SAVAGE XS CVD axles

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NitroNation

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I know they can be a nice upgrade for the full size savage. But I cannot vouch for the shafts you're thinking of buying.
 
I've used GPM products in the past and have been pleased with them. I'm sure if you get their CVD's you'll be happy with them too!
 
i need the strongest stuff for the xs on 3s. that thing is nuts... the normal drive cups will only last about 5 runs on 3s...I'm going through them like peanuts!!!!
 
Your not gonna find anything that's gonna last a good while when you always run it on 3s. Like I've said in the past about the xs, it's designed to handle 3s but not constantly run on 3s. It's designed to mainly run on 2s with occasional runs on 3s. But, give the GPM CVDs a shot and see how long they last.
 
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg Moment of truth... I got the cvd stuff just waiting for a. Couple of more items before I could install.

I got this item as we'll to make the drive train stronger. The HD upgrade cups and here is another picture
 
nice parts, hope they hold up to the abuse you intend on giving them..... good luck, and have fun tearing up something else for awhile....
 
I just realized the new cvd shafts don't really fit in the front. The cvd joint is too big....: any solutions??
 
I
I've got the gpm ones in my savage xs but haven't had much rum time on them.

Can you tell me which knuckles and hubs you got in the front ?? The gpm cvd sets that I got don't fit with the stock plastic Knuckles and hubs because the cvd join is really big.
 
Stock plastic Nitro. As far as I can tell and see, mine aren't rubbing anywhere. The fit is really close with maybe a mm of space for clearance.
 
I'm trying to find the front knuckle and c joints from other companies, with any luck i might be able to find someone that makes them with more clearance. Does anyone know if there is another company that makes them with more space???? it would make my day for sure...
 
image.jpg image.jpg Almost done putting this thing together. Still have parts coming in pro606310 shocks from proline. As you can see ok the picture I got all the HD CUPS that I need. They look and feel much stronger than the aftermarket hot racing cups that I had.
 
yup, that looks familiar to me, except I use my bench in the shop for such things....... wife would KILL me for usin any of "her" furniture or doin that stuff inside......
 
Yeah i've got a garage for that. I've long been kicked out of the house while working on RC gear.

By the way, attack that Savage with some simple green and water mixture while it's all apart to really clean it up.
 
ya i have to agree, while is apart makes it so easy to clean it all up, lil scrubbin with an old toothbrush works wonders to make em chiney and nice again....
 
I cleaned it up good. I'm just waiting for the power strokes and the new remote. I will be done 100% I'll post more pics as I get the stuff
 
these fpm axels are good for a couple of runs and thats about it. the pins in them are not able to handle 3s or just hardcore bashing for that matter. the pins are breaking and the joins are dislocating.... what a waste of money.. 50-60$ almost down the drain....i do not recommend anyone getting these ......does anyone know of any metal or joint lubricant??? some of the metal parts i have are getting dry and squeaking...don't want them breaking like this fpm axel joints....
 
I would try some dry teflon type lube on those parts it wont attract dirt and works pretty well, find it at most auto parts stores, also on to those pins I would try a drill blank or something in there to replace them with, I broke a 1/16 hex driver awhile back and used parts of the broken shaft to replace broken pins in one of my rigs and problem solved......
 
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Thanks for the good ideas. I fixed the axel by replacing the broken pin with a heavy duty body clip. Works great now. As for the lube... I aught to get me some of that. ....
 
If the cvds brake again I would suggest u buy a drill bit the same diameter and cut the shank off, and use that as a drive pin. That's what I've done in my Axel hexes

(thats: use the shank of the drill bit, not the spiral flute section)
 
thats even stronger than what i have and will definitely do try it out next time. so far the axels are fine, but what I'm worried about is they're really dry at the moment. I'm worried they might crack
 
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If u want to lube em up, use a dry lubricant. Silicon spray is good, and the other is graphite powder. Dry lubricants don't get sand and junk stuck in the cv's like grease and oil would.
 

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