Savage Diff Oil Weight

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CTDpower

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I was wondering if one bottle would be enough to fill both diffs, does any one know?

Ofna Fluid

Also, maybe we should post a sticky for diff fluid weights? Obviously there is no right or wrong here, but maybe people could just post what they are using (or have used in the past), the specifics about their truck (i.e. which truck, engine/motor, gearing, tires, etc), what style driving they do, and their experience, short and simple.

This could be the template for each post:

Diff Front:
Diff Rear:
Truck:
Engine:
Gearing:
Which Diffs:
Tires:
Relavent Mods:
Experience:

What do ya think? Could be good reference for alot of people. To bad there is no definiteive way to measure this and know exactly what you were gonna have before you put it all together and tested it... just to many variables.
 

AllanQ

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You can fill several diffs with that size bottle. I think we have a thread with diff oil weights, let me go look.

Here is one..https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9619&highlight=diff+oil

another https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9089&highlight=diff+oil
I use 10k both in front and rear

I know there has been a lot of discussion in many threads all over the place about what oil are being used. Start a thread using your post above and once the thread is populated, I will make it a sticky.
 
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CTDpower

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Sweet! good to know I'll have extra. 30k seemed high to me, there is such a huge variance in what people are running it is crazy. 10k front rear sounds a little better, but I wouldn't know, haha.

I think I actually have skimmed through both of those threads already. I thought a sticky may be an easier read for somebody looking for just the pertinent info :) Plus I kinda thought that if there was more of an easy template to follow for the post, maybe more people would be apt to post, and the info would be easier to find within each post?
 
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frddyj

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Location
boston
Nitro Savage
Diff Front: 10k
Diff Rear: 10k
Truck: Savage on FLM Ext's
Engine: Modified Picco .28
Gearing:17/47
Which Diffs:Savage X rtr's (had CEN's, dint care for em)
Tires: Losi Zombies
Relavent Mods: SHD bonz, axles, etc, 3 spd w/hi speed 3rd.
Experience: not exactly sure what you mean here but i did have 7k oil in front, 5k in rear & the mill overpowered it so the front diff would unload. 10k solved that problem. i like the 10k a lot.

Savage Flux
Diff Front: 50k
Diff Rear: 50k
Truck: Savage Flux on PRC ext tvps.
Engine: Tork 2200kV - 5s lipos (18.5 volts)
Gearing:20/45
Which Diffs:Savage XL diffs (machined)
Tires:hpi dirt bonz
Relavent Mods: Single speed flux tranny
Experience: non yet, saving for packs.

** note ** in my Hellfire i have 20k in the center diff & 7k front & rear. this oil is not heavy enough because the front tire unloads. i'll prolly kick it up to 10k next time i service the diffs.
 
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BIGDAN89

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Location
las vegas
Nitro Savage
Diff Front: 10k
Diff Rear: 10k
Truck: Savage on FLM lcg standards
Engine: Picco .28
Gearing:16/48 soon to be 17/47
Which Diffs:Savage ssX
Tires: 40s moabs or crimes on axial 8 spoke beadlocks and xtm dishes
Experience: 10k seem to be the spot for what i do.100k don't waste your time on that unless you want a locked diff.
 
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AllanQ

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Stuck this thread, I am sure we will get a lot of input.

Nitro Savage BB Racer
Diff Front: 10k
Diff Rear: 10k
Truck: Savage on stock tvp's
Engine: Axial .28
Gearing:17/47
Which Diffs:Savage X rtr's
Tires: Dirt Bonz
Relavent Mods: RSC
Experience: like it


Nitro Savage Big Block Basher
Diff Front: 10k
Diff Rear: 10k
Truck: Savage on FLM STD Length LCG's
Engine: F4.6
Gearing:17/47
Which Diffs:Savage X rtr's
Tires: Pro-Line Bow Ties
Relavent Mods:
Experience: Like it

Nitro Savage SB Racer
Diff Front: 10k
Diff Rear: 10k
Truck: Savage on stock TVP's
Engine: OS .18
Gearing:16/47
Which Diffs:Savage X rtr's
Tires: Pro-Line Bow ties
Relavent Mods:
Experience: Like it. Run 10K in all my savages.

Running 15k in center diff and 7k in front and rear diffs of HF. Have not tried any other combination so nothing to compare to.
 
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CTDpower

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OMG, this is exactly what I was looking for !! :)

Now you can just go down the list and pick out the few trucks that are similar to what you have built, and then see what diff fluid they are using and how they like it, Sweet!

Thanks Guys!!
 

Pope

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Location
Columbus Ohio
Diff Front: 20k
Diff Rear: 10K
Truck: EXT LCG CF savage
Engine: Modded Picco .28
Gearing: 16/45 w/ high speed flux trans
Which Diffs: XL diffs
Tires: Proline bowties or Badlands
Relavent Mods:Where to start? RSC, Swaybars, 250cc Mid-tank Mod, Big Bore shocks (Shortened), Blue Grove Tekno Wing mount Kit ( It gives you a ton of shock mounting positions)
Experience: The heavier weight oil in the front combined with the the other mods alow for the front wheels to pull the truck around turns without unloading. The thinner oil in the back alows the rear to break loose in the turns with a little T/B control making it possible to drift the truck around turns with very little loose of speed and come out of the turns already at full power.


