Looking for help with 17mm wheel nut conversion

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bull8042

Active Member
Messages
73
Location
Fort Mill, SC
I have decided to stay with the factory XL dogbones for the drive shafts instead of converting to a CVD. But I still have a burning desire to get rid of the cheesy little flanged locknuts that are standard on the Savage trucks.
I have already purchased a set of Ofna 17mm Wheel Hub Adapters (15mm extension) and only need to swap out my axle shafts to complete the conversion properly. So I ordered the HPI axle shafts (86393) and are the same parts that come with the HPI Hex Hub Conversion (87229). Problem is, they are for the smaller dogbones! :stressed:
I can use the Ofna adapters with the factory XL shafts if I drill another hole in the shaft and not use the spacer. But that is kind of a cheesy solution. I would really prefer to have an axle shaft like the one shown in the picture below, but for the XL dogbones with the 11mm ball. Does anyone have a part number? I can't seem to find a part like this....

.
 
You could just go with the 23 mm conversion. It uses a the same axles and dogbones and is much tougher then 17mm. It gets rid of the flanged nut.
 
You could just go with the 23 mm conversion. It uses a the same axles and dogbones and is much tougher then 17mm. It gets rid of the flanged nut.

I thought about that, but if I went that route I would not be able to share wheels with my son. Plus I would not be able to run the ones I already have, which would mean having to spend another wad on new wheels.

ld try the Flux axles. HPI part # 86928

Yeah, those are correct for the larger dogbones. But are also the same as what came on the truck. It is looking like I am just going to have to cut the threaded ends off my factory axles and drill a new hole for the pin so the Ofna adapters sit snug against the bearing.
If I end up going this route, I will document it well and put a little write-up here in case anyone else is interested.
 
I thought about that, but if I went that route I would not be able to share wheels with my son. Plus I would not be able to run the ones I already have, which would mean having to spend another wad on new wheels.



Yeah, those are correct for the larger dogbones. But are also the same as what came on the truck. It is looking like I am just going to have to cut the threaded ends off my factory axles and drill a new hole for the pin so the Ofna adapters sit snug against the bearing.
If I end up going this route, I will document it well and put a little write-up here in case anyone else is interested.

The Flux axles are different than the XL axles, which I'm assuming you have cuz that's what you mentioned in the first post. The flux axles are regular length like the non SHD axles and dogbones and compared to the extended version that comes with the XL. You can find flux axles on ebay for really cheap and you shouldn't have to cut the threaded part off to use them with the ofna hexes. I'd suggest checkin with your LHS first too see if they have any in stock to see if they'd work better for you.
 
The Flux axles are different than the XL axles, which I'm assuming you have cuz that's what you mentioned in the first post. The flux axles are regular length like the non SHD axles and dogbones and compared to the extended version that comes with the XL. You can find flux axles on ebay for really cheap and you shouldn't have to cut the threaded part off to use them with the ofna hexes. I'd suggest checkin with your LHS first too see if they have any in stock to see if they'd work better for you.

Ah. OK, now I understand. I do have the XL as you surmised, and I think I have found a solution that will use the existing hole in the XL axle shaft. I am going to drill a hole through the hex on the Ofna adapters and tap it 4mm and use 2 dog-point set screws that will engage the existing hole in the axle and lock the adapter in place. That will leave a gap between the adapter and the inner bearing race of approx 4.4mm that I can shim.
The thing I hate about the bearing mounting on the axles is that the outer races are seated in the uprights, but a gap exists between the inner races. That is why HPI leaves side-to-side play in the axles. If you remove the play the way it is currently, you effectively force the inner races together and side-load the bearing. Not good for the bearings.
I am installing a set of Boca ceramics this week and will shim the inner races so that I can properly shim the adapter and remove all side-to-side play in the axle without side-loading the bearings. Is this clear as mud?
 

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