Resurrecting my Savage X - Finish it or shelve it?

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Bicketybam

Bicketybam

Member
Messages
28
I just got back into the hobby after an 11 year layoff. My first RC was an HPI Savage X. I really enjoyed driving it, but I hated working on it. After the Savage I bought a Losi Muggy. It was so much easier to work on and I pretty much shelved the Savage, Now that I am back into the hobby, I have started collecting Arrma electrics: Granite 4x4, Senton 4x4, Kraton 6S and I have a Typhon 6S on the way. I also got my Muggy running and I do enjoy the change of pace that nitro offers. So that brings me to my Savage. First, here on the mods that I did 11 years ago:

Aluminum threaded shock set
Titanium turnbuckle set
Wheelie bar
Steel spur gear set (47T)
Dual disk brake set (stainless)
3 speed transmission
Aluminum fuel mounting posts
Custom chassis
Metal diffs cases and hardened outdrives and dogbones.

I went through and replaced parts as I was cleaning it up. Both cups that sit on the ends of the diff pinion gears are brand new (the old ones showed wear). I replaced the gear box that the front diff sits in (stripped out screw holes on the original). I changed most of the A-Arms. Here are some pics:

20180823_175725.webp 20180823_175735.webp 20180823_175745.webp 20180823_175810.webp 20180823_182854.webp 20180823_183110.webp

I plan on using a Tactic radio and receiver that came with my Kraton. So I don't need to spend money there. If I like the truck like I used to, I will buy a Spektrum receiver and run it with my DX5C.

So here come the part where I need to spend money. I need the following:

Steering servo
Throttle servo (I actually have a working throttle servo but while it's better than the stock one, it's not great).
Engine
Tuned Pipe and manifold.

I have several sets of tires I can run and I also have a hardened vented clutchbell that was on the old seized engine. So I am looking at somewhere around $300 to finish it off. I am really on the fence. It is such a pain in the ass to work on compared to my Muggy and my Arrmas. I do remember it being pretty bulletproof though so hopefully I won't be having many issues. I have had two engines in it prior: An Axial .28 and an STS .30 (hated that one). I am not sure if converting to electric is an option or how hard it would be. If it was not a huge undertaking, I would consider that.

So I ask you good people:
Should I continue with the resurrection?
Which engine/tuned pipe combo would you recommend (I went Dynamite Mach 2 .28 for my Muggy).
Which steering servo would you recommend?
Is an electric conversion something to consider?

I have a lot of sentimental attachment to this truck. I have a few bodies ready to go. I LOVE the custom chassis ('Murica!). Let me know your thoughts. And money isn't a huge obstacle. I am willing to spend it if I can end up with a fun truck to bash. Thanks!
 
Well, if you still want to run nitro, the truck holds up better. My X with an LRP30 in it holds up quite a bit better than my Flux HP savage. Nitro doesn't have near the torque of brushless, so the driveline is punished a lot less.

Depending on what you want to spend, I try to go with a servo that is relatively quick, waterproof and more than 150oz/in for the throttle/brake on MT's. The savox SW-1210SG seems to be a really good servo in my outcast and is pretty fast and high torque. Running one of these for steering and another for t/b would probably work really well for a very long time. $82 a piece.

I saw that LRP is making a come back. After running LRP engines for the past 10 years, I'd lean towards one of those. I've only had the 28S3 (3 or 4 of them in various trucks) and 30S2, but both have been long lasting and very powerful engines. They seem to like a more restrictive pipe than the typical savage pipes. I ran a losi HT LST2 pipe on mine with the 28S3 and 30S2. With the HPI polished pipe, they were really good down low, but there was a burble at mid throttle that I couldn't tune out and on the top end, the engines kind of fall on their face. With the more restrictive LST2 pipe, they have good torque and clean tune from idle to WOT.

My only real issue with a nitro savage is the fuel tank. In the 15 years of running a savage in one form or another, the fuel tank HTL issue has been awful for me. So I usually end up figuring out way to install a different rectangular tank, which have always been smaller because I run the shorter savage which has less room.
 
Those servos should work very well for you, but you may want to also get a glitch buster as I'm guessing running 2 savox servos off a 6V NiMH is going to tax it pretty good. Adding a cap will give it some help to avoid brown outs.

Did the engine you get come with the weird pull start handle? Looks like they have a two piece on some of those.
 
olds97_lss said:
Those servos should work very well for you, but you may want to also get a glitch buster as I'm guessing running 2 savox servos off a 6V NiMH is going to tax it pretty good. Adding a cap will give it some help to avoid brown outs.

