Spur Gear 47T Savage-melt

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Before I changed my plastic spur out.I came off a jump,not even a hard jump and when it landed the engine would rev but it didnt go anywhere.I pulled the cover and half my spur looked like that.I bought a intergy spur and it has not failed in 1+year
 
Me too - Now Ready to Sell This Thing

I've had my Savage SS for 2 months. Since then, its been through 7 spur gears. I've only gone through 4 tanks (after the break in). This gives me an average of 1/2 tank per spur gear. I bought a dozen spur gears figuring I'd get it right one day. I've read every post and tried every technique to get the mesh and alignment perfect. Each time, I get the exact same same melted gear. Seriously, I have 7 SG's in front of me that look exactly like the OP's.

Last night, I was running with the same old 17/47. It was 82 degrees out side and I was running slightly rich. The surface was my black top driveway. About 8 to 10 minutes of running and I accidently drove into the grass. In an instant, the SG was gone.

My thought is that the gear is getting so hot that its at the threshold of breaking/melting and the extra torque needed to get through the small patch of grass just put it over the limits.

According to HPI, 17/47 is fine for on road use. Apparently not. So what is the answer? A metal spur gear? New clutch shoes? If so, can any one comment as to exactly which one (which clutch shoe or spur gear) they recommend?

If I can get this thing to run for more than a 1/2 tank of fuel, I'm selling it and moving on. Life is too short to live with mistakes and failure.
 
Usually when the teeth go on my plastic spur it's time to change the cb bearings. When the pad and rear of the sg go it was too loose. And of course use paper for the mesh as others have mentioned.

Been on the same plastic spur just over a gallon now
 
I wasnt gonna comment on this caz i dint wanna cause controversy, but on the other hand, wanna get best info out there to peeps who need help.

The metal spur on the XL & X ss is an 'upgrade' for many reasons. Truggies also use a metal spur on the center diff without a slipper clutch w/o issue.



If you 'don't know how to mesh' & run a composite spur gear, the spur will melt from excessive heat or strip the teeth off from mis-alignment. A metal spur gear is more forgiving to both of these conditions.



Slipper clutch makes this virtually impossible. Unless you eliminate it.



damage cant "transfer down" beyond your slipper clutch in either direction unless you eliminate the slipper. The most damage you will prolly do is toast your slipper pad which is $4 usd for 2 pads.

A bud of mine (who you all know well) broke his mill plate in 3 places while running a metal spur & dint damage his spur or anything else. a composite wouldve been toast.

so again, please don't take offense to this posting, I'm sure the r/c companies did a lot of r & d before they designed an upgrade that would caz damage and make their phones ring with angry customers.

running a composite or Metal spur gear is a matter of Preference as is most things in this hobby; Adjust your slipper correctly, use a racing/vented clutchbell and you will love a metal spur!

No offense taken, I don't know everything and I would hate to give someone the wrong info. I still do believe that it is smarter to run a plastic spur over a metal one. While that is preference I just wanted to share my past experiences in hopes that the original poster would be able to make a smart decision for himself. We all have our own thoughts on the matter and I still recommend running the Savage 25 spur while others may not agree.

Don't worry I still luv u frddy!
 
mine did that 2 days after i got it go to a steel spur
 
Mine did same thing untill i put on a racing clutch bell i have been good ever since. The clutch bells are pretty cheap and not that hard to put in
 

Members online

Back
Top