Finding That Old Brake Cam Mod

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B-Woo

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64
I Have Two Questions.

One: I'm Looking for a old post/article link where the owner of the savage drill a hole in the brake cam so that he could fit a stock savage shock shaft instead of the original black linkage rod. end result was a stronger brake linkage and i'd like to try it.

Two: Their are two style breke cams for the savage, the original savage 21 part #86092 and the newer savage xl part #86930. i have broke the savage 21 brake cam the other day while working on the brakes and transmission for my upcomming project. so i would like to know if there are any differance between the one in the .21 and the xl ( i do not think there should be, they both use the same transmission).


thank you any are answers greatly appreciated
 
I had this mod. I found the upright is stronger and you snap off the cam rod. No need for this mod...
 
has anyone attempted a duel-disc brake system using both the front and rear of the trans/hex?

that would be insane braking power if it could be done? hmmm
maybe after i finish my custom igniton system using a sub-c battery, momentary swtch and charge jack, ill see if it can be done or not?
 
I don't see the point in double side brakes unless you are running a center diff. The dual fiber kit will endo an stock chassis truck into a cartwheel with the proper servo.
 
Yeah my dual red fiber setup, with the SF-2, servo will endo my XL with Goliath tires/Tremor wheels (heavy) very easily. That's not even that strong of a servo, I see no need for more braking power then what I already have. I have to tone it down with mechanical adjustments or with my 3PM Tx just so it doesn't flip over every time I hit the stoppers LOL.
 
I still want to try to do this one, I think that the steel one off the savage xl will be strong enough to not snap compared to the alum ones. I just wanted to make sure that the xl ones would work.
 
I still want to try to do this one, I think that the steel one off the savage xl will be strong enough to not snap compared to the alum ones. I just wanted to make sure that the xl ones would work.

just drill out the cam rod to the hole size of the shock rod. Not much to read about it. It makes the cam rod paper thin at the sides of the hole. Again its not worth it but have at it..
 
thank you, the parts are different now compared to back when the first person tried it so I think it's worth a 2nd chance. If not it was $4.00 and 15 min of my time, so it should be all good.
 
thank you, the parts are different now compared to back when the first person tried it so I think it's worth a 2nd chance. If not it was $4.00 and 15 min of my time, so it should be all good.

yea the parts now don't need it but like I said have at it ... take pics make a thread.
 
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