Did the engine you get come with the weird pull start handle? Looks like they have a two piece on some of those.
Click to expand...

It does have the funky pull start
20180824_132447.webp

He said once the engine is broken in you can start it without using the big T handle.

Thanks for the tip on the glitch buster. I wouldn't have thought of that.
 
Why not finish it! You already seem to have most of the savage as well as a nice group of parts.

Nitro savages will be some what of a collector item in the not so far future with everything being either rtr brushless or converted baskit cases.

With hpi's current sales of the x and complete lack of parts they are getting kinda rare.
 
Bicketybam said:
It does have the funky pull start
View attachment 5546

He said once the engine is broken in you can start it without using the big T handle.

Thanks for the tip on the glitch buster. I wouldn't have thought of that.
Click to expand...

It's kind of a novel idea. Will save your fingers during break-in. But having to carry that in my pocket all the time would annoy me. And with my sissy typing hands, I'd have to use the handle always as just trying to use that little nub would tear my fingers up even after break in.

After break-in, I'd replace it with a normal handle. Just a matter of cutting the rope, sliding a new handle on and tying a knot. I usually do that anyway so I can put a bit more fuel line on the cord to raise the handle up, especially for the savage since the body/tank/tower is in the way with the handle down against the engine. LRP's cord neck/stand off thing is kind of short.
 
@olds97_lss The engine came with a blue restrictor in the carb. I removed it. I really had to richen the needles to keep the temps down at idle break in. Should I put it back?
 
Probably doesn't matter as long as the inside of the carb neck is shaped smoothly without it. I thought most carbs that had replaceable restrictors had various sizes, but always needed the thing in there to have the proper throat shape. I've only seen one, my picco 28 I have NIB and never used. I don't recall taking the restrictor out to see how it looks without it.
 
Started engine break in on Saturday. Here are some pictures of the electronics and engine:

20180825_095931.webp 20180825_100050.webp IMG_0636.webp
I ended up using a pipe/manifold made by STS. I had it on my old STS .30DM engine. So far it seemsto be good, Still a lot of breaking in left to do. The Hyper .30 engine is super tight. Thank God for the pull start system. Even with the giant removeable handle I have tore up the skin in between my index and middle finger. I wear a glove now, lol.
 
ELWOOD said:
Try heating up the engine with a heat gun or hair dryer , it will make it easier on you and the engine .
Click to expand...

I forgot about that. Thank you. That will help with the cold start. It’s also tough to start even after it’s been running though. I getting the tune slowly but surely. I’ve actually had I shift into 2nd 3rd pretty consistently.
 
Engine breaking in nicely. Temps have come down and performance is increasing. Wheelies pretty consistently. Will shift through all gears. Bad news is I think I damaged a diff. Lots of grinding sounds when I shut it down tonight.
 
Bicketybam said:
Engine breaking in nicely. Temps have come down and performance is increasing. Wheelies pretty consistently. Will shift through all gears. Bad news is I think I damaged a diff. Lots of grinding sounds when I shut it down tonight.
Click to expand...
Time to get some BP ring/pinion gears. rc4me.us sells them, but you will need to do both diffs at the same time as the gear ratio is different from the smaller tooth gears.
 
13484EAC-0C94-42DA-A73D-A6DFB8D6337B.webp
olds97_lss said:
Time to get some BP ring/pinion gears. rc4me.us sells them, but you will need to do both diffs at the same time as the gear ratio is different from the smaller tooth gears.
Click to expand...

Missing more teeth than a meth head. That was my bad. I didn’t shim the ring gear side of the outdrive. Way too much slop. Front was fine.

I assume the ring gear will fit my hd diff cups?
 
Bicketybam said:
View attachment 5563

Missing more teeth than a meth head. That was my bad. I didn’t shim the ring gear side of the outdrive. Way too much slop. Front was fine.

I assume the ring gear will fit my hd diff cups?
Click to expand...
Yep. The ring fits the alloy cups just fine. Might be a good time to replace the 10x16 bearing on the ring gear side too. They don't last long and if your going to have it that far apart, it's worth the $2 to change them out for new ones.

ELWOOD said:
@olds_97lss
" And with my sissy typing hands " :lmao:
Click to expand...
Well... I don't have callouses... break-in is never a good time for me.

