My First Problem - Clutch???

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ok did you check all of you drive cups to see if the set screws are all still there? they have a habbit of falling out if they are not locktited in place (btw it is a real good idea to make sure that every screw/bolt that goes into metal has locktite on it)
 
ok did you check all of you drive cups to see if the set screws are all still there? they have a habbit of falling out if they are not locktited in place (btw it is a real good idea to make sure that every screw/bolt that goes into metal has locktite on it)
I second that, nothing is worse that being shut down because of a screw missing. I've lost the set screws on two seperate occasions. First time I should have learned, second time MAKE PARKER ANGRY!
 
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I second that, nothing is worse that being shut down because of a screw missing. I've lost the set screws on two seperate occasions. First time I should have learned, second time MAKE PARKER ANGRY!

ebay has stock screw kits for savy cheap.

great to have around for sure.

or an extra truck to steal from , lol
 
I've got plenty of extra set screws now, trust me. An extra truck would be nice, but then I would have twice the frustration! I can't seem to keep one running. LOL. A screw kit wouldn't be a bad investment, thanks for looking out Crash.
 
sorry for my ignorance but what and where are the drive cups?

are these the points where the drive shafts plug into the diffs?
 
sorry for my ignorance but what and where are the drive cups?

are these the points where the drive shafts plug into the diffs?

As well as the transmission and pinions. Every where you see a dogbone. Only the ones on the tranny and pinions are retained by set screws. The ones on the diff are retained by pins inside the diff.
 
gotcha ... my next post might be a bit long with pictures ...

its a glum diagnosis fellas ... :O(
 
Hey guys,

I've got serious transmission issues ...

With the front wheels off the ground and spinning the right side wheel the left wheel spins at the same speed with just a little 'delay' (slack?) in both directions. If I do the same with the left wheel things are a lot different (scuse the pun!) its choppy and even sometimes 'catches' and stops altogether when doing this the right side wheel only sort of spins.

If i do the same with the rear end it feels choppy and 'catchy' spinning either wheel.

with all four wheels on the ground if it roll it back fast the spur gear spins freely for a while ... the clutch bell too (am I right in thinking that the clutch bell is 'in between' the flywheel and the spur gear?) I don't think the slipper clutch is the problem any more, that seems to be fine and turning it moved the car forward ... either way, i have some stripping down to do don't I ... ????

Looking at the nut on the spur wheel I'm a bit confused, it doesn't seem to be a locking nut as there is no thread on the shaft showing, nor any way it could be showing as the nut seems sealed ...

spur2.png


Anyway, before I do anything I'm feeling that I should get on to the folks I bought this from ModelSportUK to see what they have to say. I mean I know these trucks are for bashing and all that but to have such a problem this early on with a 'pro built' RTR kit is a bit gutting to be honest. Its been used for 5.5 hours and 90% of that time it was slowly going round and round car park ... its par for the course to have some issues I know but a totalled transmission after such a small amount of use is rubbish!
 
Yeah it's a locking nut. As long as a couple threads are visible you should be good. The CB is what engages the spur, your right. It sounds like you may have some bevel gear issues. Looks like shimming the diff and pinion may be in your future. Sounds like what happened to me. Jump in if I'm wrong fellas, don't want to mislead Jammer.
 
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I agree if when your moving one wheel the other doesn't move smoothly you've got diff problems. Time to upgrade to the 4 gear diffs with alloy covers. Also in your picture it looks to me like the nut for the spur gear isn't very tight. Tighten it all the way down so the spring is compressed then back it off half a turn.
 
yeah, just been talking about this with my bro (he's an engineers engineer ... if you know what i mean) and he was saying exactly the same thing. sounds like the diffs have collapsed (planetary diffs?)

anyway, i'm going to look at the shafts coming from the center diff as it seems a bit odd that both the front and rear diff would end up with the same issue at the same time? not sure if i'm right on that one but to my newbie brain that makes sense 😉

i just hope nothing is chewed up in there ... also what shimms do we recommened to go in there?

and more importantly ... what about the savage X diff upgrade? is it worth me just throwing the towel in and buying the X diffs to replace my savage 3.5 diffs? if i'm going to be stripping the damn thing already I might as well go the whole hog eh?

cheers guys.
 
I agree if when your moving one wheel the other doesn't move smoothly you've got diff problems. Time to upgrade to the 4 gear diffs with alloy covers. Also in your picture it looks to me like the nut for the spur gear isn't very tight. Tighten it all the way down so the spring is compressed then back it off half a turn.

really? from what i can tell that spring is tight already ... i'll take a look at this ...

do you have a link for that 4 gear diff upgrade?

thanks!!!
 
Jammer

with the truck off ground hold one wheel and spin the other, it should spin smooth or else you may have a diff problem

sorry to hear about your savy being down.

Nitronutzz will tell you exactly what you need for the x diff upgrade, I did it to a 21 and a 25 it nice.

you will still need the shimms, the x style need to be shimmed after 1 gallon too.

good luck
 
Jammer

with the truck off ground hold one wheel and spin the other, it should spin smooth or else you may have a diff problem

sorry to hear about your savy being down.

Nitronutzz will tell you exactly what you need for the x diff upgrade, I did it to a 21 and a 25 it nice.

you will still need the shimms, the x style need to be shimmed after 1 gallon too.

good luck

holding one wheel and spinning the other is a no go ... i have a diff problem on both the front and the rear ... gutted ... i've not got any cash at the mo either ... i have a nice 4x4 door wedge at the mo ...

:O(

thanks for all the help guys but there is no way i can afford these bits after having spent the money on the savage ... how ironic!!
 
I'm guessing that would be the pinion, might as well build it up right now. Savage X diffs! Make sure you get those shims and check it after a gallon. In the meantime you can research how to build it up learn what products aren't that great. That's what I've benn doing for awhile now. Good time to go over it and locktite every thing.
 
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jammer

The you can replace the rear diffs only with x style for about 50 bucks or less when your ready.

e mail rob for a price, he wont hold you to purchase.

I run one of my savys with rear only, its a blast. (just got done running it)

do the fronts when you gather more funds
 
oh ok, running it 2x2 for a bit would be doable i guess ... i'm going to see what the prices are like after speaking to ModelSport.
 
omg ... i just read this ...

Savage X Diff Guide

One of the quotes at the bottom reads: "FYI, RTR, out of the box, there is virtually NO lube in the differentials…"

wtf? why would they do that, its asking for trouble!!!!!
 
haha! see this is what I have to contend with in the UK ...

the 4 gear Savage X diffs are $37.99 in the UK they are £34.99 that works out as $72.38 ...

crash ... i think i'm going to get onto your mate to order these parts ...
 
Some good news!!! I just spoke to my dealer I bought the Savage from and they said that if i take the diffs out and send them up, they will look at them for me and repair them free of charge ... I just need to cover the postage.

ModelSportUK ... great dealer!!
 
nice to see there going to stand behind the products they sell and fix them free of charge!!!! let us know how everything turns out!!!
 

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