Savage X 4.6 axle nut damaged / removal from behind? replacement nuts?

[SDZoom]

Ok, I picked up a used Savage X 4.6 Seems in a decent condition but as I dig deeper, a few things messed up. On the driver's side, both wheel axle huts are damaged upon normal removal to point of trying channel lock pliers. I've been doing lefty loosy but they didn't budge. Now the nuts are thrashed unfortunately. Somewhat soft material imho. I've had Kyosho/Tamiya cars, and Traxxas/HPI 20-30 years ago and never had these type of problems with axle nuts.

I think I need to remove the nuts via the back of the axle, using a chisel/crow bar/big screwdriver in the back of the dog bone axle cup. I'm thinking I would turn left from the back to loosen it. Does that seem reasonable? Other options? like I mentioned, the nuts are pretty messed up when i got it.
Question...for front and back, what's need to get suspension arm/hub off for access? Front wise, is it just a matter of removing the bumper, pull the suspension pin? remove shock and steering linkage? Any gotchas in this process? thanks!

 

[Jam 1]

Pics of the problem areas will help alot

 

[SDZoom]

Here we go…I know pretty messed up
I’m thinking I can dremel shaft. Putting slices on the hub disc. From behind will not budge even with some soldering iron heat at the threaded end.

 

[Fstndt]

I had that once, I used the dremel. Sadly things got so hot that the wheel paint melted a bit but I still use it

 

[SDZoom]

I had that once, I used the dremel. Sadly things got so hot that the wheel paint melted a bit but I still use it

The front hub came out. I was able to take the steering rod, shock and pins for the C hub off while wheel was in. Rear can’t do that. Anyways once front off, I did dremel around the axle part. Unfortunately I cut a tad too close so my axle threads got cut but the nut came off by turning from behind.
Hopefully I’ll do better on rear next.

 

[guinnessdublin]

Better still save yourself the grief & get rid of them & upgrade to newer hex V2 set up!

 

[SDZoom]

Better still save yourself the grief & get rid of them & upgrade to newer hex V2 set up!

that's nice but if I understand what that means....is to go to 17mm hexes. Then I would need new wheels/tires. Starts to add up fast. Right now I just need the bare minimum to test out this used Savage I picked up. If I really like it, I'll have to decide what's next.

 

[guinnessdublin]

Fair enough savage friend!

 

[ShiftPoint]

that's nice but if I understand what that means....is to go to 17mm hexes. Then I would need new wheels/tires. Starts to add up fast. Right now I just need the bare minimum to test out this used Savage I picked up. If I really like it, I'll have to decide what's next.

If you have a savage x 4.6 I'm 99% sure you have 17mm hex's. My savage Flux HP has 17mm, I also have a Savage X 4.6 and a Savage X SS which is basically a Savage X 4.6 but it came as a kit and did come with different tires but I actually have the 4.6 tires on it.

anyway, I just used these https://www.ebay.com/itm/222739321811?var=521595985600 on my Flux HP so some new tires would fit, the inner diameter of the wheel (rim) is too small. those things did work but I had to do some sanding on back of them to get the pin in, not a big deal. I found these https://www.ebay.com/itm/331218181680 they may work without sanding but I'm not wild about the screw holding the tire on.

For testing the new truck, as long as you have enough of the shaft. I'd get the 1st one and sand it to fit. but I think your best getting the HPI conversion but its pretty. expensive.