Require complete suspension arm set (standard plastic HPI) is there a new version for the big bore suspensions ?

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Atarioldskool

Active Member
Messages
122
Location
Leicester UK
Hi all,
As some of you are aware i have purchased a used Savage XL (old model that has 8 shocks and springs)
As per the title, i am going to be changing the aluminium suspension arm sets to the standard stock item (plastic HPI arms)

I will also be upgrading the shocks and springs to the aluminium big bore shocks - Rather than do the "upgrade" i thought while i am changing the arms i might as well purchase the proper arms that are specifically designed for big bore shocks as standard, if there is such a thing ?

I don't want the shocks / arms to look like there is a shock missing from the the arm, as normally you would have a shock on each side of axle or what ever the part is called ?

Is there such thing as a new version suspension arms, that come with all the new HPI trucks as standard ? if so could someone advise me the part number?

Thanks
 
HPI made the arms to accept either 1 shock or 2 shocks per arm. The only "specific" thing they did was to change the old 21 savage arms which were made to fit either side and front or back to making them side specific. Before, they had shock mounts on both sides of the arms (top/bottom). Now they are only on one side of the arm which makes the arms side specific. They did change the mounting point so it captures both the front/rear of the screw that holds the shock which made the connection stronger.

This is a savage I used to have that used old arms, you can see there's an ear for the shock on the bottom of the arm:
2010-0410-SavageT-Maxx3.3BodyFront.jpg


This is the newer style arm with an integy rear carrier that removes the need for the rear turnbuckles:
2015-1218-SavageX-RearHubIntegy02.jpg


You can see on the newer arm they have a shock mount on the front/rear of the arm, but nothing on the bottom of the arm.

The big bore shocks come with larger springs. I don't know of any that aren't all black. They have a little bit of color on the end to show the weight/rating of the spring (blue,silver,pink,white,yellow,red) but otherwise they are black. I use white on my X and 40 weight associated oil in the shocks:
http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/86553

I use white on the front of my flux hp and yellow on the rear, both with 40wt associated. I tried 50 weight, but it was too stiff and I was breaking shock ends on a regular basis.

rc4me.us has the arms in stock, you need 2 sets of each:
https://rc4me.us/product/hpi85238/
https://rc4me.us/product/hpi85238-2/

They should work with the integy c-hub and axle carriers you have (the bits on the end of the arm by the tire).

rc4me.us also has the big bore plastic shocks:
https://rc4me.us/product/hpi102365/

I run those on both my X and flux. They seem to hold up fine. On rare occasion, I break a shock cap or shock end. So, might be a good idea to get a couple spares to have on hand:
https://rc4me.us/product/hpi100961-1/
https://rc4me.us/product/hpi100949-8/

They also have some nice big bore aluminum shocks, but I haven't tried them. They have a larger diameter shaft:
https://rc4me.us/product/sav8001/
 
HPI made the arms to accept either 1 shock or 2 shocks per arm. The only "specific" thing they did was to change the old 21 savage arms which were made to fit either side and front or back to making them side specific. Before, they had shock mounts on both sides of the arms (top/bottom). Now they are only on one side of the arm which makes the arms side specific. They did change the mounting point so it captures both the front/rear of the screw that holds the shock which made the connection stronger.

This is a savage I used to have that used old arms, you can see there's an ear for the shock on the bottom of the arm:
2010-0410-SavageT-Maxx3.3BodyFront.jpg


This is the newer style arm with an integy rear carrier that removes the need for the rear turnbuckles:
2015-1218-SavageX-RearHubIntegy02.jpg


You can see on the newer arm they have a shock mount on the front/rear of the arm, but nothing on the bottom of the arm.

