Small update on my Savage X SS that I built so long ago...

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Raksasas

Member
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9
Location
Central Texas
Update from my original post - https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/i-have-had-a-savage-x-ss-sitting-around-since-2015.21023

I ordered the rotostart parts to replace the broken pull start that first week of July but...

July 11th, I was in a motorcycle accident caused by someone pulling out in from of me on a back country road. The Electra glide was totaled and left me with a TBI and broken leg. Well anyway... While in the down time, I got the pull start changed over to the rotostart.

About 3 weeks ago I finally got through the first tank break-in. I feel like that was rough. Every single time I removed the igniter it would die out... I started searching for the reason why and the closest things that I could find was pointing toward adjusting the low speed needle. I marked where it was sitting originally and gave it 2 or 3 very slight step turns, clockwise, which managed to keep it running for 1-5 minutes after the igniter was removed. I didn't measure how long but it was better than dying a couple of seconds after removing the igniter.

Like I mentioned in my first post, I built this thing years ago and it was/is my first nitro... I do not recall ever messing with any of the needles... high, low, idle screw. To the best of my knowledge, it was in its stock spot. Plus the Engine Manual saying to not adjust anything on it until after the break-in. So I do not ever remember "playing" with those... Except for just recently, the low speed to get it to run without the igniter...

After getting through that I started with the second tank which per the break-in was to start slowing giving it throttle. Well I didn't get too far into this.. It tooks a good amount of time to make it through the first tank... I filled the tank to start this second tank with slow throttle input but every single time I gave it any amount of throttle it stalled.. At that time, I needed to be somewhere so I emptied the tank and burned off any excess fuel in the lines.

Anyone have some tips for me on getting it through this second tank? Like I said it appears to stall when giving it some throttle. It starts to give some movement to the wheels but stalls out shortly after...
 
Wot glowe plug you useing ? N u don’t after empty tank n lines less it’s goin back in storage ?
 
hwrd442 said:
Turn the high speed needle in 1/2 to full turn.
Click to expand...
Would you mind elaborating a bit more? Rich (to the left/counter-clockwise) or Lean (to the right/clockwise?

I am trying to follow the k4.6 Engine Manual and it does not talk about any needle adjustment until after 4 tanks. I didn't even want to adjust the low speed with what little i did. I just wanted it to run without having to keep the igniter on it as it states to "Remove the glow plug igniter as soon as the engine is running." I have no experience with nitro as i stated already. While I was doing the first tank on off the ground with the electronics off... Several times I was thinking I wish I knew someone locally... The local RC hobby shop, Hobby Center, closed in 2021...🙁
 
Last edited:
Raksasas said:
Would you mind elaborating a bit more? Rich (to to left/counter-clockwise) or Lean (to the right/clockwise?

I am trying to follow the k4.6 Engine Manual and it does not talk about any needle adjustment until after 4 tanks. I didn't even want to adjust the low speed with what little i did. I just wanted it to run without having to keep the igniter on it as it states to "Remove the glow plug igniter as soon as the engine is running." I no experiance with nitro as i stated already. While I was doing the first tank on off the ground with the electronics off... Several times I was thinking I wish I knew someone locally... The local RC hobby shop, Hobby Center, closed in 2021...🙁
Click to expand...
Just keep in mind the term "in" denotes leaner, and "out" would be richer. if you prefer clockwise is leaner and counterclockwise would be richer, I make my adjustments in hours on a clock face for finer tuning, but as above you can make larger adjustments as the engine is not fully broken in, lastly do you have a temp measuring device, like an infrared temp reader, you will want to get 1 if you don't have it and always keep in mind when tuning to make adjustments on an engine that is up to operating temps...
 
Jam 1 said:
Just keep in mind the term "in" denotes leaner, and "out" would be richer. if you prefer clockwise is leaner and counterclockwise would be richer, I make my adjustments in hours on a clock face for finer tuning, but as above you can make larger adjustments as the engine is not fully broken in, lastly do you have a temp measuring device, like an infrared temp reader, you will want to get 1 if you don't have it and always keep in mind when tuning to make adjustments on an engine that is up to operating temps...
Click to expand...
Sorry that is my mistake... I took "in" as move it in 1/2 turn intervals.. I did not see it as screwing it in or screwing it out. Yes, I do have an temp gun.

Just saying "turn it" does not help build the fundamental knowledgeable of the reason why. I despise my father because of that sh%t and calling me at 5 years old stupid... Either you get it or you don't... Not my problem for you to understand why and have explaining it out... All it taught me was don't go to him for help on things...

