OWB shot after third tank!!!??

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BIGFOOT1979

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Hey guys, got a problem with my XL i haven't even broken in the engine fully on third tank and i think my OWB is shot, when i use the roto-starter it will cetch once, maybe twice and then sounds like it free wheels, I removed the glow plug and tried to see if i had internal problem and it cranked fine, Re-installed glow plug and same problem as before? OWB? Thanks for any replies!
 
Sounds like the exact problem on the F engines. The OWB is internal and they don't like all the oil from the fuel. So they don't last long.

You can either replace it or take it out and clean it with nitro cleaner or break cleaner which will temporally fix it. Another great thing to do to help this engine is to crack the glow plug upon original start up and get it firing then tighten the plug again and run.

Once the engine is wormed up it should start fine from there on for the rest of the bash/race session.
 
Can i just put a pull start on it? if so where can i get one? Thanks guys I'm almost second guessing buying this thing i should have bought a flux
 
Yes you can add a pull start to it. I'm not sure which one though. Someone whould know this.

You will be happy with the Nitro version, they are a great truck but have a few things to work out like everything else. There's always ways to improve things.
 
larsenracing said:
Sounds like the exact problem on the F engines. The OWB is internal and they don't like all the oil from the fuel. So they don't last long.
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Hey guys. Just a small note. The internal OWB is on the K series. The F you will find is easier to get to as it is on the outside just behind the rotostart plate. I just replaced mine on my 4.1.

It is a bit odd for a OWB to go that early however. Must have been a defect. I just changed the original one on the 4.1 that's been there since 2004, and the internal one on my K4.6 is still fine after almost 2 gallons through it.

I say toss on a new one and go out and have some fun!!
 
GT-squared said:
The internal OWB is on the K series. The F you will find is easier to get to as it is on the outside just behind the rotostart plate.
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Oops your correct GT, My bad I had them mixed up, sorry for the confusion and thanks for fixing my GT. You are correct that it is a bit odd to see it go so soon however I have seen them go bad very quickely expecially durring break-in and with a Rolo start.
 
the K4.6's pull works on that mill. you need to heat it and crack the plug on that mill or you will snap ropes too
 
Well i don't think the OWB is at fault, i took the rear cover off and the hex shaft sticking out gave me something so i could turn the engine over, well right away i noticed alot of resistance at TDC, so i pulled GP,turned it again same deal sometimes i could turn it over 5-6 times before i would feel the resistance to the point it felt almost "locked up" I took the engine apart and everthing looked fine?
 
I say clean it all up and throw it back together if everything looks good and see what it does. On a side note as you have it apart do what I say in post #2 and clean the OWB whale your in there. Let us know how she runs.
 
I agree with larsen, just make sure you have a good look around inside the crankcase for signs of damage, metal fragments etc. If you can rotate the engine 5 or 6 times before it almost locks up, then it could be something floating round in there and locking up the main bearing maybe ?? :dunno:

Let us know how it goes.
 
Well ive put the engine back together i didnt see any damage to anything? It turns over fine now!? anyways it's back in the truck and ive tried starting it i had a cut sock over the head and the hair dryer out oh and by the way I HAD to crack the glowplug to get to even turn over but it's still not starting sounded like it was a couple times but no go, I'm charging the Roto-start battery now so hopefully i will give it another try here in a few! wish me luck!
 
If I haven't said so already, Welcome to the Forum!!

Have you adjusted the needles at all? If not done already, you need to start leaning out the HSN. With the needle settings set so rich, and the constant turning the engine over, the engine may be getting flooded. A heavily flooded engine can actually cause the engine to lock up also. lean out the HSN about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, crack the glow plug and try to start the engine. Break in on the nitro motors are frustrating, but once done you will have a blast. Keep us posted
 
Well I'm ****ed the roto won't even work now, and the setting are at stock needles are flush it's not fuel locked trust me i found that one out after trying to start it the first time!! shot out a bunch of fuel!! looks like drill time!
 
I'm curious about a couple of guys mentioning cracking the GP a little when trying to start the motor. It would seem to me this could only hinder trying to start it. Granted, it will turn over much easier, however, you need as much compression as possible to fire properly. Compression means heat. If your rotostart can not turn over a cold engine, there has to be a problem somewhere no? I could understand a little more difficluty cranking a warmed up engine when all is expanded and compression is at it's highest, but why cold?

Can someone shed a light on this for me? I must be missing something.
 
BIGFOOT1979 said:
Hey guys, got a problem with my XL i haven't even broken in the engine fully on third tank and i think my OWB is shot, when i use the roto-starter it will cetch once, maybe twice and then sounds like it free wheels, I removed the glow plug and tried to see if i had internal problem and it cranked fine, Re-installed glow plug and same problem as before? OWB? Thanks for any replies!
Click to expand...
heard this a lot with the xl, first thing i did when i got my xl was to seal the motor with copper rtv, back plate and carb,you may also want to check your manifold seal, if its not good and tight ,oil will leak off into the OWB causing it to slip, seen alot of ppl ( including my self) use two springs to fasten manifold to the block.
 
AllanQ said:
Lean out the HSN
Click to expand...

+1 on that ^

GT-squared said:
I'm curious about a couple of guys mentioning cracking the GP a little when trying to start the motor. It would seem to me this could only hinder trying to start it. Granted, it will turn over much easier, however, you need as much compression as possible to fire properly. Compression means heat. If your rotostart can not turn over a cold engine, there has to be a problem somewhere no? I could understand a little more difficluty cranking a warmed up engine when all is expanded and compression is at it's highest, but why cold?

Can someone shed a light on this for me? I must be missing something.
Click to expand...


A glow engine does not need alot of compression to start it. It relies on the heat from the glow igniter/ plug to get things going instead. The seal between piston and cylinder is achieved by a tapered section at the top of the cylinder (AKA pinch). When an engine is cold and the metal is contracted, the pinch is very tight, especially with a new engine. If you loosen the GP very slightly, you are helping to overcome the higher compression. A new engine however will still be very tight at TDC because of the amount of "pinch". You can help make things even easier by heating up the outside of the engine with a hair drier. This will expand the cylinder enough so that the piston is able to get to TDC without over stressing the con rod.

Hope this helps. or maybe someone else can explain it better.
 
Hey guy's finally got some time to mess with my XL this past weekend my brother in-law brought some battery packs for the roto, I had a sock on the head and heated it up with a hair dryer and we had ignition i ran 4 tanks through it yesterday! It seemed much easier to start after i dissasembled the motor for some reason? Oh well she is runnin just need to tune it's too darn cold out to jack with it for too long!!!
 
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