Linkage problem?

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pinkducky

Active Member
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115
Well I just got my first Savage XL! I got it used here and it's in great shape with a pico engine. Anyways, when I first fired it up, it went full bore and took off! I quickly put the brakes on and that killed the engine. I took off the filter and looked in the carb and it was open @ 50%, so this explains why it took off.

So I readjusted the linkage and carb opening to 1mm gap as suggested by the manual. It's idling now but whenever I hit the brakes, it killed the engine. Hitting the brakes shut off the carb completely. Also, after I hit the brakes, it messed up with my carb gap again. I have to keep on readjusting the gap using my radio throttle settings and it doesn't want to stay at 1mmm, this usually happens when I hit the brakes.

What am I missing here? Do I have a bad servo, bad linkage? I am confused! Any advise is greatly appreciated! Thanks guys! Savage Flux sounds pretty good just about now.
 
there is a screw on the side of the carb that is used to adjust the gap. i like to set it with my radio at full brake while the engine is off . the screw will be the lowest one on the carb and is usually on the same side as the hsn
 
if you could take pics of your linkage setup that would help greatly, here is a shot of mine to help you better understand where abouts you should be. I would take your throttle linkage off and close the slide with your finger to see where your gap is, if its closed all the way take your finger off the slide and turn your idle scew clockwise to obtain that 1mm gap, then re-adjust your throttle linkage for length.

DSCF2435.jpg


in case anyone is wondering from the pictures the collars clear the linkage rods in every way, no touching and no bending of my linkage, its all straight on. I have since upgraded my servo to a 645mg for throttle, not the best but good enough until I get another digi. used latex rubber bands for throttle return and shortened up the fuel tube for break pressure, just so you guys don't pick me apart lol
 
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Here's my snapshot. I think the settings look "Factory", but when I applied brakes, it shuts off the carb completely thus killing the engine.

IMG_0246.jpg
 
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pinkducky said:
Here's my snapshot. I think the settings look "Factory", but when I applied brakes, it shuts off the carb completely thus killing the engine.

IMG_0246.jpg
Click to expand...

are you at full brake in that pic? caz thats close to how the gap should look at full brake. as mentioned, if that pic is at full brake, try opening the gap a tiny bit via the idle screw as previously mentioned.

also, can you take a similar pic like you have but looking more at the mill/spur? just curious why you have that extreme angle on the linkage from your trottle-mixer to your slide carb 😛eace:
 
frddyj said:
are you at full brake in that pic? caz thats close to how the gap should look at full brake. as mentioned, if that pic is at full brake, try opening the gap a tiny bit via the idle screw as previously mentioned.

also, can you take a similar pic like you have but looking more at the mill/spur? just curious why you have that extreme angle on the linkage from your trottle-mixer to your slide carb 😛eace:
Click to expand...

No this is neutral. At full brake the gap closes out completely. Not sure why it's at an angle. I was curious myself, it was like that when I got it a few days ago.
 
pinkducky said:
No this is neutral. At full brake the gap closes out completely. Not sure why it's at an angle. I was curious myself, it was like that when I got it a few days ago.
Click to expand...


ok bud, thats your problem. apply full brake with the filter off & adjust your idle gap by loosening your idle screw till its open about 1mm at full brake.

also, look at the picture of AJ's linkage a.k.a. finesse, that he posted above. see how his linkage is in a perfect straight line as his carb? thats how you want it so id doesnt strain the slide carb. I'm talkin about the linkage from the throttle-mixer swivel to the ball on the carb slide.
 
pinkducky said:
No this is neutral. At full brake the gap closes out completely. Not sure why it's at an angle. I was curious myself, it was like that when I got it a few days ago.
Click to expand...


ok bud, thats your problem. apply full brake with the filter off & adjust your idle gap by loosening your idle screw till its open about 1mm at full brake.

also, look at the picture of AJ's linkage a.k.a. finesse, that he posted above. see how his linkage is in a perfect straight line as his carb? thats how you want it so id doesnt strain the slide carb. I'm talkin about the linkage from the throttle-mixer swivel to the ball on the carb slide. fyi finesse has the same mill as you so your linkage should look the same at that point.
 
frddyj said:
ok bud, thats your problem. apply full brake with the filter off & adjust your idle gap by loosening your idle screw till its open about 1mm at full brake.

also, look at the picture of AJ's linkage a.k.a. finesse, that he posted above. see how his linkage is in a perfect straight line as his carb? thats how you want it so id doesnt strain the slide carb. I'm talkin about the linkage from the throttle-mixer swivel to the ball on the carb slide.
Click to expand...

