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Most of this footage is just me trying to tune the thing. After my last outing, I wanted to set fire to it.
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/2019-05-04-savage-x-lrp30-grass-bmx-bash.19327/
Had a myriad of issues, noted in that thread.
This is the first run after tearing the engine down, cleaning it thoroughly (found a bit of plastic in the HSN), checking o-rings, throwing some associated slime on them and RTV'ing the backplate/carb/carb banjo fitting. I replaced the fuel/pressure lines as well as installed a new associated primer bulb. Have always had good luck with those. I also put on a new set of dynamite 7075 shoes and relatively heavy springs.
When I put the engine back in, I had set the needles to at least 1 turn richer than stock, but I think even more so on both. The HSN was flush with the brass housing and the LSN was a turn out from flush with the inner tube the needle goes in. Out of the gate, it was acting/sounding lean.
By the end of the video, I had burned 625cc's of fuel.
It's better now than it was during the previous run, but still iffy at times. I've geared down to 15/47 to run the trencher 3.8's. The bell is already toast. Was a tekno hardened 15T. It lasted 1500 cc's of run time. I had issue getting the engine over enough to mesh it as tight as I wanted, so it was a touch too loose. That probably contributed to the bell dying so fast. I'm not sure if I was hitting the end of the motor plate slots or what. I couldn't see the engine making contact with anything, but it wouldn't move closer. I had raised the engine 2mm with spacers as the bell was making contact with the brake disks.
I think I'll try replacing the tires/wheels with something a bit smaller OD and lighter, like the traxxas maxx 3.3 tires/wheels. The tune seems relatively stable, but it just seems to labor so much, especially in 2nd gear. Just feels a lot more sluggish than I think it should be and if I tune a hair more lean, it becomes marginally more responsive, but then I get lean bog when I punch the throttle from a stop and a hanging high idle.
It's acting kind of how I remember the LRP28S3 acting back when I had my aftershock and I installed a set of a buddies muggy tires/wheels on it. Just caused the truck to work really hard.
I do have a brand new set of revo talons somewhere that I never ran on my ERBE, maybe I'll give those a try and see how it does, when I get a new bell and engine plate. I noticed when putting the engine back in that the engine plate is cracked right under the PS. Should be getting those parts this week.
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/2019-05-04-savage-x-lrp30-grass-bmx-bash.19327/
Had a myriad of issues, noted in that thread.
This is the first run after tearing the engine down, cleaning it thoroughly (found a bit of plastic in the HSN), checking o-rings, throwing some associated slime on them and RTV'ing the backplate/carb/carb banjo fitting. I replaced the fuel/pressure lines as well as installed a new associated primer bulb. Have always had good luck with those. I also put on a new set of dynamite 7075 shoes and relatively heavy springs.
When I put the engine back in, I had set the needles to at least 1 turn richer than stock, but I think even more so on both. The HSN was flush with the brass housing and the LSN was a turn out from flush with the inner tube the needle goes in. Out of the gate, it was acting/sounding lean.
By the end of the video, I had burned 625cc's of fuel.
It's better now than it was during the previous run, but still iffy at times. I've geared down to 15/47 to run the trencher 3.8's. The bell is already toast. Was a tekno hardened 15T. It lasted 1500 cc's of run time. I had issue getting the engine over enough to mesh it as tight as I wanted, so it was a touch too loose. That probably contributed to the bell dying so fast. I'm not sure if I was hitting the end of the motor plate slots or what. I couldn't see the engine making contact with anything, but it wouldn't move closer. I had raised the engine 2mm with spacers as the bell was making contact with the brake disks.
I think I'll try replacing the tires/wheels with something a bit smaller OD and lighter, like the traxxas maxx 3.3 tires/wheels. The tune seems relatively stable, but it just seems to labor so much, especially in 2nd gear. Just feels a lot more sluggish than I think it should be and if I tune a hair more lean, it becomes marginally more responsive, but then I get lean bog when I punch the throttle from a stop and a hanging high idle.
It's acting kind of how I remember the LRP28S3 acting back when I had my aftershock and I installed a set of a buddies muggy tires/wheels on it. Just caused the truck to work really hard.
I do have a brand new set of revo talons somewhere that I never ran on my ERBE, maybe I'll give those a try and see how it does, when I get a new bell and engine plate. I noticed when putting the engine back in that the engine plate is cracked right under the PS. Should be getting those parts this week.