RSC Review by The Pope

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Pope

Well-Known Member
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Location
Columbus Ohio
This review is going to come in two parts this first part will be on the parts and instalation. The second part will be on its proformance on and off the track.

I just got my RSC yesterday and put it on last night. Here are my impressions so far.

Street price $150
What it does. Improves handling and steering of your truck.

What I like

1. Kit is complete with everything you need including most tools are included.
2. Parts are high quality alum with high quality anodizing.

What I didn't like

1.The front axle carriers need major modifing before they will function properly.
2.Not an easy add on for the less experienced RC driver.

Installing

The first thing anyone will notice about this when looking at the package is just how much stuff you get in the package. The big important parts are front hubs and axle carriers, rear one piece hub/axle carriers, Adjustible upper A-arms, Two alum cross members. It also has all screws and spacers need to install.

Custom triming of parts is a big part of this add on and is something that may give the first time RC owner without much mechanical inclanation a bit of trouble. A dremal will come in handy for this part. I will only cover the instalation on a savage x or xl but the savage 21/25 is very much the same.

The first thing you will need to do is notch out the front half of the bulkhead to enable the cross member to be installed this is very simple and straight forward and can be done very easly with a set of wire cutters. Next comes cutting out about half of the lower eyelet of the shock towers to make room for the new upper a-arms. The final bit of cutting/grinding you will have to do according to the directions is cutting out a good part of the back shock mounts on the front lower a-arms. This is to allow the steering to function fully. Two things to be noted here is that you will have to cut away about twice as much as is shown in the pictures included with the RSC and if not carefull you could severly weeken the arm and second you will no longer be able to have two shocks on each of the two front corners. I found that if you cut down the bolt included with the kit to attach the tie rods to exactly the length you need you will only have to cut slightly more than pictured.

The next part is not listed in the directions but is needed to enable the kit to function properly. This is also my biggest problem with the kit but being that it can be fixed it is not a huge deal.

The nubs on the arms of the axle carriers prohibit the full steering throw possible with the kit. This is how you fix it. The nub that hits into the hubs as you steer need to be ground down to match the curve of the hub. This takes about 1 min of grinding. You could just grind them off entirely but I wanted a very clean look so I just ground it down to match the curve. Do this either way and it will work. One thing to note however is that you may need to adjust the end points on your radio to keep from having the axles pop out when the wheels are turned full one way or the other. I did notice that with the XL/Flux dogbones this was not needed.

Instalation from this point is a simple matter of bolting everything together and is fairly straight forward.

What it does and how

The kit will elimanate the rear tie rods by using a one piece hub and axle carrier making for a much cleaner and simpler rear. The rear axle carriers also have built in toe and two camber adjustments that make tuning the rear of the car far simpler.

The kit will enable much tighter turning by rotating the mounts for the front axle carriers by about 1 1/2 hours which enables the inside wheel in a turn to rotate far more and pull the front end of the car around a turn far faster and sharper.

The cross members lower the roll center of the car further improving the handling in turns which will lead to faster lap times on the track do to being able to power through those turns.

In conclusion

This is a great upgrade that just about anyone could do with a few hours to devote.

I am looking forward to testing it out this week at the track and putting it to the test in the gravel pits bashing. Once I put it through it paces I will update this with a proformance review.

Update: For the proformance review for both racing and bashing see posts 13 and 15.

Update: Here is a How to for installing this in a FLM bulk head done by Bankrupter. https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12786
 
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Good review. Man, I didn't realize how much extra work it took to install this kit! I mean it's not that big of a deal but I would have thought for that price you would be able to just bolt it on.
 
Mike one thing to rember is that you are completely changing the handling of the truck so for 15-25 min of some grinding (depending on how nice you want it to look) is not that bad HPI did a great job with this product. Turns it into a Hot bodies Savage.
 
I might do it someday but I want to do the PRC 250cc mid-tank first. I'd also like to get the PRC chassis/skid plate combo too. Gotta come up with the funds though. I actually have a little saved but was gonna use it for the Blitz and I've been spending on my heli too! Too many cool things out there to buy LOL!
 