OK thanks I will try that. How do I make it straight? Is it as simple as loosening a screw and readjusting it. Thanks for your help. I really appreciated people here!
 
the pinch bolt under the carb. you have to loosen it and knock out both sides then the carb will come loose


AJ stole your pic for him hope you don't mind!

you want red and black lines to be parallel as you can Green marks is the pinch bolt.. Aj could get his a lil better too
forthread.jpg


EDIT: Here's yours line up red and green all the linkage in the orange don't matter at all. Adress this first then get your gap set. use the end points on yor transmitter to adjust how far the carb opens at WOT too. you don't want to over pull it.
edittohispic.jpg
 
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Its not the carb thats out of line its the throttle linkage on the carb itself. There is a small set screw on the opposite side of the linkage ball. Loosen that and turn the linkage slightly so it lines up. Be careful not to overtighten the set screw though because that linkage is very thin and it cracks easily. Hope this helps.
 
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Keithv said:
Its not the carb thats out of line its the throttle linkage on the carb itself. There is a small set screw on the opposite side of the linkage ball. Loosen that and turn the linkage slightly so it lines up. Be careful not to overtighten the set screw though because that linkage is very thin and it cracks easily. Hope this helps.
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very good point keith. id still like to see a better pic of the mill/spur area. reason i say is caz if you look closely at the 2 pics below, it looks like the ball link is not to far off in both pics to cause that extreme of an angle.

could just be the picture-angle tho. nice job on the linkage aj.

Bankrupter said:
the pinch bolt under the carb. you have to loosen it and knock out both sides then the carb will come loose


AJ stole your pic for him hope you don't mind!

you want red and black lines to be parallel as you can Green marks is the pinch bolt.. Aj could get his a lil better too
forthread.jpg


EDIT: Here's yours line up red and green all the linkage in the orange don't matter at all. Adress this first then get your gap set. use the end points on yor transmitter to adjust how far the carb opens at WOT too. you don't want to over pull it.
edittohispic.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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It looks like if its just rotated forward it will take the stress off the linkage and help the carb slide freely.
 
there is a set screw on that ball collar at the end of the slide, simply loosen it and turn the collar until your rod is straight.
 
having difficulty reaching it because it's at the bottom on the opposite end, I tried flipping the truck over and still can't reach it because it's at a weird angle. What size is the set screw btw?
 
I use my ball end for height and the carb for angle. make sure you go the right way with it. My Picco carb has locked up on me twice now and its not a fun fix... tooth paste and time... get the angles right the first time for sure... I found the hard way a picco carb does not need much to get mad at you. pull the 4 bolts under it and do the adjustments with it mocked up in the right place. Makes access to them easy.
 
Bankrupter said:
I use my ball end for height and the carb for angle. make sure you go the right way with it. My Picco carb has locked up on me twice now and its not a fun fix... tooth paste and time... get the angles right the first time for sure... I found the hard way a picco carb does not need much to get mad at you. pull the 4 bolts under it and do the adjustments with it mocked up in the right place. Makes access to them easy.
Click to expand...

Boy! this sounds scary...
 
Try with the small allen key first. You should be able to get at the set screw with the fuel tank out. Just loosen it a little and you will be able to rotate the carb linkage so that the ball is more horizontal. Start from there and you should be fine.
 
Keithv said:
Try with the small allen key first. You should be able to get at the set screw with the fuel tank out. Just loosen it a little and you will be able to rotate the carb linkage so that the ball is more horizontal. Start from there and you should be fine.
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Ok, will try that. Appreciate your help Keithv!
 
pinkducky said:
Boy! this sounds scary...
Click to expand...

Not scary just 60 for a new carb. All my heights were perfect too aliment good just ate itself apart. Thats why I said get it right if not get ready to by a new one. If you move the ball only make sure it don't pull the slide at any angle. Moving the ball is more for height of the linkage. Yours is to far right so you have to come with it anyways. but just don't use it to get the linkage to look parallel. Just for the link to be flat with the carb. Use the carb to come to the angle of the mixer pull arm. you want 90 degrees both ways (square and plum) judging from the angle on the ball I don't think you will get a allan in there coming from the side. if you have a cheapo you can cut down Id do it.

Ok think you'll be fine in the end and good luck. I normaly don't post on issues like this. I only came out do to eating picco carbs myself and knowing the ease of it...
 
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I was able to reach the set screw with a smaller "L" wrench but unfortunately the wrench was too small. I think I need a 1.5mm size. I will try again later on today or tomorrow after I run down to my LHS for the tool. I am going to try and rotate the carb linkage ball first. Thanks for checking Bankrupter, you guys are awesome!
 
I bought a set of allen keys from lowes that has all the sizes you need for the trucks and I think it was under $10
 
I tried to find a link for you but they don't list it on their site. Home Depot has a similar set. Definitely cheaper then the LHS
 
Ok guys, I think I did it! I did as keithv said. I loosen the carb ball set screw and gave it a little turn to the left. It's as straight as I could get it to go. Have a look at the pictures and tell me what you guys think?

Thank you all here for great support! This forum rocks!

IMG_0247.jpg


IMG_0248.jpg
 
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who sealed that carb ? Id tell you to give it a slight twist now but then saw the RTV. Should be close enough. If you ever have the carb not open when you hit the throttle stop then and there and get it dead on.. How's the carb opening at full brake got that all set ?
 
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