The big bore shocks come with larger springs. I don't know of any that aren't all black. They have a little bit of color on the end to show the weight/rating of the spring (blue,silver,pink,white,yellow,red) but otherwise they are black. I use white on my X and 40 weight associated oil in the shocks:
http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/86553

I use white on the front of my flux hp and yellow on the rear, both with 40wt associated. I tried 50 weight, but it was too stiff and I was breaking shock ends on a regular basis.

rc4me.us has the arms in stock, you need 2 sets of each:
https://rc4me.us/product/hpi85238/
https://rc4me.us/product/hpi85238-2/

They should work with the integy c-hub and axle carriers you have (the bits on the end of the arm by the tire).

rc4me.us also has the big bore plastic shocks:
https://rc4me.us/product/hpi102365/

I run those on both my X and flux. They seem to hold up fine. On rare occasion, I break a shock cap or shock end. So, might be a good idea to get a couple spares to have on hand:
https://rc4me.us/product/hpi100961-1/
https://rc4me.us/product/hpi100949-8/

They also have some nice big bore aluminum shocks, but I haven't tried them. They have a larger diameter shaft:
https://rc4me.us/product/sav8001/

Thank you so much for the in-depth explanation
Very much appreciated.

I didn’t know I also had to get the upper arms, good job you mentioned it to me.

Really wanted to get the aluminium big bore shocks made by HPI but they are so bloody expensive.
I didn’t realise they are over £95 for a set of 4
Shocks - in essence for a toy!!

Is there any alternate make of big bore aluminium shocks out there which are a reputable and decent shock set ?
If there isn’t then I may have to go for the standard plastic big bore shock set.
My needs are really to sprint on flat surfaces, the odd jumps no more than 12inch of the ground And possibly bumpy dirt roads/tracks

I don’t want to be paying more £50/£60 for shock sets

Also the c-hubs and axle carriers I am looking for chrome/silver colour in aluminium, I don’t like the purple or the orange colour looks I am struggling to find parts this colour, anything to do with aluminium I am struggling to find chrome/silver colour.

If there is not, then is there a way of removing the purple colour paint of it ? As I assume underneath that purple paint it is chrome / silver bare metal ?
 
Thank you so much for the in-depth explanation
Very much appreciated.

I didn’t know I also had to get the upper arms, good job you mentioned it to me.

Really wanted to get the aluminium big bore shocks made by HPI but they are so bloody expensive.
I didn’t realise they are over £95 for a set of 4
Shocks - in essence for a toy!!

Is there any alternate make of big bore aluminium shocks out there which are a reputable and decent shock set ?
If there isn’t then I may have to go for the standard plastic big bore shock set.
My needs are really to sprint on flat surfaces, the odd jumps no more than 12inch of the ground And possibly bumpy dirt roads/tracks

I don’t want to be paying more £50/£60 for shock sets

Also the c-hubs and axle carriers I am looking for chrome/silver colour in aluminium, I don’t like the purple or the orange colour looks I am struggling to find parts this colour, anything to do with aluminium I am struggling to find chrome/silver colour.

If there is not, then is there a way of removing the purple colour paint of it ? As I assume underneath that purple paint it is chrome / silver bare metal ?




Well for what you say you are going to be doing I say plastic shocks should be fine, and as for the coloring of the alloy parts you can remove the anodizing with some easy off oven cleaner and use a bit of mothers or any other polishing compound to shine them up...
 
Quick side question
This is the newer style arm with an integy rear carrier that removes the need for the rear turnbuckles:

Do the integy rear carriers effect the handling of the truck?? what about toe adjustments? Usually you need to account for the way the wheels toe out during acceleration. I've been having issues with the turnbuckle mounts on the gearbox case moving too much
 
Yes, for HPI parts, any part numbers with a dash are part of an assembly or package of parts. HPI# 85238 is one pair of upper and lower arms.

https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/85238

Oh! So basically an arm set consist of 1 pair of arm?
So it is not like an arm set which is basically for the fronts and then need to buy another set for the rears!

I have to buy 4 sets, is this correct ?
If so blimmey this is becoming an expensive hobby ?
 
No, one 85238 is two upper and two lower arms (I realize now how my wording may have been confusing). For a complete set, you need two 85238.

The link I posted for you earlier shows this.

1540402146397.png
 
No, one 85238 is two upper and two lower arms (I realize now how my wording may have been confusing). For a complete set, you need two 85238.

The link I posted for you earlier shows this.

View attachment 5794

That’s not too bad then ?
Thank you

Got a question regarding turnbuckles, if anyone can help?

I’m looking for aluminium (chrome/silver) and all the ones I can find including HPI, the size are either too long or to short!

Replacement part from HPI size is M4 x 70mm
All the ones I find are M4 x around 85mm or M4 x around 35-50mm

M4 I guess is the thickness or the thread/bolt and the mm I assume is the length?