What does adjusting the high speed needle have to do with not stalling it when applying throttle?
 
Last edited:
Raksasas said:
Sorry that is my mistake... I took "in" as move it in 1/2 turn intervals.. I did not see it as screwing it in or screwing it out. Yes, I do have an temp gun.

Just saying "turn it" does not help build the fundamental knowledgeable of the reason why. I despise my father because of that sh%t and calling me at 5 years ago stupid... Either you get it or you don't... Not my problem for you to understand why and have explaining it out... All it taught me was don't go to him for help on things...

What does adjusting the high speed needle have to do with not stalling it when applying throttle?
Click to expand...
The mixture is too rich, meaning too much fuel so leaning the mixture will help it not die when applying throttle because there is a little less fuel in the mixture....
 
Raksasas said:
Sorry that is my mistake... I took "in" as move it in 1/2 turn intervals.. I did not see it as screwing it in or screwing it out. Yes, I do have an temp gun.

Just saying "turn it" does not help build the fundamental knowledgeable of the reason why. I despise my father because of that sh%t and calling me at 5 years ago stupid... Either you get it or you don't... Not my problem for you to understand why and have explaining it out... All it taught me was don't go to him for help on things...

What does adjusting the high speed needle have to do with not stalling it when applying throttle?
Click to expand...
Didn't mean to bring up daddy issues. Sorry buddy.
 
Raksasas said:
Update from my original post - https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/i-have-had-a-savage-x-ss-sitting-around-since-2015.21023

I ordered the rotostart parts to replace the broken pull start that first week of July but...

July 11th, I was in a motorcycle accident caused by someone pulling out in from of me on a back country road. The Electra glide was totaled and left me with a TBI and broken leg. Well anyway... While in the down time, I got the pull start changed over to the rotostart.

About 3 weeks ago I finally got through the first tank break-in. I feel like that was rough. Every single time I removed the igniter it would die out... I started searching for the reason why and the closest things that I could find was pointing toward adjusting the low speed needle. I marked where it was sitting originally and gave it 2 or 3 very slight step turns, clockwise, which managed to keep it running for 1-5 minutes after the igniter was removed. I didn't measure how long but it was better than dying a couple of seconds after removing the igniter.

Like I mentioned in my first post, I built this thing years ago and it was/is my first nitro... I do not recall ever messing with any of the needles... high, low, idle screw. To the best of my knowledge, it was in its stock spot. Plus the Engine Manual saying to not adjust anything on it until after the break-in. So I do not ever remember "playing" with those... Except for just recently, the low speed to get it to run without the igniter...

After getting through that I started with the second tank which per the break-in was to start slowing giving it throttle. Well I didn't get too far into this.. It tooks a good amount of time to make it through the first tank... I filled the tank to start this second tank with slow throttle input but every single time I gave it any amount of throttle it stalled.. At that time, I needed to be somewhere so I emptied the tank and burned off any excess fuel in the lines.

Anyone have some tips for me on getting it through this second tank? Like I said it appears to stall when giving it some throttle. It starts to give some movement to the wheels but stalls out shortly after...
Click to expand...
Wot kinda fuel you useing ? N remember people don’t always do there jobs properly ie yor savage mite o bin rushed n not set up properly so like the other guys said turns the needle in a bit to lean mixture ? N double check fings r nice n tite ie carb cooling head back plate betto check n needle settings tho
 
Jam 1 said:
The mixture is too rich, meaning too much fuel so leaning the mixture will help it not die when applying throttle because there is a little less fuel in the mixture....
Click to expand...

Will that cause any issues with the break-in?

From the reading about doing the break-in... They want it to be rich to make sure it is well-lubricated during this break-in. I guess in this case it is mostly knowledge from experience... It's a give and take... Based on how it is acting... Lean it out a little until it is running well enough to stay running but not so much that it will damage the motor and once you get through a few tanks then start adjusting for performance.
 
Raksasas said:
Will that cause any issues with the break-in?

From the reading about doing the break-in... They want it to be rich to make sure it is well-lubricated during this break-in. I guess in this case it is mostly knowledge from experience... It's a give and take... Based on how it is acting... Lean it out a little until it is running well enough to stay running but not so much that it will damage the motor and once you get through a few tanks then start adjusting for performance.
Click to expand...
A lot of things can play in the factor of if it stays running without the igniter fuel mixture and temperature are the most likely factors so if you’re trying to start in and it’s cold out then it’s going to take a bit to warm it up enough for it to stay running unless you preheated your engine if you preheated it then it’s going to be the mixture that needs adjusting just monitor your temps the whole time
 
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