Problem starting my Savage X 4.6

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M

magnificent_1

Member
Messages
11
Hi all,

Just as i thought that my servos problems are over,here comes another one.Recently i had problems firing up my truck.Engine have been primed,glow plug is good,nitro are fresh,but still my savage refuse to start.The most irritating part is the roto start!It just won't move when i insert it to the truck!Is the battery for my roto start has run flat?Cos i noticed it will gets hot after some time of starting!

Pls help😢..........
 
i been there Mag_1. wanted to throw my savage into the woods as far as i could and go home.
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then my hpisf bro's helped me & i never looked back.

follow crash's advice & see how it goes. if you need further help, you can tweak your lsn a bit.

because your savage is new & mill (engine) isnt broken in, it has a lot of mechanical "pinch" which is gonna be hard on your roto and drain the battery quickly.

your gonna want to use a drill, but don't. too much power for the one way bearing inside the mill.

switch to a pull start was my first upgrade. man did i hate that roto-start.
 
frddyj said:
your gonna want to use a drill, but don't. Too much power for the one way bearing inside the mill.

Switch to a pull start was my first upgrade. Man did i hate that roto-start.
Click to expand...


only use a drill with clutch setting so, if engine locks up you don't break something
 
I had couple of bad experience with pullstart back in the days when i was so crazy with pocket bikes,so i thought my phobia was over when roto start was invented....
 
Mag1, i just want to point out that the method you use to crank the mill during the starting process is a very small part (& personal preference) in getting that mill to fire up.
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first, you need fresh fuel, the correct & operational glow plug & a properly charged & working glow ignitor.
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second, you need to ensure your fuel & pressure lines are connected, not cut or broken and that your mill is primed & fuel reaching the carb.
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third, your idle gap & low & high speed needle need proper adjustment so you get the correct fuel to air mix (tune)
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fourth, preheat that mill like crash said & it should fire in 2-3 turns of the engine whether pull or roto is used.
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i personally prefer the pull start. if you follow the steps above (barring other issues) the mill will fire right up.

if you prefer the roto, then use it. you can buy a better battery for it.

reason i don't recommend a drill is cause if your mill doesnt start after a couple turns, you need to diagnose the problem. a drill will allow you to keep on turning & turning (which is how i burnt the one way when i was new) which wont help your engine start till you correct the issue causing it not to start.

don't get frustrated! walk away from it for a lil bit. there is a learning curve with these trucks & once you get through it, your in for the time of your life.

😛eace:
 
frddyj said:
Mag1, i just want to point out that the method you use to crank the mill during the starting process is a very small part (& personal preference) in getting that mill to fire up.
.
first, you need fresh fuel, the correct & operational glow plug & a properly charged & working glow ignitor.
.
second, you need to ensure your fuel & pressure lines are connected, not cut or broken and that your mill is primed & fuel reaching the carb.
.
third, your idle gap & low & high speed needle need proper adjustment so you get the correct fuel to air mix (tune)
.
fourth, preheat that mill like crash said & it should fire in 2-3 turns of the engine whether pull or roto is used.
.
.
i personally prefer the pull start. if you follow the steps above (barring other issues) the mill will fire right up.

if you prefer the roto, then use it. you can buy a better battery for it.

reason i don't recommend a drill is cause if your mill doesnt start after a couple turns, you need to diagnose the problem. a drill will allow you to keep on turning & turning (which is how i burnt the one way when i was new) which wont help your engine start till you correct the issue causing it not to start.

don't get frustrated! walk away from it for a lil bit. there is a learning curve with these trucks & once you get through it, your in for the time of your life.

😛eace:
Click to expand...

Great advice frddyj
 
Does the Roto just not turn or does it try and cannot turn the motor over.

If it just doesn't turn: most likely the button is shot. For some reason they wear out and don't get contact like needed when pushed. You can replace the button or add another in a different place and redo the wiring.

If it cannot turn the motor: A better battery will help, Pre-heating will help and loosening the glow plug 1/4 turn will help and tightening once started.

