update with video, what is my truck doing

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scameron

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i finally got a video of my truck running. a while back i posted here about being frustrated with it. https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16405.

a couple things in the video. the glow plug ignitor came with a different truck i purchased recently. it doesn't like to stay on the glow plug. the new one i bought doesn't seem to hold a charge. at 3:20 i double check the setting on the LSN and set it to factory (2 out). then a few seconds later i turn it out another complete turn (now 3 out). the HSN is at 3 out. my brakes takes several seconds to kick in also i've noticed. the video is a little shaker. my 11 year old nephew is recording.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjIFfmCqLJs
 
first off , has anyone showed you how to use a glow igniter ?
I can't see why you would have to push down on it like that , unless you didn't have it locked in
(you can remove the battery from your glow plug so you don't burn out the plug) test with spare plug , grab the end with a pair of pliers , open the end of the glow igniter by pulling on the spring insert the plug , let go of the spring on the igniter , you should now have a plug locked on to the end of the glow igniter
and it should not come loose . if you have dirt or oil at the end of your glow igniter that will effect how it works , so keep it clean.

as for the tuning , download the manual for that motor , reset all the needles to factory and start again , be patent with the tuning , just don't start turning the needles in and out to hope that it works , there is a process of how the needles work though . watch some you tube videos on tuning , they are very helpful .

when all else fails restart and do it again .
 
that igniter is worn or something. it will not clamp to a plug and stay there. i need to purchase a reliable one.
 
Do not turn the needles a full turn at a time. I posted on your other thread I believe. You need to set all the needles to factory settings first. If the motor is broken in this will probably be too rich, usually you can go 1 full turn clockwise on the HSN (only the HSN) to lean it enough so that the motor will not flood when trying to start. That alone should get you close enough that the motor will run. Then tune the HSN first to get proper temps. Then tune the LSN for good throttle response. Then adjust idle. Do everything in that order and you be able to get it running reliably.

1-Factory settings on all needles
2-If motor floods lean the HSN (clockwise) one full turn. (Only if motor is broken in properly!)
3-Tune the HSN for proper temps.
4-Tune LSN for good throttle response.
5-Adjust idle.
6-Check temps under various running conditions to make sure your final settings are good.

This is the process I use and it works for me! Once the LSN and idle screw are set you shouldn't have to mess with them much at all. Your main concern will be the HSN for day to day adjustments for different weather conditions and such. It's very easy to get the LSN and idle screw messed up so make very small adjustments there (1/16th turn increments or even less) and use 1/12th turn increments when tuning the HSN. Make a few passes between each adjustment and check your temps each time! Good luck.
 
scameron said:
i finally got a video of my truck running. a while back i posted here about being frustrated with it. https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16405.

a couple things in the video. the glow plug ignitor came with a different truck i purchased recently. it doesn't like to stay on the glow plug. the new one i bought doesn't seem to hold a charge. at 3:20 i double check the setting on the LSN and set it to factory (2 out). then a few seconds later i turn it out another complete turn (now 3 out). the HSN is at 3 out. my brakes takes several seconds to kick in also i've noticed. the video is a little shaker. my 11 year old nephew is recording.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjIFfmCqLJs
Click to expand...

Hey scameron...
Truck looks good bud...
I hope you've been told or have learned abit about the importance of a propper brake-in for your mill.(engine)

If you care for an extended life with good proformance, you'll want to get a temp gun and keep a small record of your "'start to stop engine" history while reaching 225 degrees before each stop.

Your goal here is to get the engine to reach 225 degreees asap and then let the engine cool completely before every restart.
This is reffered to as a "Heat cycle".

In short, heat cyclling helps temper your piston and sleeve while keeping a tight as possible "pinch".

Just remember to keep the fuel as rich as possible for good lubrication and to allways put the piston in the BDC "bottom dead center" position during each cool-down.
On your 4.6 mill, I would run at least a 1/2 gallon of fuel before making proper needle settings.

I hope this was helpful... Good Luck.
 
engine was already broken in by previous owner. i have been doing a ton of reading and this has become a real learning process. question, with the engine at factory settings, the truck wants to run away. if i do a wot and let off it keeps going for several seconds. with the truck idling on the ground, pick it up and the throttle takes off.
 
First off, is your carb opening set to a 1mm minimum? When the carb is fully closed the idle set screw should prevent the carb from closing all the way, by about 1mm. That way the motor doesn't die when you hit the brakes. Make sure your carb opening (idle set screw) is set properly, then follow the steps I posted above.
 
Some thing to keep in mind ::
But when pulling the pull start don't pull it like a lawn mower, chainsaw ect ect ..
just FLICK your wrist, you only have like 30cm to play with, when i first got my pull start i started it like a chain saw, i picked the savy up by the middle roll bar pulled the pull start and dropped the savy like a chain saw BAM ! broken pull start..

and yes as said in previous posts start back at factory settings, adjust the HSn then go from there LSN and idle should be good at stock (is for me) use the throttle trim if you have to on a cold start ..

savy looks good rockout
 
the guys are guiding you good. you may also experience mid tank lean with that motor and the stock savage tank. I'm not going into all this just yet while your still learning. just as you lear keep the tank from the middle (half full) to the top (full) this will keep MTL from messing with you as you learn.

Also I agree about the type of glow ignighter you have there. They stink to say the least. If you replace it (again) get a hotshot 2 its a twist lock type and very reliable. Lock it on and no need to hold it. If its charged you are glowing no questions asked!

