Savage flux xl Elh-6s issue

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I got my savage new about 6 months ago and drove it once and blew a diff . It sat for 5 1/2 months waiting for a new ring gear , I got that and had a decent day to drive it yesterday. So I took it out and it would drive for about 30 seconds and the esc would just apply the brakes and it would sit there. The fan stayed on but I couldn’t go forward or backward and the light on esc was flashing red. Nothing felt hot , I checked batteries they read good . First time I ran it I ran 6s this time 5s both 5000mah 20c. I went threw manual and can’t find nothing about flashing red light
 

olds97_lss

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Maybe try recalibrating it to your receiver. I don't know the steps for that on your particular esc, but I've had that issue before on various esc's. Happened on my traxxas esc in my stampede 4x4. Then I recalibrated it and it was fine. Something like power on esc, hold full throttle on transmitter, turn it on, wait for beep, go full brake, wait for beep, go neutral.

That esc is different than the ones I had, you have a button to press while turning it on:
 
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Yes thank you for your response ... I did try to recalibrate like when I first got the truck. I couldn’t find anything on why the esc would be flashing red. Also I can turn the truck off and back on and it will drive again then after about 30 seconds it hits the brakes and stops.
 
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Hello,
Some Hobbywing (and rebranded) ESCs cannot recognize 5s lipos when the autolipo count is enabled. This can cause the ESC to initialy think that it has an 6s LiPo connected. The lower voltage of 5s will cause the low voltage protection of the esc to actuate. You can try to program the battery voltage to 5s in the esc (instead of outolipo count).
 
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Hello,
Some Hobbywing (and rebranded) ESCs cannot recognize 5s lipos when the autolipo count is enabled. This can cause the ESC to initialy think that it has an 6s LiPo connected. The lower voltage of 5s will cause the low voltage protection of the esc to actuate. You can try to program the battery voltage to 5s in the esc (instead of outolipo count).
From Hobbywing XERUN XR8 instructions:
“Auto Calculation” is the default setting,the XERUN XR8 PLUS can identify 2S, 3S, 4S and 6S while the XERUN XR8 SCT can identify 2S, 3S and 4S when setting this item to “Auto Calculation"
"The RED LED flashes a short, single flash that repeats (☆, ☆, ☆) indicating the low voltage cutoff protection is activated."
 

olds97_lss

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That esc does look a lot like the hobbywing ones. At least the power/setup switch does. The castle ones I've had so far are just a typical switch that you can cut off and solder so you don't have to have a switch. But the hobby wing one has the reset button as part of the switch module.

If I had to guess, the elh-6s is a hobbywing and the elc-6s is castle. Just looking at the switch, wires and shape of it.

elc-6s:


elh-6s:
 
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From Hobbywing XERUN XR8 instructions:
“Auto Calculation” is the default setting,the XERUN XR8 PLUS can identify 2S, 3S, 4S and 6S while the XERUN XR8 SCT can identify 2S, 3S and 4S when setting this item to “Auto Calculation"
"The RED LED flashes a short, single flash that repeats (☆, ☆, ☆) indicating the low voltage cutoff protection is activated."
Thank you for your response ... I did have a guy tell me (or maybe a video on YouTube) that it’s basically a hobby wing esc and the hobby wing programmer would work ... so then the hobby wing instructions and trouble shooting should be the same also? Theoretically? Lol ... I imagine I need the program card to switch it to 5s?
 

olds97_lss

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Also, looking at the manual for the Hobbywing XERUN XR8, it states that it has the auto mode or can be manually adjusted for 2/3/4/6 cells, but I don't see 5 cells as an option at all.
 
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Yea I noticed that ...guess I’ll just have to run 4 or 6 ....it says 2-6s tho ....it says those options are for the auto calc ... I ordered a programmer so if it won’t manually go into 5s then I’ll just turn my punch down .... thanks for the help
 
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Yea I noticed that ...guess I’ll just have to run 4 or 6 ....it says 2-6s tho ....it says those options are for the auto calc ... I ordered a programmer so if it won’t manually go into 5s then I’ll just turn my punch down .... thanks for the help
5s LiPo type can be set manually with the pushbutton if it is a rebranded Quicrun WP150BL.
 
