Is it shifting?

[Pointz]

I recently bought a savage 25 roller online and finally got it running. The thing is a beast, and a real blast to drive. I’m just not sure it’s shifting gears. I can’t hear it shift so I don’t know if it’s staying in low gear or starting in hi gear. And I don’t want to just start adjusting shift points and make more trouble for myself. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Gazzman]

You say you can't hear it shifting, it could be shifting up very early, sometime they shift almost immediately you hit the gas if the shift point is set wrong. They are sort of trial & error getting them right. If the mill isn't tuned right it can stop them shifting too. They are very easy to setup. Start by winding the gub screw in all the way, then back it out 2.5-3 turns from fully seated, this is the base setting they come with. From there if it still don't shift wind the grub 1/2 turn at a time to to adjust. In if you what a later shift or out if you want an early shift.

 

[Vinni]

You say you can't hear it shifting, it could be shifting up very early, sometime they shift almost immediately you hit the gas if the shift point is set wrong. They are sort of trial & error getting them right. If the mill isn't tuned right it can stop them shifting too. They are very easy to setup. Start by winding the gub screw in all the way, then back it out 2.5-3 turns from fully seated, this is the base setting they come with. From there if it still don't shift wind the grub 1/2 turn at a time to to adjust. In if you what a later shift or out if you want an early shift.

👍 same as above I'm 3 n half turns out from fully closed fo a later shift as ma lrp32 seems to shred 2nd gear but that advice above is spot on 👍

 

[Pointz]

Thank you all for the advice. I forgot to mention my truck has a 52 tooth spur and a 14 tooth bell gear. Will that make any difference in the shift points?

 

[Pointz]

You say you can't hear it shifting, it could be shifting up very early, sometime they shift almost immediately you hit the gas if the shift point is set wrong. They are sort of trial & error getting them right. If the mill isn't tuned right it can stop them shifting too. They are very easy to setup. Start by winding the gub screw in all the way, then back it out 2.5-3 turns from fully seated, this is the base setting they come with. From there if it still don't shift wind the grub 1/2 turn at a time to to adjust. In if you what a later shift or out if you want an early shift.

Thanks for the advice. I’m not sure if both of my advisers need answering, or you both get it, but thanks

 

[Gazzman]

No we all see the quesrtions & answers bud. And a 52T spur and 14T clutch bell should work fine. Just have a little fiddle with the grub screw, you can always put it back to were it was if not happy. But if you wind in in till it bottoms out counting the turns as you go, you will then know where it was set.
If you ain't got a manual with your truck you can download them for free from HPI website under the Learning Lab tab, just scroll down till you find your model.
https://www.hpiracing.com/instructions

 

[ohsnap]

Thank you all for the advice. I forgot to mention my truck has a 52 tooth spur and a 14 tooth bell gear. Will that make any difference in the shift points?

Short answer - yes.
Different clutch / spur gear combinations can affect the shift point setting.

...then back it out 2.5-3 turns from fully seated, this is the base setting they come with.

👍 same as above I'm 3 n half turns out from fully closed fo a later shift as ma lrp32 seems to shred 2nd gear but that advice above is spot on 👍

With the .25 and a 14 / 52 combination I would believe that you may be closer to 4 turns out (or more).
I run taller gearing (16 / 48, 17 / 47, 18 / 49) and use 3 1/2 turns out as my starting point for a 2-speed.

From my notes - a .21BB with a 15 / 49 combination had 2nd gear set at 4 ½ + 120 degrees turns out (almost 5).

When I'm not sure when (or if) it's shifting, a test that I use is to (body off) pick it up by the rollbar and (at first) gently give it some gas and then increase speed if you haven't felt the shift.
Just a short burst is needed.
You can feel whether it shifts - or not.
If it doesn't - give it a quarter turn out and retest.

If it does shift...
Then ground test and adjust as necessary.

 

[Pointz]

Short answer - yes.
Different clutch / spur gear combinations can affect the shift point setting.






With the .25 and a 14 / 52 combination I would believe that you may be closer to 4 turns out (or more).
I run taller gearing (16 / 48, 17 / 47, 18 / 49) and use 3 1/2 turns out as my starting point for a 2-speed.

From my notes - a .21BB with a 15 / 49 combination had 2nd gear set at 4 ½ + 120 degrees turns out (almost 5).

When I'm not sure when (or if) it's shifting, a test that I use is to (body off) pick it up by the rollbar and (at first) gently give it some gas and then increase speed if you haven't felt the shift.
Just a short burst is needed.
You can feel whether it shifts - or not.
If it doesn't - give it a quarter turn out and retest.

If it does shift...
Then ground test and adjust as necessary.

Thank you much. I’ll do as you suggest. I think it’s starting in second to tell the truth. I got it with a 15/52 gears. I burned a spur gear because of my bad slipper adjustment, then put a nylon 47 tooth spur and did a bad mesh job and blew the 47. Did more watching videos on aligning it, put in a 52 steel gear and ate the 15 bell. Now I finally have it all aligned and running well but it just don’t have the low end I was expecting. And I don’t hear the shift. So I will do as all have suggested and see how it does. Thanks bunches for the help!

 

[Gazzman]

Tr reason you ate the clutch bell was probably because it was not a hardened one. If your going to run steel spur gears you must have a hardened clutch bell.

 

[Pointz]

Tr reason you ate the clutch bell was probably because it was not a hardened one. If your going to run steel spur gears you must have a hardened clutch bell.

Your right. I am now running a protekrc hard bell. Since I have no hobby stores close every breakdown is a two week wait for parts. Gives me lots of time to study what I did wrong! Thanks again

 

[Pointz]

No we all see the quesrtions & answers bud. And a 52T spur and 14T clutch bell should work fine. Just have a little fiddle with the grub screw, you can always put it back to were it was if not happy. But if you wind in in till it bottoms out counting the turns as you go, you will then know where it was set.
If you ain't got a manual with your truck you can download them for free from HPI website under the Learning Lab tab, just scroll down till you find your model.
https://www.hpiracing.com/instructions

Thanks for the info. It has all been very helpful.

 

[ohsnap]

...Since I have no hobby stores close every breakdown is a two week wait for parts. Gives me lots of time to study what I did wrong!

The "connivence" of shopping in this modern world.
You no longer have to get in the car to schlep on over to the local hobby store and pick up what you need. You can order what you want from home - and then wait for days...

Buy some critical spare parts (like A-arms) in advance.
Did a manual come with your Savage?

 

[Pointz]

The "connivence" of shopping in this modern world.
You no longer have to get in the car to schlep on over to the local hobby store and pick up what you need. You can order what you want from home - and then wait for days...

Buy some critical spare parts (like A-arms) in advance.
Did a manual come with your Savage?

No it didn’t. I have downloaded it though. Hahaha that’s how I burned my first spur. I read the part on adjusting the slipper and I got it to loose and melted the spur. I’m learning. Slowly mind you but learning. I haven’t fooled with any nitro since I was a kid with the old cox .049s. These are a different animal.