Take a look http://www.hobbico.com/fieldequip/hcap2520.html

I have 2 of these. Ill never use the other type again.
HCAP2520 Standard Hot-Shot 2 1500 mAh Sanyo NiCd 2-1/4" shaft
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ok guys, brought the truck to work were i have open field. first off the factory setting have to be wrong for the LSN. i set it as indicated and the truck would take off. you pick it up while idling and the truck would rev up. i throw a temp gauge on it and read 265 only 30 seconds after starting the truck cold and no wot runs. i turned the LSN 1/8 out and noticed it setting down a little. turned it again and it improved. ended at about 3/8. so 2.5 out for the LSN has to be right. i don't think 2.5 is correct either but i wanted it to run well enough so i could adjust the HSN. after a couple wot runs, i noticed the throttle hanging. so i went 1/12 out on the HSN. performance improved. out again and it picked up more power. i messed with it till i felt it was right. the throttle still feels like it is hanging. but i did notice it would drop right after wot throttle and come right back up. this means the LSN is correct right? my temp gauge battery died so i wasn't able to check it. i ran that tank out.

also, my dog bone on the left front wants to come out of the cup while making turns. are they too short or something. they seem like it to me.
 
No, the idle should drop after WOT passes and stay there, it should not rise back up. Also you still haven't told us if you have removed your air filter and checked the carb opening. This could be making your truck want to take off. Richening the LSN will mask a carb being open too far because your just flooding the mill with more fuel causing the idle to drop, even if the carb is still not set right!
 
Sounds like as usual good advice. A hint with the glow plug lighter holding on the glow plug. At the end of the lighter, with needle nose bend in the three tabs slightly until it stays on the plug. Also try running a little w/ the lighter attached.Other wise make sure smoke is good from exsaust!Good luck!
 
MikeK1981 said:
No, the idle should drop after WOT passes and stay there, it should not rise back up. Also you still haven't told us if you have removed your air filter and checked the carb opening. This could be making your truck want to take off. Richening the LSN will mask a carb being open too far because your just flooding the mill with more fuel causing the idle to drop, even if the carb is still not set right!
Click to expand...

i might have the carb opening a little big. i've been checking it. i set it at a little more then a 1/32. 1mm is almost half way between 1/32 and 1/16. i believe with that setting and the LSN at 2 out (FS) it wanted to take off. i'll double check that.

i have to fix the axles on the front. my driveshaft wants to come out when the wheels are turned. any ideas on this one?
 
nitrobashin said:
Sounds like as usual good advice. A hint with the glow plug lighter holding on the glow plug. At the end of the lighter, with needle nose bend in the three tabs slightly until it stays on the plug. Also try running a little w/ the lighter attached.Other wise make sure smoke is good from exsaust!Good luck!
Click to expand...


thanks nitro. i thought about doing so with the lighter.
 
scameron said:
i might have the carb opening a little big. i've been checking it. i set it at a little more then a 1/32. 1mm is almost half way between 1/32 and 1/16. i believe with that setting and the LSN at 2 out (FS) it wanted to take off. i'll double check that.

i have to fix the axles on the front. my driveshaft wants to come out when the wheels are turned. any ideas on this one?
Click to expand...

What do you mean by this? That you set the opening at 1/32 OF AN INCH, or did you turn the screw 1/32 of a turn? Either way this isn't the typical way of doing it. You need to look down the throat of the carb, close the slide (either by hand or with the servo) and make sure the gap in the intake is about 1mm. No less, or the motor will probably die when you hit the brakes.
 
Sorry for the multiple posts, but I just wanted to say that this is an important step and all the tuning you do can be for nothing if this is not set right to start with.
 
MikeK1981 said:
What do you mean by this? That you set the opening at 1/32 OF AN INCH, or did you turn the screw 1/32 of a turn? Either way this isn't the typical way of doing it. You need to look down the throat of the carb, close the slide (either by hand or with the servo) and make sure the gap in the intake is about 1mm. No less, or the motor will probably die when you hit the brakes.
Click to expand...

set the opening at little more then 1/32. i popped the filter off and set the gap on the slide. pushed the slide completely closed then turned the idle screw till i had what i felt was 1mm. the motor doesn't die when i hit the brakes. actually my brakes don't want to kick in. i need to adjust them i think.
 
Yeah, adjust the brakes with the thumb screw on the end of the linkage, and if you don't have enough adjustment you can bend the shaft slightly that the linkage pulls on to apply the brakes. OK sounds like you have that where it's supposed to be, my next suggetion would be to make absolutely sure you have the right factory settings. Make sure you got them from the manual, or from the manufacturer, and not from somewhere (or someone) else. Other than that the steps I said before should work unless there is something mechanically wrong with the mill, like a bad seal somewhere (air leak), or something like that.
 
I don't know, you might try a less than 1mm gap just to see if you can get it running that way. I see no mention in those instructions about setting the gap! Maybe someone else will chime in on this, but I think that usually 1mm is pretty standard on big blocks. It may work with a little less though.
 
MikeK1981 said:
I don't know, you might try a less than 1mm gap just to see if you can get it running that way. I see no mention in those instructions about setting the gap! Maybe someone else will chime in on this, but I think that usually 1mm is pretty standard on big blocks. It may work with a little less though.
Click to expand...

thanks a ton Mike. i've read that manual forward and backwards. yeah doesn't make mention of the gap. once i get the axle fixed i'll be running it again. there is a local shop that should have a new one. not sure what has happened to it. maybe the drive shaft is bent or something. i'll take it apart and inspect it.
 
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