I want to try and keep everything to the standard specification all be it the colour, I don’t want to be modifying, chopping etc

Anyone know where I can get the same length turnbuckles but in aluminium chrome /silver ?
Or what can I do ??

Thank you
 
Thank you for this , finally seen a brand hat does the size that the savage XL requires ?

Yes steel is fine, just need something that is chrome

Any other design / brand would you recommend ?

Just as a curiosity why don’t HPI do the steel / chrome turn buckled in the standard Savage XL size ? And only do something either too long or to short ?
I deally I would really like to keep all major parts as HPI but I know for certain things I would have to get others
 
Like I said above titanium is always going to be a better option, and for the price of 13 bux is a bargain, and yes they are lighter than steel but 3 times tougher and they stay shiny for life.....
 
Like I said above titanium is always going to be a better option, and for the price of 13 bux is a bargain, and yes they are lighter than steel but 3 times tougher and they stay shiny for life.....

No one in the uk sites seem to sell these ?
The link you’ve posted is in us

These would have been perfect
Pro-line also seem to do chrome but not sure if they are titanium so gonna see if anyone in the uk sell these
 
Proline would be chrome plated steel, have you checked RipMax to see if any of their distributors sell what you are looking for??

http://www.ripmax.com/Dealers.aspx

Be aware you may have to call some of the places listed due to not all of them stocking parts for surface vehicles, a bit of work on your part will be required pal so be ready to apply some effort.....
 
Proline would be chrome plated steel, have you checked RipMax to see if any of their distributors sell what you are looking for??

http://www.ripmax.com/Dealers.aspx

Be aware you may have to call some of the places listed due to not all of them stocking parts for surface vehicles, a bit of work on your part will be required pal so be ready to apply some effort.....

will have to make calls on the weekend - cant do it while at work , I'm sneaking to go onto the internet at times lol
 
will have to make calls on the weekend - cant do it while at work , I'm sneaking to go onto the internet at times lol



WOW sorry to hear the wife appears to wear the bankroll pants in your homeo_O:eek::p..... guess I am lucky that I have an understanding wife who allows my obsession/adddiction to R/C.... I never have to sneak around , I told her my hobby is much better than another woman:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: :lmao:
 
WOW sorry to hear the wife appears to wear the bankroll pants in your homeo_O:eek::p..... guess I am lucky that I have an understanding wife who allows my obsession/adddiction to R/C.... I never have to sneak around , I told her my hobby is much better than another woman:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::lmao:
rolling eyes* lmao

no mrs here - probably why I'm separated i do my own thing - i was referring to while I'm at work
 
rolling eyes* lmao

no mrs here - probably why I'm separated i do my own thing - i was referring to while I'm at work



:lmao: sorry, I am retired and spend alot of time playing on my computer..... as for the links you posted yes those are basically the same except one comes with the ball connectors, I would keep those plastic also so you have a built in weak point that is cheap to repair and replace......
 
:lmao: sorry, I am retired and spend alot of time playing on my computer..... as for the links you posted yes those are basically the same except one comes with the ball connectors, I would keep those plastic also so you have a built in weak point that is cheap to repair and replace......

LOL no probs pal,

and will do regards to the plastic connectors
thanks
 
I have managed to find a supplier of lonsford turnbuckles in uk :)

the question i have now is they have 2 options in size: 4mm x 70mm (which is the same size as the original HPI part) and also a 4mm x 75mm
option.

Now 1 part of me is thinking to buy the 4mm x 75mm size - only because when i fit the plastic connector back onto to the car, when i screwed it back onto the rod all the way in, it did not reach point a to b so i had to unscrew them a little to fit,
so I'm thinking if i get the 4 x 75mm size then i shouldn’t have to keep them a little loose ?
 
Last edited:
Quick side question


Do the integy rear carriers effect the handling of the truck?? what about toe adjustments? Usually you need to account for the way the wheels toe out during acceleration. I've been having issues with the turnbuckle mounts on the gearbox case moving too much
They seem to give me the toe I want. Almost, if not zero.

Usually, if I have a truck that has turnbuckles on the rear, if parts exist to remove them, I remove them. Less things to wear out/break and the toe is consistent without futzing with it.
 

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