Stripped thread

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raymond

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One of the roll bar screws (the ones that go into the gearbox casing) is stripped. It came this way from the factory. What would be the best way to fix this? I was thinking about applying JB weld.

Imagine working in a factory building rc trucks and not knowing how to properly tighten a screw. Hpi really skimped on their last run. I don't know when they are going to realise that plastic sucks for threads and they should at least come with inserts... oh wait... that means they would have to spend more money!

Edit: And I know full well that other manufacturers use plastic for most stuff. What bugs me are stripped screws and threads from the factory.
Sorry for the rant.
 
I find that a piece of small zip tie into the hole works
Even with a drop of ca glue along with the zip tie then tighten the screw up
 
I have read CA weakens the plastic. Will plastic metal work in this case?

This might sound stupid but hear me out. I was thinking about takin some nylon shavings and melting them with some acetone, then putting them in the hole, closing it. Then I was thinking about drilling a hole a reinserting the screw cutting the new thread as I tighten it. Will this work??
 
raymond said:
I have read CA weakens the plastic. Will plastic metal work in this case?

This might sound stupid but hear me out. I was thinking about takin some nylon shavings and melting them with some acetone, then putting them in the hole, closing it. Then I was thinking about drilling a hole a reinserting the screw cutting the new thread as I tighten it. Will this work??
Click to expand...

You will be much better off just using a longer screw
 
upbasher1 said:
You will be much better off just using a longer screw
Click to expand...
Thanks again for the reply.
Sorry for being stubborn, but I don't quite like the idea of putting in a larger screw.
I have read it will strip just the same.
I will be trying araldite and will make sure to update you. I have been told I can fill the hole with araldite, coat the screw with a little bit of vaseline then tighten it while the araldite is still soft. It will basically create a new thread. I have also been told araldite is insanely good and will last for ages.
 
raymond said:
Thanks again for the reply.
Sorry for being stubborn, but I don't quite like the idea of putting in a larger screw.
I have read it will strip just the same.
I will be trying araldite and will make sure to update you. I have been told I can fill the hole with araldite, coat the screw with a little bit of vaseline then tighten it while the araldite is still soft. It will basically create a new thread. I have also been told araldite is insanely good and will last for ages.
Click to expand...

No problem man. That sounds like a good idea, I hope it works really well for you
 
Ok. Good news.. I think. We went ahead and bought Araldite Rapid. It claims full strength in 2 hours. Cost me EUR6.5.
We tried it on a small piece of plastic by drilling two holes of the same diameter in it. Before Araldite, the screws would go right through (snug fit) . For one of the holes we coated the screw with vaseline and for the other we did not. Araldite was applied to the screws and they were tightened in. After approx 3 hours, the screws were loosened. Both came out with ease but it was noted that the one with vaseline came out a little quicker and it was easier to remove the excess Araldite from it. Looking in the hole, it's literally a thread made out of Araldite. It goes in and tightens properly. I would say it is equivalent to a plastic thread. Seems amazing so far. Can't talk about long-term though. Will try it on the Savage and update again.

Thanks.
 
A little bit of an update. I tried it on the Savage but it didn't work as expected. I coated the screw with vaseline but I think that is the problem. After 2.5hrs I took the screw out, and a few hours later I tried tightening it and the araldite just came out. It didn't stick and has the consistency of elastic rubber. I honestly think the vaseline has to do with this because vaseline itself becomes like that when dry. When I tried it on a piece of plastic the araldite was solid and if you were to press on it enough with your finger you would cut your finger. It's not the same this time.

I will try again without vaseline and let you know.
 
Tried without vaseline. Doesn't work, don't even bother.
Can't use a longer screw because there's not enough space it seems like.
Plastic sucks donkey balls.
 
raymond said:
Tried without vaseline. Doesn't work, don't even bother.
Can't use a longer screw because there's not enough space it seems like.
Plastic sucks donkey balls.
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Click to expand...

A longer screw would have fixed your problem,
I would think the longer screw option is not doable now as the remainder of the whole will be blocked with the aralide.
 
Sparky said:
A longer screw would have fixed your problem,
I would think the longer screw option is not doable now as the remainder of the whole will be blocked with the aralide.
Click to expand...

Should have used the longer screws. Like I said, I've done it many times and it works. There is room in the savage transmissions to put in a longer one without hitting anything
 
upbasher1 said:
Should have used the longer screws. Like I said, I've done it many times and it works. There is room in the savage transmissions to put in a longer one without hitting anything
Click to expand...

But since the end is short, how do I put in a longer screw? Do I drill it or what?
 
If you haven't resolve this just fill the hole full of epoxy and maybe thread to screw in right before it sets up as hard as it can be it's just plastic you know
 
Like sparky and upbasher suggest the factory screw is actually too short making this problem in the first place! a 2mm longer screw fit in the short holes and a 4mm longer screw fits in the longer holes, I do this with all my savages.

Even on my new ss kits and new xl build, i actully like m3 metric threads better than the screws but thats a hole other story
 
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