@#*!$$%@^#&* Spur Gear!!!!!!!

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mlijgib

Member
Messages
18
Location
Tampa FL
So now I'm on my 3rd spur gear! I have come to the realization that HPI is involved in a plot to misdirect you in the instructions so you will break parts. I have adjusted my mesh perfectly everytime but i end up melting the spur. The only thing i can think of is that my slipper isnt warking. Book sez to tighin down all the way then back out 1/4 turn. any thoghts on this. I know spurs are not expensive but its just so damn frustrating to have to change one evey time i run!!!!!!!!


:chainkiller: :chainkiller: :chainkiller: :chainkiller:
 
1.) What engine are you running?

2.) Are they melting or are the teeth shearing off?

3.) If the mesh is set correctly there should be the smallest amount of wiggle possible.

4.) Your avatar scares me.

5.) You could just get a steel spur.
 
u might have a engine plate that is tweaked or even a broken engine mount look at these things and keep us posted ......
 
u might have a engine plate that is tweaked or even a broken engine mount look at these things and keep us posted ......

Very true I would remove your engine and check the engine plate. That same thing happened to me but I was using a steel spur so instead of ruining the spur I snapped the crankshaft.
 
i had that problem and wound up putting on a steel spur gear.
 
What part was melting on the spur? The center part? or the teeth? Could also have a hot clutch bell that is transferring heat to the spur.
 
thats what iam think jt your clutch shoes might be heating that sucker up check them and suff the up w/ sandpaper
 
1.) What engine are you running?

2.) Are they melting or are the teeth shearing off?

3.) If the mesh is set correctly there should be the smallest amount of wiggle possible.

4.) Your avatar scares me.

5.) You could just get a steel spur.



1.) 4.1

2.)

0213070708.jpg


3.) Been through that, and set correctly.

4.) BOO!

5.) Would like to but,1 they are $$$$$$ and, B i need to fix the underlying prob first.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
1.) 4.1

2.)

0213070708.jpg


3.) Been through that, and set correctly.

4.) BOO!

5.) Would like to but,1 they are $$$$$$ and, B i need to fix the underlying prob first.


First off good for you not just going to the metal spur, all that does is mask the problem.

Hard to tell from the pic what happened, but it looks like the X design spur, I would go get the old style and try that, I have heard of problems with the X style spur not keeping center, (I cant confirm or deny that as I don't have one, just something I read if various forums) plus the new XSS spur is the old style spur just in metal. That right there makes me think the dual slipper is a bad idea to start with.

If it melted the teeth off I would really look at possible clutch bell heating problems. Also as stated above check for broken/cracked engine mount and/or engine plate.
 
I like a lot of us have also had problems with melting spurs. I'd suggest that there are several reasons the spur can/will melt.

1.Incorrect mesh
2.Incorrect slipper adjustment
3.Worn clutch shoes or clutchbell (slipping)
4.Incorrect engine tuning
5.Broken parts (engine mount, clutchbell bearing, slipper bushing, spur gear, etc.)

All of them end up causing excessive heat and when that transfers to the spur gear, after a while the plastic compound melts.

What you need to figure out is WHY there is a heat problem, and WHAT is causing it.

Ok, sounds simple, but if you remember that it's heat related, then maybe you can help pinpoint where the heat is being generated first.

So, is your engine too lean? I've melted spur gears just cause the engine heated up too much, and transferred the heat to the spur. Granted I knew it was too lean, but was screwing around. Retuned the engine, and had no problem with the spur again.

If it's a mesh related problem, then you need to assess whether or not you are really setting it correctly, and if it's STAYING adjusted from tank to tank, or even as you are running through a tankful. So check after warm up, check again halfway through the tank, and then check just before you run out of fuel.. See that the mesh is still smooth, that the teeth aren't getting soft, that the adjustment nut is still a quarter turn from fully tight, etc...

Check that your engine plate isnt cracked, If it's cracked, the mesh will change under load... Check that your clutch bell isn't glazed smooth causing the clutch to slip and create excessive heat. Check that your shoes aren't glazed for the same reason. Use sandpaper to scuff them both up.

Now if all else fails.. (and I went this route just to ensure no further problems) Get a vented clutchbell, get a vented flywheel, and get aluminum shoes. I've got all three, and with a new spurgear, a new spurgear bushing, and the adjustment checked each time before I run.. I haven't melted another spur since.

