savage xl drivetrain or slipping clutch problem .. help

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G

gazzazh

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Hi All,

I got my Savage yesterday, made the break-in today , on my 7 tank i was doing full throttle to engage the second and third gear, engine temp was at 230 Fahrenheit and all was well, then the car started to rev on high throttle but would not move and then suddenly booms forwards as if its slipping from the first gear .. any suggestions please.. i then made the low speed needle a bit rich and the symptoms were gone, and it was back to normal, but i don't know if this solved the problem and what should i investigate or look for ? your help please
 
First off, welcome to the froum! I'm not really positive what would cause this but it is probably not the fuel adjustments. Sounds like a clutch or gear issue. Check the clutch and make sure it is OK to eliminate that, and then go from there. Actually, check all your drive lines first just to make sure there is nothing obstructing them and make sure the truck rolls smoothly on it's own, then check the clutch, then open the tranny and check there. Always start with the more simple things just to be sure it isn't something that could be easily fixed.
 
just be sure that you see exhaust smoke! Also check throttle linkages be sure they are not sticking. It sounds like clutch issue, check shoes for sticking.Second gear should engage without being close to full throttle.
 
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well looks like your taken care of so welcome to the forum my friend!!!!
 
welcome to hpisf. if all else fails and you cant see any thing wrong get the truck to show this symptom and keep it revving as you look to see what is moving and what isnt moving on the drive line. most likly the first gear one way bearing. i had heard some members saying hpi had a bad run of them
 
sorry guys, i am new to this and a bit lost, one way bearing for first gear ? where is that ? And clutch ... you mean the part at the engine... ?
I read in the manual that it could be drivetrain ... and that its slipping ... is that also possible ... ? Thanks
 
Hi Mickey,

you say the one way is inside the tranny? where ? please be patient with me ... thanks
 
ok in the savage xl manual on page 33 the one way bearing is part number 86362. if you don't have the manual it can be found on hpi racing web site or on this forum in the savage garage in the how to section
 
thx a million mickey,

i check the truck and found that the slipper was too lose, so i tightened..
and then loosened 1/2 turn. that might have been causing the drivetrain.
I found that the front dogbone was missing one steel head. how do i remove the dogbone ?

i don't understand how the dogbone got broken from a breakin .. or maybe because of the drivetrain problem .. i don't know
 
i would contact HPI about the dogbone,if you werent driving the truck hard it shouldn't have happened and I'm almost positive they will take care of you my friend!!!!
 
a friend of mine had a spare dogbone, so he gave it to me, i contacted HPI and waiting for their reply. I asked my friend on how to install the new one, but he never changed his until now, so he had no idea

now, how should i install the new front dogbone.. your recommendations on this is really appreciated.
 
Ok first you need to pull the clips from the bumper mounts. They are behinde the shock tower. Just plastic clips. Unscrew the 4 screws on the bottom of the skid plate. That allows you to pull the bumper and skid plate down low enough to pull the pin that holds the top a arm in place. Pull the pin out. In boot the shocks from the shock tower. That allows the whole asembly to drop down so the dog none pulls out. Then once changed just out it back together. Hope this helps.
 
You'll see how simple it really is to work on these things. Also, using your manual will help with break-down even if they don't show a step-by-step. The exploded views will help you figure out how the truck is put together before you start taking it apart. The first time I did my diffs I was clueless about the easy access diff case until I read the instructions. I ended up taking more apart than I needed to, but now I know, and getting into my diffs takes 5 minutes LOL.
 
ok guys thank you so much for all your help, i changed the dogbone ..but now i have another problem, the engine want start, when i use the roto start i feel i am loosing compression, how can i remedy that, and my engine is not flooded ? help please
 
Make sure the glow plug is still good. Break in is hard on them. And make sure your engine is getting fuel to it. Check the ignitor to make sure its charged as well. I know sounds like comon sense things. But you would be surprised as how often the simple things get over looked when excited to run your truck. We all have done it. Show up to a bash. And realize your ignitor is dead. Or you left it at home. Or the plug is dead ect ect. Good luck.
 