Post LRP28 break-in:
2007-0331-ASBreakInFingersCloseUp.jpg
 
@olds97_lss

I hear you , I have had my share of RIPPED DIGITS at time of break in too , But I never refereed to them
as"sissy typing hands" before . God I"m LMAO again.
( No disrespect, I"m laughing with you not at you )
 
Last edited:
Then Hyper .30 engine is the most powerful engine I have ever run. The amount of torque down low is insane. I flipped it over the wheelie bar. It hits so hard down low that it is almost like running a brushless electric. No lie. I couldn’t be happier with the engine choice. I’m getting another for my Muggy.

Here it is after running. Original beat to snot Savage body

9535098C-9AB3-4481-BB7B-74AD9E3CFC74.webp E6E199D0-F61B-4CE6-8B3C-25A78930B8C8.webp
 
Are you running 14mm wheel hex's? If so... save up as you will be replacing those with 17mm soon!

About 10 tanks past break-in on my aftershock with just the LRP28, I started cooking wheel hexes every weekend. 14mm just can't take the torque of a decent engine in a bigger truck.
 
olds97_lss said:
Are you running 14mm wheel hex's? If so... save up as you will be replacing those with 17mm soon!

About 10 tanks past break-in on my aftershock with just the LRP28, I started cooking wheel hexes every weekend. 14mm just can't take the torque of a decent engine in a bigger truck.
Click to expand...

I found the original wheel hexes in a bag with all my Savage stuff so I think I have 17mm on there.
 
Bicketybam said:
I just got back into the hobby after an 11 year layoff. My first RC was an HPI Savage X. I really enjoyed driving it, but I hated working on it. After the Savage I bought a Losi Muggy. It was so much easier to work on and I pretty much shelved the Savage, Now that I am back into the hobby, I have started collecting Arrma electrics: Granite 4x4, Senton 4x4, Kraton 6S and I have a Typhon 6S on the way. I also got my Muggy running and I do enjoy the change of pace that nitro offers. So that brings me to my Savage. First, here on the mods that I did 11 years ago:

Aluminum threaded shock set
Titanium turnbuckle set
Wheelie bar
Steel spur gear set (47T)
Dual disk brake set (stainless)
3 speed transmission
Aluminum fuel mounting posts
Custom chassis
Metal diffs cases and hardened outdrives and dogbones.

I went through and replaced parts as I was cleaning it up. Both cups that sit on the ends of the diff pinion gears are brand new (the old ones showed wear). I replaced the gear box that the front diff sits in (stripped out screw holes on the original). I changed most of the A-Arms. Here are some pics:

View attachment 5540 View attachment 5541 View attachment 5542 View attachment 5543 View attachment 5544 View attachment 5545

I plan on using a Tactic radio and receiver that came with my Kraton. So I don't need to spend money there. If I like the truck like I used to, I will buy a Spektrum receiver and run it with my DX5C.

So here come the part where I need to spend money. I need the following:

Steering servo
Throttle servo (I actually have a working throttle servo but while it's better than the stock one, it's not great).
Engine
Tuned Pipe and manifold.

I have several sets of tires I can run and I also have a hardened vented clutchbell that was on the old seized engine. So I am looking at somewhere around $300 to finish it off. I am really on the fence. It is such a pain in the ass to work on compared to my Muggy and my Arrmas. I do remember it being pretty bulletproof though so hopefully I won't be having many issues. I have had two engines in it prior: An Axial .28 and an STS .30 (hated that one). I am not sure if converting to electric is an option or how hard it would be. If it was not a huge undertaking, I would consider that.

So I ask you good people:
Should I continue with the resurrection?
Which engine/tuned pipe combo would you recommend (I went Dynamite Mach 2 .28 for my Muggy).
Which steering servo would you recommend?
Is an electric conversion something to consider?

I have a lot of sentimental attachment to this truck. I have a few bodies ready to go. I LOVE the custom chassis ('Murica!). Let me know your thoughts. And money isn't a huge obstacle. I am willing to spend it if I can end up with a fun truck to bash. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Ha ha same here collecting the arrmas they are great owned muggy for years via dogs name is losi, i bought savage ss roller it was never used and contemplated buying new motor finally running it been shelf queen for years,just getting back into hobby also but i own 5t do i want get savage going i always wanted one never funds to complete now woukdnt be problem but on to other trucks
 
Also muggy body fits perfect on arrma outcast although its becoming a classic and bodys cant buy at least savage still plent of parts alwaysxwanted nitro with a two or three speed tranny
 
Northernnightmare said:
Why not finish it! You already seem to have most of the savage as well as a nice group of parts.

Nitro savages will be some what of a collector item in the not so far future with everything being either rtr brushless or converted baskit cases.

With hpi's current sales of the x and complete lack of parts they are getting kinda rare.
Click to expand...
 
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