I also prefer pull starts because I don't have to carry that heavy bulky roto around with me, however I have a few trucks that use them. When using a pull start just make sure only to flick your wrist and not pull the rope all the way out or you will have problems with them.

Also, are you using the Rolo Start 2 or the original. The 2 has tons more torque that the original.
 
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Larsenracing said:
Does the Roto just not turn or does it try and cannot turn the motor over.

If it just doesn't turn: most likely the button is shot. For some reason they wear out and don't get contact like needed when pushed. You can replace the button or add another in a different place and redo the wiring.

If it cannot turn the motor: A better battery will help, Pre-heating will help and loosening the glow plug 1/4 turn will help and tightening once started.

I also prefer pull starts because I don't have to carry that heavy bulky roto around with me, however I have a few trucks that use them. When using a pull start just make sure only to flick your wrist and not pull the rope all the way out or you will have problems with them.

Also, are you using the Rolo Start 2 or the original. The 2 has tons more torque that the original.
Click to expand...


My Roto 2 Starter is fine...the battery is charged up.maybe i'll try to pre-heat the mill first,see how it goes!will keep u guys update.if worse still,i guess i'll have to change to a pullstart then...
 
magnificent_1 said:
My Roto 2 Starter is fine...the battery is charged up.maybe i'll try to pre-heat the mill first,see how it goes!will keep u guys update.if worse still,i guess i'll have to change to a pullstart then...
Click to expand...

Also, remember that your mill can flood easily if its settings are rich & your cranking without it firing up. You'll know because your roto will feel like its stalling or wont turn the mill over. Also you might hear a rapping sound.

take out the plug, turn the truck upside down to & crank a few times with roto to evacuate the fuel.

after you re-install the plug, you can loosen it a little bit till she fires then tighten back up. this will reduce the compression a lil bit and roto will turn the mill over a lil easier.
 
take out the plug, turn the truck upside down to & crank a few times with roto to evacuate the fuel.

also make sure the exhaust can breath , nothing in the stinger..and the air filter should be clean and fresh
 
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With my roto start on the 5.9 I had get a More powerful battery then they call for. Also ny engine will just not turn to the point the reset button pops check the red button on the side maybe nee to be reset.Good luck
 
turning the truck over and crank up the engine?wow....i never thought that it will worked!Thank you all for the advice,i will try it later evening and keep u guys posted..
 
At last the engine is up and running,but now gotta hard time adjusting with the 3 little devils!!...(i mean the idling,lsn and hsn needle)

At least i'm on the right track....was so pleased when she's finally roar and came alive!evryone was awake in my neighbourhood cos i crank it up at around 2am in the morning!

Thanks all the brothers and sisters here for your advice!You guys have been a great help!!
 
Bankrupter said:
set that MSN to flush and don't mess with it. its not a needle its the spray bar.
Click to expand...

not to sound like a jerk, but i have had better luck with taking the HSN out and looking down the hsn housing and flushing the MSN, but you have to be able to see the hole in the msn through the HSN housing.
 
adb140275 said:
not to sound like a jerk, but i have had better luck with taking the HSN out and looking down the hsn housing and flushing the MSN, but you have to be able to see the hole in the msn through the HSN housing.
Click to expand...

What are you trying to say here ? You lost me with looking at the back of the spray bar threw the HSN. All the MSN does is set the depth of the spray bar into the carb. LSN has to be adjusted to suit as they work together...

AllanQ said:
If he has the X 4.6, the engine does not have a MSN. Not trying to be a jerk, just don't want any confusion.
Click to expand...

LOL Allan I miss read his post (3 lil devils) I was thinking HSN LSN MSN and ignoring what I was reading... good catch
 
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hammer timeIt seems starting the engine up is easy but to keep it in a stable idling is the hardest part!I have reset the LSN,HSN and the idling screws to factory settings,but still enigne will die off as soon as it starts.and i noticed fuel flowing out from the exhaust.is that normal?
One more question....do i have to switch on main receiver switch and transmitter before cranking up the engine?pls help...

Thanks in advance to all......
 
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