There is alot more to the setup of a truck than just the Diff oil wt. Every little thing has an effect on the handling of the truck and at the end of the day it is the guy on the TX that matters most in racing.
 
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CTDpower

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There is alot more to the setup of a truck than just the Diff oil wt. Every little thing has an effect on the handling of the truck and at the end of the day it is the guy on the TX that matters most in racing.
I would totally agree with that. I had a friend a while back that was a sponsored 1/8 buggy driver. First he had a full sponsor from kyosho back when you could get them from tower, second he had a full sponsor from Mugen... didn't matter what he was driving he was always coming in first. He could run some Noob's old rtr buggy and still kick butt.
 
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Divey1130

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Here's mine so far.....


Diff Front: 30,000 wt
Diff Rear: 30,000 wt
Truck: XL on Ext FLM LCG TVP's
Engine: K5.9
Gearing: 14/52 Steel
Which Diffs: Bullet Proof F/R
Tires: Big Joe's mounted on Over Sized Axial 8 Spoke (black)
Relavent Mods: Ofna 250cc Mod, Bankrupter's T/B Mod, 17mm Hubs, 30wt F/R in Shocks, Shorten Shocks 3/4 " (better LCG), HS 5955 Steering, HS 5645 T/B, Spektrum 2.4 Radio, FLM Skid Plate, FLM Motor Mount, FLM Heatsink, FLM Servo Plate, Bearings in Steering Post, All New Bearings entire truck, Fabricated Steering Link w/Flanged Bearings, Shaved Hubs, Dynamite Max Life Shoes w/ Mugen 1.0mm Sprins and Mugen Nut, Switched to Byron's 30% Gen II, Ofna 1700 mah 5 Cell Hump Pack, Fabricated 4mm Alum on Motor Protector (XL model to short) and more I forget.
Experience: A little over a year with nitro and a little longer with electric. For straight bashing I stick with all stock arms, hubs, and carriers. Parts are cheap and easy to fix. Handles like a dream with the new tvp's and lowering of the shocks plus the wider tires. Lastly learning 99.99% from here.

Terry
 

olds97_lss

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Location
Dekalb, IL 60115
What I run -
Truck: Savage Flux HP
Diff Front: 50k mugen
Diff Rear: 50k mugen
Diff center: Super 5SC Trans w/center diff, 750K
Engine: MMX/2200kv sensored
Gearing: 44/20
Cell count: 4S
Which Diffs: BP sintered
Tires: pro-line trenchers (the tall ones)

Truck: Savage X
Diff Front: 50k mugen
Diff Rear: 50k mugen
Diff center: n/a
Engine: LRP30 S2
Gearing: 47/17, hpi alloy 3 shoe, HPI steel spur, HPI HD bell
Cell count: n/a
Which Diffs: BP sintered
Tires: Traxxas t-maxx 3.3 3.8" wheels/tires


I never run on a track, usually run at a skate park, park grass and occasional dirt or BMX trackI. I use higher weight oils to always get power to the tires touching the ground, even when in rough terrain and you get hung up/high centered on stuff, sticks, rocks dirt clods, 1:1 tire tracks, snow, etc. I don't want my diffs locked as that is too hard on the drive train in general. Also, thicker oil leaks out less.

With grease (stock), the diffs tends to be more open/free spinning when one wheel is on the ground sending the majority of the power to the wheel in the air. I've also found the same when running less than 50K in the front/rear diffs. I ran grease many years ago, but now I always run heavy oil in all my sealed diffs regardless of the vehicle.

50K is what I've ran for over a decade in my savage's. Even when I ran buggies, I ran the same oil in all 3 diffs, 50k. Again, I'm only a basher. I never see a track. I drive on all forms of terrain on any given day. I want constant even power making it to the ground always.

My savage flux is unique in the fact that I run a super 5SC transmission in it, which has a diff built in that is using the same cup/internals as the other savage diffs with alloy cups. I installed it because I couldn't get the slipper set to a point where it would slip enough to absorb shock of hard landings without slipping too much when I apply a lot of throttle causing the pad to glaze. I went through 4 or 5 diff pinions before I got that transmission. I'm still using the slipper and it will slip, but it takes a lot to do so. However, with the center diff, on a hard landing, the power gets unloaded to the tires with the least amount of traction and the majority of the shock is absorbed that way.

When I first installed it, I used 500k. It wasn't enough. If I stabbed the throttle, it would unload all the power to the front tires turning them into pizza cutters and it cut my wheelies down significantly when running on any surface. So, I got some 1M weight oil, removed about half of the 500K and put in half 1M. Now it will still unload to the front when I apply a lot of throttle off the line, but it does give on hard landings. I'm also able to get up to speed much easier than before because when it unloads some of the power to the front, it doesn't just flip on it's lid with a wheelie like the solid center did. I've also found that I run the packs down much faster due to being able to apply more throttle all the time. So it really tamed the truck down without handicapping the fun for me.
 
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