gallons in and I haven't had to mess with it at all. You'll want to use a larger CB if you are running stock diffs.
In my experience, the HD cups have the same hardness as the standard black cups. They will wear just as fast. The best way to deal with cup wear is to run a dry lubricant in the cups. Graphite or Molybdenum Disulfide work well. LCG TVPs also significantly reduce center cup wear, as the...
The information in the original post is pretty accurate, but not the whole story.
Normal R/C applications will not get either material hot enough to cause a change in properties.
This is true, but the water absorption is minimal if a good sealant is used. Unfortunately, many R/C...
Running the engine right out of the box is definitely better than the slobbering rich idle break-in. Not ideal, but not the worst thing you can do either.
There's plenty of support for that. You mentioned a few points yourself. If the engine doesn't reach operating temperature, the sleeve doesn't expand sufficiently, and much more stress is placed on engine components. That is backed up by both theory and experience. It's also logical to say that...
There really isn't any evidence to suggest that multiple, very short heating and cooling cycles actually has an effect on the properties of the engine metals. Still, a lot of people swear by the heat cycle method.
Personally, I don't use the heat cycle process. I used to, but I didn't notice...
X2
Any dry lubricant will work well. Graphite is good, molybdenum disulfide is even better. I personally use a graphite spray lubricant, which is basically fine graphite powder suspended in an isopropanol/acetone mixture. Spray goes on, and the liquids evaporate, leaving a film of graphite.
They might, measure the inside diameter and thickness of the o-ring and check the store for one of that size.
When the engine is running, the fuel tank is always at a pressure higher than atmospheric, so you're not going to be sucking in air with a bad o-ring. However, you are going to be...
The ribbed pipe is very loud, which gives the illusion of more power. It actually doesn't perform very well in comparison to buggy pipes such as the 086 and 053.
I wish HPI would just use a better aluminum alloy instead of making their butter soft plate thicker and heavier.
3mm IRC plate is indestructible and much lighter in weight than this.
MikeK brought up a good point: climate. If you live in a very warm, humid area, there's a better chance of corrosion occurring in the engine. If you're like me and live in a cooler climate where the dewpoint is rarely above 15 degrees C, the chance of water buildup in the engine is much smaller.
I've seen plenty of people who are pretty good with engines make this mistake. The brown residue is very similar in appearance to rust. However, it can't be. Theses metals (Aluminum and Chromium) can corrode, but the appearance of the corrosion is nothing like iron rust.
Was this an ABC engine? The piston in these engines is made from an aluminum alloy and the interior of the sleeve is chromium. Both of these metals form a passive oxide layer on the surface that is not effected by water. What he probably saw was the brown residue some fuels leave on the surface...
I almost never clean my truck completely. If a particular area gets very heavily soiled, I will clean it with a toothbrush soaked in pure methanol. Methanol is quite effective at breaking up caked on dirt due to its low surface tension. It is a terrible solvent for oil residues as it is polar...
I think you mean increased spool up time. A bigger/heavier tire + wheel will have a higher moment of inertia, and thus require more engine power and time to accelerate.
That said, I agree with your analysis. Bigger/heavier tires mean less responsive throttle, braking, and steering. They also...