uniflow mod or a new tank to fix the HTL?

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pelicanprentice

Active Member
Messages
107
hello, i have a savage x 4.6 and i think i started getting the htl. last week my savage x ran completely fine, it had tons of power and was popping wheelies and the temps stayed at the desired range. however this weekend, it was acting up. i was using the same fuel from the same bottle. i believe i am getting symptoms of htl. it wouldnt hold a tune properly, it would start overheating and i would have to richen it, and then when i richened it, i had to richen it way too much to actually get it to stay around 230f and then it got all groggy. the ambient temp was around 70f and i am running 30% nitro with a traxxas 3232x which is a medium heat plug. i also noticed at some points i could see air bubbles in my fuel line.

i know my o ring for the tank was bad and was kinda chipped and stuff so i picked up a set of o rings at my local hardware store and i got a size thats pretty similar. it seems to seal the tank pretty good. when i close the other end and i blow into the tank, its not perfectly sealed but its seems to be sealing atleast 90%, i can hear a slight air hiss. however ill try a diff size o ring and see if i can get it sealed perfectly fine.

however moving forward i want to do something jsut to get rid of a potential htl once and for all, i did my google research however most of the topics on this are old so i was wondering if anything changed or if theres a better method to fix htl now in 2021.

personally if i can find a new tank that mounts easily on my savage x and doesnt have HTL i would totally prefer that first, secondly i was thinking of doing the uniflow mod until my new tank comes in. so I'm looking for tank recommendations and preferably one with a threaded gas cap, i don't really like the spring cap, i feel like a threaded would always seal best

looking for recommendations!!
 
Well if your tank seal is not sealing properly, then your car will not work correctly anyway. Any airleaks will make it out of tune. Start with a correct seal, check that theres no leaks from exhaust side either. (gasket between engine and manifold, gasket /coupler between muffler and manifold). Tune the car in mid tank so its nicely in tune. When the tank is full then its just a tad bit on the rich side. I never use heat gun or worry about the temperature. If it sounds and moves "correctly" its fine for me. If its tuned right, it most likely wont overheat anyway. And if it does and the engine blows up its time to buy a new one. RC is supposed to be fun, so worrying too much kills the fun.
If you want another tank then there is no tank that doesnt need modification.(new tank mounts).
 
"HTL" = A claimed problem that was a band-aid solution to an engine with air leak issues imo. In all my years of running countless different engines, i NEVER experienced a "HTL". Modding a Savage to use a smaller buggy fuel tank is a solution to a non existant issue. But if you feel the need by all means mod as you see fit.
 
Well if your tank seal is not sealing properly, then your car will not work correctly anyway. Any airleaks will make it out of tune. Start with a correct seal, check that theres no leaks from exhaust side either. (gasket between engine and manifold, gasket /coupler between muffler and manifold). Tune the car in mid tank so its nicely in tune. When the tank is full then its just a tad bit on the rich side. I never use heat gun or worry about the temperature. If it sounds and moves "correctly" its fine for me. If its tuned right, it most likely wont overheat anyway. And if it does and the engine blows up its time to buy a new one. RC is supposed to be fun, so worrying too much kills the fun.
If you want another tank then there is no tank that doesnt need modification.(new tank mounts).
thank you! i do have doubts on where my tuned pipe enters the silicone coupler. is there a way i can test if its sealing properly? i feel like my coupler is too long
 
Coupler too long? What? It doesnt matter how its in there, as long as the ends are tightly zip-tied and there is no air leak. Good way to test it is to blow through the pipe and see if the air is coming out from somewhere. You have to block air hole that goes in to tank and engine rotated to position that it is not letting air through.
 
Coupler too long? What? It doesnt matter how its in there, as long as the ends are tightly zip-tied and there is no air leak. Good way to test it is to blow through the pipe and see if the air is coming out from somewhere. You have to block air hole that goes in to tank and engine rotated to position that it is not letting air through.
gotcha thanks! i thought the two metal places have to be as close as possible to lower the chance for leaks. the reason i thought my coupler was too long is because the pipe bends and the coupler kinda wants to follow the bend, i thoight if there was a short coupler then i could have metal on metal contact and a short ziptied coupler to hold it in place, but i think I'm over thinking since i did the test and its sealed good enough
 
They say you need to raise the tank I ordered two alum ones from China cut them and wielded them together
 

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There is a mod for a revo fuel tank. Go to rc4me. I have been using it on 2 of my Savages and it works at this point. I ends up a little wider and flexes the body a bit. Also doesn't seem to hold as much fuel. I like the fact that I fill my truck up and it keeps running until its dry. I would like some feed back from someone else who runs this set up.
 
@Polar_Bus

"HTL" = A claimed problem that was a band-aid solution to an engine with air leak issues imo. In all my years of running countless different engines, i NEVER experienced a "HTL". Modding a Savage to use a smaller buggy fuel tank is a solution to a non existent issue. "

I TOO HAVE NEVER EXPERIENCED THE DREADED "HTL". I ALWAYS FOUND SOME OTHER REASON MY ENGINE WAS LEANING OUT , LOOSE HEADER TO PIPE COUPLER , PIN HOLE IN FUEL LINE , LEAKING FRONT BEARING , BAD O-RING ON FUEL TANK LID .... ESPECIALLY AFTER I STARTED SEALING ALL MY ENGINES EVEN NEW ONES RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX WHICH ELEMINATES QUITE A FEW OF THEM.
I EVEN SEAL THE ACCORDION BOOT ON THE CARB SLIDE AND THE EXHAUST COUPLER. AND
YES I PUT ZIP TIES ON COUPLER WHEN SILICONE IS CURED.
 

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