x4.6 engine tuning problems

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Scottbot302

Scottbot302

Active Member
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71
Location
Somewhere in Illinois
So my savage has been fine up until about a month ago, where things have totally gone to crap. Started her up today (2/5/17) and was having some poor performance (seemed it was running rich, no surprise there) went to re tune and things have gone to complete crap. The thing can idle good but the second I let off the brakes the thing goes on its own. People have told me repeatedly that it's in the low speed needle. After about an hour of just trying to get that tuned. it seemed all it was doing was raising/lowering the idle! The thing still went on its own! I'm still confused on why this is happening. Even when I had the thing tuned good it went on its own!! I just cant stop it! Its frustrated me so freaking much I've actually started looking into new engines, its gotten on my nerves so much. I've gotten so mad at this thing and I still don't know what the problem is! Bad Carb? Air leak? Little to no Compression? I. Don't. Know. PLEASE if you know anything about my problem drop a comment

Heres a vid of it going on its own (NO THROTTLE) and then stalling
 
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/list-of-useful-nitro-engine-threads.13941/

There is a tuning guide in that thread I linked. read thru all of it and see if anything helps.....
it explains idle gap, low end and high end tuning....
I would also recommend doing your starting with the trucks wheels off the ground so it doesn't leave while you are attempting to get it running....
a 4x4 with a 2x4 screwed together works decent for a makeshift stand of sorts..
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/list-of-useful-nitro-engine-threads.13941/

There is a tuning guide in that thread I linked. read thru all of it and see if anything helps.....
it explains idle gap, low end and high end tuning....
I would also recommend doing your starting with the trucks wheels off the ground so it doesn't leave while you are attempting to get it running....
a 4x4 with a 2x4 screwed together works decent for a makeshift stand of sorts..
Click to expand...

I've tried the off ground thing a couple times but it's always the same result truck just keeps spinning its wheels and revving up
 
I don't know how old the truck is, check tuning like mentioned but, also, might check clutch springs to make sure one isn't broken or weak. also, checking while motor is out is a good time to make sure header gasket between header and motor isn't cracked, wore out, and falling apart, that will wreak havoc on a tune.
 
J.LO's SAVAGE X said:
I don't know how old the truck is, check tuning like mentioned but, also, might check clutch springs to make sure one isn't broken or weak. also, checking while motor is out is a good time to make sure header gasket between header and motor isn't cracked, wore out, and falling apart, that will wreak havoc on a tune.
Click to expand...

Things not to old, got it from a guy that barely used it. I wanna say maybe a year or so old? I'm still going to record it on Friday (If I got time) and see. I also know the clutch bell looks pretty worn so that'll be needing replacing.
 
Just Ordered a new clutch bell and clutch shoes. Going to put them on as soon as they arrive. Unfortunately the clutch shoes were on back order so idk when they will arrive
 
Hey guys quick question about the 4.6, how do you all seal your engines? I know there is an Oring on the backplate but mine still oozes this weird grey liquid after a few tanks, and I'm not sure what that is or why it does that.

Anything helps haha thanks
 
NitroNick said:
Hey guys quick question about the 4.6, how do you all seal your engines? I know there is an Oring on the backplate but mine still oozes this weird grey liquid after a few tanks, and I'm not sure what that is or why it does that.

Anything helps haha thanks
Click to expand...

I would check the link Jam sent but I hear solder works pretty well. Never had a problem like you're having
 
Scottbot302 said:
I would check the link Jam sent but I hear solder works pretty well. Never had a problem like you're having
Click to expand...

Please explain using solder. Not sure how that could be done considering all the rubber/ plastic parts.
 
there are actually 2 o rings in the backing plate the other is sealing the shaft on the, when you take off backing plate, slide shaft out, it seals the shaft. hope that helps. o rings may need replaced
 
X said:
Please explain using solder. Not sure how that could be done considering all the rubber/ plastic parts.
Click to expand...

Like I said I'm not 100% sure this works it's just what I have heard going around. But basically I think you just use it and drip and spread it into the places that need sealing, then wait for it to dry. It should make a nice little airtight seal.
 
