steering ?

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W

WJC

Well-Known Member
Messages
250
Location
USA
Hey guys whats up? haven't posted in a while just been looking around. I took my savage out the other day and noticed that my wheel will not turn left to right while on the ground (and not running). I have 333oz hitec servo can't figure out why Is there anything I can do to tighten up my steering a bit? battery is charged, I replaced the bushing with HPI bearings, I mean everything looks good. I just thought that this servo would move those tires with ease. OH BTW the servo looks good as well. Took it out and put it in another RC of mine and no problem. cornfused
 
With a servo like that I have a feeling your servo saver is being overpowered. You can tighten it down all the way (and loose the saver part) or get the HPI Heavy Duty Spring (pn:102522).
 
Like the guys said, either the servo saver or a stripped servo horn. Since you got it apart, a worthwhile and cheap upgrade is to go with an aluminum servo arm. No more stripped horns, typically you get a little longer arm for more servo throw and slightly better steering response, all for about 6 bucks.
 
this is the same problem i was having when i get a servo saver with the spring and I'm running the 85z Jr servo i couldnt turn wheels.. i found that i cranked down on the linkage screws to tight. I backed off a touch and its fine now.
 
another thing to check is if the screws that are in the linkages can be over-tightened and that will make them bind badly. This was a major DUH for me, and once I got it fixed, it worked like a charm.

The other issue I had was the stock servo saver was a problem as others have pointed out. If you have the plastic steering bellcranks and the servo-saver on the servo itself, then pick up the Savage servo saver steering setup (like this) (for the record, this is not my auction, just an example).

One more issue that will cause steering binding is the cheap plastic bushings in the bellcranks - pick up a set of bearings to replace them - they can be had through SMF - you will need four, but are WELL worth it.

And the last is the clearancing of your steering components. To do this, you use a dremel and remove a bunch of excess plastic around the knuckles, etc that SIGNIFICANTLY increases the throw of your steering - this was the greatest change I made to my truck, and it literally costs nothing (assuming you have a dremel and the necessary bits on hand)

Hope this helps,

Bob
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks guys I just have to see if I can get to it tonight or over the weekend. On second thought I don't want to even touch my truck tonight being it's Friday the 13th
 
WJC said:
Thanks guys I just have to see if I can get to it tonight or over the weekend. On second thought I don't want to even touch my truck tonight being it's Friday the 13th
Click to expand...

I was just ready too take my xl out for a little bahing till you reminded me it was Friday the 13th.:crying:
 
hypnotiq said:
this is the same problem i was having when i get a servo saver with the spring and I'm running the 85z Jr servo i couldnt turn wheels.. i found that i cranked down on the linkage screws to tight. I backed off a touch and its fine now.
Click to expand...


nice tip on losening the screws a bit ..i did same thing to one of my trucks once... the screws that went through the batery box were to tight made the steering cams pinch and bind up .. losen um up and they did fine after that...
 
maximusraylius said:
nice tip on losening the screws a bit ..i did same thing to one of my trucks once... the screws that went through the batery box were to tight made the steering cams pinch and bind up .. losen um up and they did fine after that...
Click to expand...

i have the truck apart and noticed that when I turn the wheels by hand from right to left it binds but going the other way (turning the wheels left to right) I'm fine. It seems that the side where the spring is is the part that is binding. everything else looks fine. Going to loosen the screws a bit.
 
(Also posted this in electronics by accident but I figured I would try it here as well, since this is where I asked the question originally.)

OK so I need this for a SF-5 servo right? Just want to be sure.

R17003 - Robitronic Aluminum Servo Arm (Futaba) - $14.00

That is from Bank's link, but any futaba style arm will work with the SF-5? I just stripped my plastic one. I had the servo saver cranked down LOL. I have the HD spring coming for the servo saver and I'll loosen it up once I get the HD spring in there.
 
Well I checked my screws and everything looks good, not to tight not to loose. Could it be that my spring is not set right?
 
WJC said:
Well I checked my screws and everything looks good, not to tight not to loose. Could it be that my spring is not set right?
Click to expand...

Are you using the servo-saver bell crank? Purple with a spring on the bottom?

One thing I did to figure out where the binding is this:

1) Leave everything together, and swing it side to side.
2) take off the shocks, set the tie rods level (like sit it on the table, etc) and test - this will help you see if the rod ends are binding
3) take off the tie rods from the steering bar, and check again - that will help you see if the carriers are binding.

I would also check the upper and lower screws on the carriers as well - common misconception is that they need to be TIGHT - weel, if you over tighten them, the steering gets tight as well, and that causes all sorts of down-stream effects.

Remember, especially in suspension and steering, for every issue, it can cause a different symptom. For example, if the screws in your carriers are too tight, then it will make the steering work harder which can blow the servo-saver mounted to your servo. You think the problem is the servo-saver, but it is just caused by a different problem, so be thorough when troubleshooting 🙂

Bob
 
WJC said:
Got a 1600 hump pack
Click to expand...


well thats not it then. do as orcusasomega said remove wheels servo tie rod ends. now you are dealing with the carriers alone if they move nice and smooth you have reuled that out. than start putting it back together one pice at a time checking the carriers on every step you will find your issue during one of theis steps.just look close and examin closer. it shure sounds like something simple is wrong here and when you find it you will be like duh.
 
In my experience, the number one cause of personal frustration and failure to find the real cause of a problem is ME - me going "nah, it couldn't be that, that's too obvious" LOL.

If you get frustrated, like me, just walk away for a while, then come back later, always works for me 🙂

Bob
 
orcusomega said:
Are you using the servo-saver bell crank? Purple with a spring on the bottom?

One thing I did to figure out where the binding is this:

1) Leave everything together, and swing it side to side.
2) take off the shocks, set the tie rods level (like sit it on the table, etc) and test - this will help you see if the rod ends are binding
3) take off the tie rods from the steering bar, and check again - that will help you see if the carriers are binding.

I would also check the upper and lower screws on the carriers as well - common misconception is that they need to be TIGHT - weel, if you over tighten them, the steering gets tight as well, and that causes all sorts of down-stream effects.

Remember, especially in suspension and steering, for every issue, it can cause a different symptom. For example, if the screws in your carriers are too tight, then it will make the steering work harder which can blow the servo-saver mounted to your servo. You think the problem is the servo-saver, but it is just caused by a different problem, so be thorough when troubleshooting 🙂

Bob
Click to expand...

Well yes I believe so. I have the savage XSS Kit and the so ya if its like the one you posted a pic of then yes it looks the same, purple with a spring on the bottom. Also when you mentioned "check the upper and lower screws on the carriers" wich screws are you talking about? Not to sound stupid I'm just not sure which ones.
 
When you look at the bearing carrier/outer hub, there are two screws, one on the top and one on the bottom, that hold the carrier to the suspension. They act like a pin to allow the carriers to turn with the steering. They are pretty long, so if you back each of them off like 1/4 turn, you should be able to tell if that was causing your problem.

Bob
 
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