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old savage 21 needing some help


New Member
hey all,
I haven't messed with my nitro cars in yrs. but I would like to try and get the savage going again. I'm missing a wheel and the hex nut (drive hub) located behind the wheel and from what I'm reading it seems things have changed and they're bigger now (17mm)? I'm not sure what size the original is but I think if I remember correctly the wheel nut came loose and wheel came off and stripped out the hex piece and the wheel. From what I gather HPI isn't what it used to be , I used to buy primarily hpi back then.
I'm missing my remote control as well, so if there are any recomendations for new receiver packages as well



Well-Known Member
The original savage 21 like I still have was 14mm wheel hex but I upgraded to 17mm long back, giving stronger set up & more choice of wheel/tyre set up.
I would recommend upgrading to 17mm & should still be able to obtain upgrade from HPI.
I also upgraded to the spectrum DX3 remote & receiver as at time was very advanced as you did not have to worry about crystals & frequencies etc, any newer HPI remote & receiver would be okay off fleabay! 👍🏻


New Member
ok, I'm reading different things on since the original savages had reverse thread on the wheels on one side and the HPI stuff is not in stock. Ive seen people mention losi 17mm adapters and some stuff on ebay, I just want to make sure I'm ordering the right kit so I don't have to return or buy it twice.

I looked up some of the radios, is the flysky Fs-GT5 a good selection? It has more channels than I need but price isnt too bad. I called my local store and they told me they had the Futaba fpv3 for $150. but it seems I don't need to spend that much for what I'm doing here.

I also will need a new set of wheels for the 17mm conversion too right , any recomendation on where to find the proper ones with tires

thanks for the help


Well-Known Member
Dekalb, IL 60115
The older savage's run silver nuts on one side and black on the other, one was reverse thread, can't recall which. To be honest, it didn't seem to matter as they all would still loosen themselves. I got tired of dealing with two kinds of nuts and ended up with normal thread on both sides after changing out the axles.

From what I remember, the 17mm versions all had normal thread on both sides, which would make it difficult for you to deal with as I don't think you will find the larger 17mm adapter nuts in reverse thread anywhere. Some parts are hard to find these days regardless.

If you have a lower power engine, you should still be ok running 14mm anyway, but if you do want to switch to 17mm, there are a few things you can do.
1) go with the HPI 17mm hexes, get 2 more of the standard thread stub axles and get the HPI 17mm flange nuts

2) go with hot racing's 17mm adapter kit, you will still need to get 2 more of the standard thread stub axles as they only come with standard thread barrel nuts to retain/alight the hubs properly.

3) get some cheap 17mm extension adapters and the longer XL standard stub axles. Modify the adapters like I did and do away with the smaller nuts entirely. I'm not finding the part number for the XL extended stubs that are standard cup size.

4) try to find a set of the 14mm hubs and a set of the reverse thread nuts if you still want to run those

5) Try to find a set of the 17mm hub conversion:

I went with #3 on both my X and flux HP, both used the super HD cup/bones.

I did it first on my FluxHP as I snapped off the threaded part of the axle on a bad landing. I had the weird/cheap extensions in a drawer as they came on the flux when I got it. They were intended to use the stock pin and to widen the truck even more, but the design stinks and they were sloppy. I did away with them right out of the gate and went with the standard HPI hex/flange nuts. But, when I busted a threaded end off, I was kind of stuck as at the time, finding replacement stub axles was a bit of a pain. I needed the super HD stub axle that had the larger cup as my flux had the super hd bones on it.

With the hubs cut and modified, I had removed the extra spacer piece that comes on the wide bones, then much more of the hub would fit on the shaft snugly. The wheel hex retains the pin, so there's no need for a nut on the axle itself at all.

These are similar to what I used:

However, you need to get the extended standard cup sized shafts to work with them the best, which I'm not finding a part # for at the moment.

#1 or #2 are likely the easiest route to take as you can still find standard thread short axles around if you look, found a set on ebay at least.


In my opinion, 23mm hubs are still the most stable/burly hubs you can use in conjunction with 23mm 40 series velocity wheels.

Whilst finding the original proline items is a bit of a mission, integy still make 23mm 40 series wheels and tyres. Other after market 23mm hubs are to be found on ebay - usually from China.

17mm hubs are by far the most common as they are used by 1/8th Truggy etc so there will be greater options there.

Here's a pic of 23mm 40 series Rims on my Savage. They're light, unbreakable on nitro, handle really well and look good.


To the best of my knowledge, the integy ones are identical to the old proline ones and cost about $35 for a set of 4. 👍
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