Take a step by step approach to finding what's causing the heat build up, fix any problems, and possibly upgrade to some cooler running parts, and you should be good to go. I'd also suggest NOT getting a metal spur gear, as there needs to be a weak link so that you don't damage more expensive parts. In that sense, a cheap spur gear isnt as bad as a new transmission for instance!

Good luck and report back with your findings/results.
Vinny
 
I would go get the old style and try that, I have heard of problems with the X style spur not keeping center
I have an X and th spur stays center if you put the bearing that comes with it on. You can't use any other spur but the X on a Savage X either, I've tried. I would say check your engine plate for cracks. Just so we are clear the engine plate is purple.
 
I have an X and th spur stays center if you put the bearing that comes with it on. You can't use any other spur but the X on a Savage X either, I've tried. I would say check your engine plate for cracks. Just so we are clear the engine plate is purple.

Actually you can, you just need the old style hub, I had bought a X tranny off ebay and put a old style hub and spur on it with no problems and it works like a charm.
 
Here is a blurb fom the HPI website (US) about upgrades for the X

"RTR Savage X Update!
The HPI Savage X has proven to be the industry benchmark for drivetrain durability. To stay ahead of the competition, HPI is now including free parts that make the Savage X even tougher for heavy-duty driving with powerful engines. RTR Savage X trucks now include the heavy-duty alloy diff parts developed for the high performance Savage X SS kit. Boxes with a “Free Parts Inside†sticker on the front will include the parts to convert the front and rear differentials to tough alloy metal cases with shims and beefed-up internals. The new alloy diffs have proven to be a very durable set-up that is capable of handling extreme power, and they’re one of the most popular upgrades for Savage owners. And now… they are included for free in specially marked RTR Savage X truck boxes!

As an added bonus, an original Savage slipper clutch and spur gear are also included. The original slipper works great for high horsepower applications and allows a wider variety of gearing options. Complete installation instructions are included for all of the free upgrades.
Note: This limited time offer is valid for North American customers only."
 
Right you can put the original one on if you have the right slipper. I thought you guys thought you could put a Savage .25 spur on a Savage X slipper.
On a side note- Do you think I could call in about these "free parts" I have a savage x but purchased it before they were including these parts. Or do you think they wouldn't give me a bag of these parts?
 
Here is a blurb fom the HPI website (US) about upgrades for the X

"RTR Savage X Update!
The HPI Savage X has proven to be the industry benchmark for drivetrain durability. To stay ahead of the competition, HPI is now including free parts that make the Savage X even tougher for heavy-duty driving with powerful engines. RTR Savage X trucks now include the heavy-duty alloy diff parts developed for the high performance Savage X SS kit. Boxes with a “Free Parts Inside†sticker on the front will include the parts to convert the front and rear differentials to tough alloy metal cases with shims and beefed-up internals. The new alloy diffs have proven to be a very durable set-up that is capable of handling extreme power, and they’re one of the most popular upgrades for Savage owners. And now… they are included for free in specially marked RTR Savage X truck boxes!

As an added bonus, an original Savage slipper clutch and spur gear are also included. The original slipper works great for high horsepower applications and allows a wider variety of gearing options. Complete installation instructions are included for all of the free upgrades.
Note: This limited time offer is valid for North American customers only."


Just got off the phone with HPI and they are sending me the upgrade parts for the diff and the old spur gear set up. The dude told me i should upgrade to the steel! Way to upsell HPI!
 
Just got off the phone with HPI and they are sending me the upgrade parts for the diff and the old spur gear set up. The dude told me i should upgrade to the steel! Way to upsell HPI!
I just called HPI as well and they are sending me the same thing. Hooray for updates on the savage! BTW I have aluminum diffs anyway but it never hurts to have a spare or 2.................right?:jumplaugh: :jumplaugh: :jumplaugh: :jumplaugh: :jumplaugh: :jumplaugh: :jumplaugh: :jumplaugh:
 
Well i have the new / Old Spur gear from HPI. Is working great so far. They also sent the alum diff cups, i will put those in on the next major tear down. On another note my rotostart died so they are sending me another free o charge. I tellyou what if the Savvy is the toughest of all the monster trucks out their then I'm glad i didnt go with the T-maxx or somsing!
 
My savage is just a regular .21. what would I need to tell hpi to get the free parts?

If you must.........Tell them you have a Savage X and your when they ask you how your truck is running tell them your rear diff is blown.
 

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