another upgrade exhaust this time

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bigbadleo

bigbadleo

Active Member
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Location
Belfast
so i was down in the model shop today getting my new servo and the guy had an hpi exhaust there so i just had to have it🙂
pict0227.jpg


so its fitted and just need to get her tuned again and get a few pics will let u know how it goes
btw when i took the old one out the plastic end piece that goes into the silicone rubber crumbled any ideas why ?
 
Ya I know exactly why, because it is plastic.... it can't take the heat and falls apart.... my Son had that same pipe on his X 4.6 and a dirtclod or rock actually broke the pipe right at the coupler flange too...... I think you will like the alloy pipe much better.....
 
yea, I want ot get the alloy pipe,too. but every time I have $$ to buy one, the hobby shop is out of stock. and when I don't have the $$, there're in stock. anyway, yea, I broken 2 pipes already because they fall apart. it's exactly what jam said, they can't take that much heat for that much time.
 
BigbadLeo, I'll be curious what you think of that pipe...specifically if there is a temp change (i.e. if youn don't mind let us know if your engine runs any hotter/cooler with the same needle settings compared with the stock pipe). Thx
 
rcnut14 said:
I belive there are threads on this pipe somewhere on here, @bigbadleo. many people have used that pipe. it's the one that comes stock on the savage xl and the x 4.6 ss
Click to expand...

Having a direct apples to apples comparison will tell how effective the pipe is at scavenging and how well it boost the efficiency of the engine. Which would be useful if you have the stock composite pipe as a baseline.
 
i don't know how i can compare it as i one just got the high speed set up, but i will get it out tomorrow and see if there is a different from the short time i had it running 😉
 
I'm running that same pipe, love it, it sounds great and performs very well, ive just stuck it on my lrp engine

i ran my f 4.6 with that awful plastic pipe for a while and you can tell the difference straight away when you put the hpi tuned pipe on, more noise and more power
 
I agree with Jr it's all about heads up (comparisons). The difference I've seen is inline vs component (not plastic vs alum or tuned vs non-tuned). Component pipes are like the stock Savage big bores, IMO. They work as good as anything out of the box..but problems arise quickly.
 
Any screws going into metal should be loctited. It's a worthwhile investment to check all fasteners on your savage and loctite those that need it.
 
How are your cup-joints? I ask because I ran mine for ~5 gallons without thread-locking and neither came out. I was obviously lucky but I'd make sure the sleeve or something isn't worn on yours, Once something usually vibrates out on its own like that...the threading can go bad. Thead lock will keep it in, but might not hurt to see if there was any other damage. I'm such a believer i thread lock, I use an acetone activator along with that wicking-lock on key plastic parts,. If he hardware stay in place, damage is greatly reduced so as stated, lock the sh*t out of everything.,.
 
I use the hell outta my loctite, I have blue, I got the large bottle at the auto parts store.... I think I paid like 12.99 for the bottle and like these guys say, ANYTHING that is a metal to metal connection needs to have it.......
Just think you are running your truck and everything is fine, you take a jump and next thing you rig is all wonky and sitting weird, all the chassis screws can and will back out eventually and you could actually damage the chassis due to a couple lost screws....
I never rely on the manufacturer to properly locktite my stuff I do it myself and never seem to have much trouble with my rigs holding together.....
 
You can do it 1 screw at a time and be just fine.... is tedious and time consuming but just take off the wheels and tires and start in one place and do 1 at a time.....you don't need gobs of it, just a drop on the threads and reinstall the screw...... let it set up a day and you will be ready to go....
One of my rigs has 17mmm nuts holding on the wheels and they were loose when I got it too so I just coated the threads on the hex and let it dry without putting on the wheels yet, next day I put the wheels on and the nuts have not come off without permission from my wrench as yet....
Like anything it is just good insurance, of course you have to go thru the rig once in awhile and check fasteners but thats a normal part of my routine anyway.....
 
The Savage X can be thread-locked in under 15 minutes (well under once you get used to it). Let me know if you would like me to list them out and how to access them. This wicking-grade dries in ~15 minutes. Obviously popular in the race scene. I also use Zap Z-42. Strongest stuff by far that I've tried. In 30 minutes you can run it. I wouldn't try back-flips off your ramp for a few hours...but assuming the part is okay 30-60 minutes and your fine (that has been my experience with it, at least)

Jam...sounds like you machines are pretty durable
 
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