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I found the manual for it ... and it says it can be done now I’m may be confused or still half asleep but I’m not seeing where it says how to do it. It says how to change running mode, drag brake force,lvc and “Nth” what ever that is lol
 
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That’s the manual I found i don’t see where it says how to change into 5s or how to change into manual
 
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That’s the manual I found i don’t see where it says how to change into 5s or how to change into manual
The nth thing means the last thing that can be set. You have to go through all the items that can be set until you get to the Cell count setting.
The first thing you can set is Running mode, then Drag force, then Low voltage cutoff, then Start mode (punch), then Max brake force, then Max reverse force, then Initial brake force, then throttle range, then Timing, then Overheat protection, then motor rotation and the last thing that can be set is Cell count (this where you can set 5s).
It is much easier with the programming card:D
 
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I think they should make a manual for the manual lol thanks tho that’s a lot of help ... I’m going to see if I can figure it out and if not I’ll wait for the card
 

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I think they should make a manual for the manual lol thanks tho that’s a lot of help ... I’m going to see if I can figure it out and if not I’ll wait for the card
Yeah, counting beeps and flashes is annoying, but in a pinch, might be worth 20 minutes of frustration. My traxxas esc can only be adjusted that way, but my castle esc's work with the program card and also with the card, I can plug it into the PC via USB which is even better. Luckily, my savage flux has the "castle" version of the esc and my revo does too.
 
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Only thing I’ve ever had to do on my traxxas esc is change from NiMH to LiPo mode and all my other trucks have been nitro... so this is still kind of foreign to me seriously tho thanks for all the help guys
 

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Only thing I’ve ever had to do on my traxxas esc is change from NiMH to LiPo mode and all my other trucks have been nitro... so this is still kind of foreign to me seriously tho thanks for all the help guys
I got my stampede 4x4 vxl used and it was in beginner mode. Couldn't figure out why/how people were overheating it and breaking slider axles all the time... I ran it for a couple days like that before I realized that's how it was set. Then I wore out my first set of sliders that following weekend. lol
 
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Lmao yeah I have every peice of the drive train upgraded on my vxl pede and still break it every time I take it out the only stock peice is the spur so I still have a weak point needless to say I keep like 5 extra spur gears ... I’ve never over heated it tho not even on 3s but I rarely run it with the body on last upgrade I did was 17mm hubs with the 3.2 rims ... it kinda sucks going from buying 1/10th parts to 1/8th parts lol good thing it’s hard to find savage parts lmao!
 
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Also I tried to change it manually (after the box wouldn’t work) and it didn’t do what the instructions were saying ... maybe I need 6s or other recognized cell count before I can change it?
 
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Also I tried to change it manually (after the box wouldn’t work) and it didn’t do what the instructions were saying ... maybe I need 6s or other recognized cell count before I can change it?
Did you connect the card to the fan output (that may be also the programing input for your ESC)?
 
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Yes I unplugged fan and plugged the servo style wire in I flipped it over every way it could go the card would come on but just sit on the “connecting esc “ screen ... I hooked my batteries up to it and got the same readings as my charger all my cells were at 3.9 ....
 
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I don't think there is a battery related problem. The card is just not connecting to the ESC. I have no experience with that programming card. My HW programing card does not have a LCD display (only red leds). I would check if it is the right card for that ESC (if you haven't already done that).
 
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Well I saw a video on you tube that said the card would work with all the HW clones .... but hey maybe he don’t know lol ... idk I’m gonna hook 6s back up to it tomorrow and see if it acts the same way ...cause I tried the card and manually changing it and couldn’t get nothing to happen....last time I drove it was on 6s tho and it was a monster I just shredded my rear diff... if it does then I’m gonna put a different esc in it ... I’d just hate to put another 100$ in it and blow a diff and have it sit again .... I had the xl 5.9 nitro and could launch that thing 40ft into a cartwheel and would still be ok ... this has been nothing but problems ....
 
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I have been investigating: First turn on the esc, then connect the cable to the program card. Other connection sequence may not work.
PD: I run my two savages on 6S with 16T pinions. With bullet proof and well shimmed diffs they are woking fine.
 
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