Roto start clutch setting (1 isn't enough!)

[thedillybar]

I have an HPI Nitro Monster King that I bought back in 2010. Hasn't run in a while. After draining the old fuel, cleaning up the fuel lines & carb, cleaning air filter, I just couldn't get this thing to start. New glow plug, check the ignitor voltage, even reset the carb settings.

I primed until I saw the fuel get through the line to the carburetor. Turned it over for a few seconds. Primed once. Turned it over for a few seconds. Primed again. This time the roto start clutch started slipping and no joy. OK, maybe it's flooded? Open the throttle a little bit, still won't turn it over w/ the roto start.

Finally, I pulled the glow plug & cranked it over. Pinched the fuel line. Roto start still won't turn it over. Hmmm... Turned the flywheel by hand -- yes it has some compression, but not too hard to turn over. I cranked the roto start clutch up 1/2 step at a time. It finally fired (and eventually started) with the clutch at 3.5.

Now that it's run for a while, I'll go back to 1 tomorrow and see if it will start. Have read lots about the one-way bearing and would rather not kill it.

 

[Jam Racing 1]

https://www.hpiracing.com/instructions/10861


that kit didnt last too long, one iteration of it, could actually be worth something to a vintage HPI collector.....

Some pics would be nice to see.....

 

[polarman]

That's why I prefer pull start over roto. You just can't feel when the engine is flooding with the roto. You may want to pull the plug out, turn the truck upside down, and crank it until fuel sprinkles out. Then you know you have a good prime, and not flooded because the plug is removed. In theory, it should fire right up after that. You can leave the plug a little loose to ease the compression( and the stress on the one way bearing) and tighten it back up after it's running. Depending on how long it's been sitting, it may not be a bad idea to disassemble the engine to clean up the internals and re-seal it.