Scottbot302 said:
Like I said I'm not 100% sure this works it's just what I have heard going around. But basically I think you just use it and drip and spread it into the places that need sealing, then wait for it to dry. It should make a nice little airtight seal.
Click to expand...


Seems like alot of work using some unproven solder trick when a few dabs of well placed hi temp silicone sealant can do the job easier and more efficiently....
 
Scottbot302 said:
Like I said I'm not 100% sure this works it's just what I have heard going around. But basically I think you just use it and drip and spread it into the places that need sealing, then wait for it to dry. It should make a nice little airtight seal.
Click to expand...

Yeah, not sure who you heard the solder usage from, but I'm 99.9% sure I wouldn't use solder to seal anything. If it even sticks to the areas you want to seal, it will harden and make the surface more non-uniform and make it leak even worse.

If it wasn't used much for a while, your tank filter may be clogged up. Might want to try rigging something up on your fuel line to push fuel back up the line, which will help declog a filter, then rinse the tank out and try it again. After that, set the engine needles back to break in settings which should be overly rich and cause it to labor when idling, then tune from that point.
 
Scottbot302 said:
Like I said I'm not 100% sure this works it's just what I have heard going around. But basically I think you just use it and drip and spread it into the places that need sealing, then wait for it to dry. It should make a nice little airtight seal.
Click to expand...

Not a uniform seal. Unless you use solder paste, you can't spread solder. And if you do use solder paste you then have to heat it for it to set....bad idea around plastic and rubber..... Also, when metal is compressed, it cracks.... definitely not a good seal.

I will give this idea of solder as an engine seal my official "Dumbest Idea of the Year" award! :facepalm:
 
X said:
Not a uniform seal. Unless you use solder paste, you can't spread solder. And if you do use solder paste you then have to heat it for it to set....bad idea around plastic and rubber..... Also, when metal is compressed, it cracks.... definitely not a good seal.

I will give this idea of solder as an engine seal my official "Dumbest Idea of the Year" award! :facepalm:
Click to expand...

Jesus Christ it was just something I HEARD works on areas around the backplate. Never done it
 
Scottbot302 said:
Jesus Christ it was just something I HEARD works on areas around the backplate. Never done it
Click to expand...

Perhaps you should understand something before telling others about it? Common sense really....
 
X said:
Not a uniform seal. Unless you use solder paste, you can't spread solder. And if you do use solder paste you then have to heat it for it to set....bad idea around plastic and rubber..... Also, when metal is compressed, it cracks.... definitely not a good seal.

I will give this idea of solder as an engine seal my official "Dumbest Idea of the Year" award! :facepalm:
Click to expand...

they do actually have a way of sweating copper water pipes together with solder.
maybe that was supposed to be the general idea.
don't think i would tear after my high$ motors with a torch, though
 
ok so back to what this thread was originally meant for. I decided to just skip the start/run video and went ahead and took the clutch bell off to examine the rest of the clutch components, here's what I found:
IMG_0844.JPG
Looks to me like the top right clutch shoe has become lose or broke and started wearing against the clutch bell. Since it is out of position it was moving the others as well. So I think I just found my problem. I have new clutch shoes and springs on the way, but it looks like I may need a tool for the shoe springs.
 

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All you need to install the clutch springs is a small screwdriver..... I took one and modified it with a small cut in the center to hold the spring end a bit better.....
Be careful and do it slowly or you may puncture a finger in the process...
 
Jam Racing 1 said:
All you need to install the clutch springs is a small screwdriver..... I took one and modified it with a small cut in the center to hold the spring end a bit better.....
Be careful and do it slowly or you may puncture a finger in the process...
Click to expand...

Alright good to know. I think I have some torquing gloves that'll help protect my hands and help with the removal of the springs. Thanks jam and J.LO!
 
oh, a little help on the clutches. after your first clutch and spring is installed, use a alen to put between the clutch and nut, it make putting the next inline clutch and spring on, easier.
 
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