When he said he wasn't getting compression it reminded me of a problem that I have. Do you mean that the motor isn't turning over? It could be that either your OWB, or starter shaft, is getting worn out and causing them to slip. With mine I swear it is the fuel I run. I have had the starter shaft get worn out before but this time both the shaft and OWB look perfect, and when I clean them they work again for a while. I'm using Sidwinder 30% nitro 10% oil, but I swear this sidewinder fuel just gets too much lube on the OWB. You should take yours out and check it for wear, but with mine I can still start it by tapping the button on the roto start instead of holding it down. The initial torque seems to turn the motor over once or twice and then it slips. I just tap the button as if I were using a pull start and that always seems to work fine, plus it is probably easier on your starting components. Also this problem is something that I'm sure preheating would solve since once the motor is warm it all functions perfectly. I think the heat expands the metal in the OWB and shaft and gives them a tighter clearance so they grab better.
 
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ok, done that, and all is good in da hood ... but i have one major problem that i cant seem to comprehend.. i truck slips a lot .. works great and then suddenly keeps slipping. sometime i would push full throttle and it wont move. I tightened the slipper clutch as per the manual and it still happens and then i shut the engine.. start it again and it would go back to working .. i am clueless :(
 
Possible OWB issue in the tranny. Is the slipper tightened all the way? Or did you back it off some? Many people here, including myself, run with the slipper nut tightened all the way down.
 
hi mikeK1981,

I am sorry but what OWB? As for the slipper, i tightened all the way and then made it loss 1/2 way..
 
Ok i guessed what is OWB ( One way bearing ) i think i am correct. I read that the OWB gets oily and thats why it does not grab, and the roto start would not work because of that. Where do i find the OWB and how to clean it?
As for the slipping of the clutch, i looked at the gears and they all seem to be spinning ... so what what am i supposed to look for and when it slips what is happening exactly .. Thanks a million for all your help.. this forum is the best i have every seen so far : )
 
gazzazh said:
hi mikeK1981,

I am sorry but what OWB? As for the slipper, i tightened all the way and then made it loss 1/2 way..
Click to expand...

Do you mean 1/2 turn or 1/2 way? Even 1/2 turn is too loose in some peoples opinion. Do yourself a favor and just tighten it all the way to eliminate it as a potential problem. Once you figure out what is going on with your truck you could always lossen it again if you wanted. You may still just have the slipper too loose, the clutch bell and spur will spin but the gears in the tranny won't be getting any power. Most people either run it all the way tight or back it off only 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. I say tighten it all the way for now just to see if that is the problem. It's mainly there for landing jumps on the throttle, so you don't transfer that stress to the drivetrain.
 
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Thank mikeK1981, I made it 1/2 turn out but i will go with your suggestion and will tighten it all the way..
What about the OWB, where is that located so i can eliminate the starting problem too .. thanks
 
OK, So i tightened the spar, I found:
1- the transmission was very oily ( is this normal ) should it be oil, or should i remove the excess oil.
I also read the manual and found :
2- That the OWB is behind the clutch, is this the one i should clean ?

Thanks
 
ok, updates :
1- I removed the ball bearings found behind the clutch, they were oily, so i removed them and cleaned all the oil out...I hope that i did the right thing so please correct me if I am wrong.
2- I checked the bearings in the transmission and they were also very oily, so i cleaned them also... ( Was this right )
3- I tightened the spar fully

I did not run the truck yet, and waiting for your suggestions and advice so i would not screw something up..

And lastly, what are the parts that i am supposed to oil, the manual only mentions grease in the front deferential

Thank you so much and my apologies if i am asking a lot of questions
 
First off, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Don't worry about oiling. The One-Way Bearing you need to clean is behind the back plate on the motor. Right behind the roto start back plate. You take off the roto plate and you will see a hex shaped nut with a nipple on it. Pull that straight out (there is a shaft on the other side of the nut). That is your starter shaft and it goes through the OWB. Then take the back plate off the motor (only four screws) and then you will see the OWB. There is a pin in the back side of the OWB that connects it to the connecting rod of the piston, it usually stays in the OWB, but just in case, make sure you don't drop it into the motor or lose it. This is what starts your motor. The roto turns the shaft, which then turns the OWB and connecting rod. Once the motor fires the OWB free spins to allow the motor to turn faster without turning the starter shaft or the roto back plate gears any more. Also cleaning may only last so long, and you may start having the problem again. If you do, just do what I said before about only tapping the roto button instead of holding it down. Once you get the shaft and OWB out check them for any wear. I look through the OWB towards a ceiling light fixture to see inside it. The shaft's diameter can become worn down affecting how tightly it fits into the OWB. Once it gets too loose, the OWB won't be able to grip it anymore. In my experience the shaft seems to wear out before the OWB does, which is good since it is only like $5 versus $20 plus for the OWB.
 
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