Here are my impressions of the proformance of this on the track.

First thing that you will notice when you put the truck down on the track is just how big of a diffrence the kit makes.

In the corners:

This kit makes turning the savage much easier. It helps keep the inside tire on the ground and the fact that the inside tire turns so much because of the castor angle of the kit it pulls your car around in a much tighter radius. It actually took me a few laps to get used to the added stearing abilty of the truck.

In the straights.

The added castor made driving the truck in a straight line a breeze. With the stock set up it was a constant battle keeping the truck straight with hair steering adjustments all the way down the straights. The castor makes the wheels almost auto center themselfs and I found that if you get the tension on the servo saver just right even if the linkage isn't set up perfect it will still go straight because it auto alines so well it will push itself straight against the servo saver. That alone makes this kit worth the cost of admission in my opion.

Things to note:

Make sure that the screws that hold the axle carriers to the hubs have locktight on them and check them after each heat or after each tank if you are bashing.

In conclusion:

There is much more to a Great Racing Savage than just the steering but this kit goes a long way towards making the savage track ready. It was my first time ever in a race (I have been on the track before but never in an offical race) and I managed to take second. How it wasn't all because of this Hop Up but it was a big help. I must hand it to HPI for giving us who would want to take their savages to the track a great way to get our trucks to handle and turn much better.
 
Time for the bash review.

Took the truck out to the BMX track yesterday for a little bit of bashing. The ground was hard but with some loose sand on top. The jumps varied in size from some 2.5 foot stuff all the way up to a 8 foot high double. The truck handled very well on all of the doubles and tripples with no problem what so ever.

When it came to the high speed big air jumps off the burms is where I ran into some trouble with the single front shock set up. (I have the HPI threaded body aluminium shocks.) I bent four shock arms in total durring the day all two of which bent on a 20 foot backflip which also broke the bottom shock eyelets. I replaced the parts and went back for more after a few more big air jumps I had broken 2 more bottom shock eyelets and two more shafts.

Now this may be a bit beyond what HPI intended this single stock shock setup to take but I feel that it is worth noting. Big bore shocks for the front of the truck at the very least are needed with the HPI Suspension Conversion if you plan on putting any more than about 6 feet of air under your savage.

I feel that the plastic body big bore sport shocks that come on the HPI Flux would most likely do very well and are avalible relitivly cheep on the internet.

One other issue that I came across while running this kit is the bolts that attach the upper A-arm to the cross brace have a bad habbit of coming loose causing you to loose your dog bone and the purple spacers that line up the upper A-arm. I would strongly recomend double nutting those bolts just as a safty measure.

My ending impressions.

The kit is a great value for those looking to make a competive racer out of their savage or even those who would like to have their savage handle better than stock. I have run it side by side with a truggy and a buggy. The handling was not on par with the buggy but matched that of the truggy. Now obviously there are other diffrences between the truggy and savage that separate them and their capabiltys.

One thing I would have liked to seen is the inclusion of two of the plastic sport Big bore shocks for the front of the truck.

Other than that I had no problems with the acutual parts in the kit no breakage or bending of any kind. Over all a super hop up for any savage.
 
I'll probably get one of these eventually but I just bash by myself for now. No racing going on for me yet so I don't have that much trouble with my steering for now. It would be nice to have the tighter steering radius though, and I have noticed that high speeds on loose dirt are pretty hard to keep straight sometimes.
 
Well it has been a few months and everything is holding up and proforming great. I am very impressed.
 
9 months now and not a single issue.

I have bashed this as hard as you can do and not a single broken or striped part.

Just keep locktight on the four screws on the spindles and make sure all the screws are tight and thats it.

The proformance has also continued to impress me more and more as I have been driving more and more.

Compared to a stock savage the stock savage seems to handle about as well as one of those lumbering Giants you pick up at Toy's r us.
 

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