Need engine ideas please totally lost

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Monster-Savage

Monster-Savage

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devon
Hi guys..

After terrible luck with my savage octane I swapped it out and got a revo, but I missed my xl so I bought a complete truck with out a engine.
I was going to fit the original 5.9 back into it but heard alot of stories about them not being a good engine so I need some advice on what to fit in..
I'm fairly new to the rc world been out of touch for a while so not as clever as tou guys on parts etc and what fits...
I have the comeye chassis ready to bolt a engine on..
I want some thing quick of the mark easy to tune and hold a tune and some thing that will slot in with out having to change a million things...

I know this has been coversed a million times before but when I search about it alot of the engines are no longer available so not sure what fits out of the other engines..

Any help would be great.. Thanks guys
 
LRP big blocks are still around and are pretty good. I run a LRP30S2 in mine. Pretty sure they have a spec3 or 4 now as well as a 32.
 
Monster-Savage said:
I was looking at the lrp .32 spec 4. What clutch and fly wheel do I use with it ?
Click to expand...

The same style is used on most big block nitro engines. If you still have the parts off of your K5.9, those will work fine and are what I will link for you. Obviously there are other things out there clutch wise that may or may not be a little better.

Flywheel
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/86271

Clutch shoes
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/86391
 
Are you interested in an LRP ZR. 32 spec 2?

Is modded, complete with jvd-rc 4 shoe clutch ( new shoes and springs) , 17T clutchbell and a Motorsaver airfilter? Selling because I might go brushless..
Huge power.
Broken in using an EBIS system and had max 2 liters of 25% after that.
https://www.facebook.com/EBIS-Easy-Break-In-System-1555148428143130/

Asking €250 plus shipping.
 

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X said:
The same style is used on most big block nitro engines. If you still have the parts off of your K5.9, those will work fine and are what I will link for you. Obviously there are other things out there clutch wise that may or may not be a little better.

Flywheel
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/86271

Clutch shoes
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/86391
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help and reply there mate most useful.
Sadly I don't have any engine or any engine parts at all. I bought it as a complete rolling chassis..
I have a GS racing r25mt engine it fits the mounts but the clutch bell housing fouls the gear box and sounds awful grinding noise from the gears so I guess it's totaly wrong or maybe I just fit those parts you mentioned above ?
Thanks for your help thou guys
 

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I think all you need is another flywheel on that engine.
Or another engine mount, from Nova RC iirc. That one allows you to slide the engine back.
 

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Caretaker109 said:
I think all you need is another flywheel on that engine.
Or another engine mount, from Nova RC iirc. That one allows you to slide the engine back.
Click to expand...

Really ? Mate if that's the case then you have been a great help it just seams like the clutch bell is to far forward and it runs on the very back edge of its gear against the spur gear..
Do you have a link to that mounting ?

I was tempted to go for the twin engine conversion :)

Great help mate thank you so much
 
Yeah, yours kind of looks like a purpose built flywheel for something in RTR form that isn't the savage. I'd just get an savage XL clutch shoes/flywheel/bell off ebay and be done with it. May need to find a clutch shim kit though. The one I'd recommend probably doesn't exist anymore (OFNA, out of business), but whenever installing a flywheel/clutch/bell on an engine, it's a good idea to have proper shims on hand just to get things lined up right.

Well... with HPI being down so long, the XL setup isn't as easy to find. Can still find the savage-X stuff though, which used teflon shoes instead of aluminum:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Savage-X-4-...797247?hash=item5b3803cd7f:g:GroAAOSwblZZE1~U
 
Hi guys not sure if I made a good move or not but I managed to buy a nearly new 5.9 big block for 85 quid off of a friend ran less than ten tanks of gas through it apparantly comes with exhaust manifold and pipe, ROTO start plate, engine saver big block filter and all the clutch and fly wheel etc..
So means I can sell my other engines and fund some better parts for the project..

What is the standard spur gear teeth ? Mines a 47 tooth metal one. I'll be running that against the standard clutch bell. I'm not sure on ratio so not sure what it will do to the car speed or acceleration.
Thanks for your help guys. Great help as usuall
 
The XL runs 16/52 I think, according to the exploded view. But it has BP diffs. Pretty sure the ratio on those is different than the X diffs on down to the 21 savage. The savage X runs stock with 47/17, which is what I run with BP diffs and an LRP30. It pulls that gearing pretty well. Not sure how it compares to the 5.9. Tires also play a big part.
 
The problem is I bought this as a rolling chassis it was ment to be a savage xl now I've stripped it completely down it almost looks like several cars put together.
In light of this I guess I don't know what diffs are in there, I know there all metal but I guess I'll just have to count the teeth.
I opted for this 5.9 because it's a simple bolt in a go same clutch and all that so of I decide to upgrade at a later date I'll have all the parts needed to fit a lrp or some thing like that..
So am I right in saying that a spur with less teeth would make for faster acceleration?
Thanks again guys
 
You got the gearing backwards.
Smaller bell = lower speed, more acceleration/torque
Larger bell = higher speed, less acceleration/torque
Smaller spur = higher speed, less acceleration/torque
Larger spur = lower speed, more acceleration/torque

For my previous comment about "diffs being BP or not" changing the output ratio, I was kind of wrong. They differ, but not much.
BP gears: 29/9 - 3.22222222222:1
Standard: 43/13 - 3.30769230769:1

This means the BP diffs will be 2.6% slower, so not that big of a difference I guess. Around 1 tooth on the spur, depending on the spur, so not overly noticeable difference regardless of the diffs.

That said, I'm guessing the 5.9 will be able to pull 17/47 gearing just fine regardless of the diffs you have.

It would come down to tires and terrain at that point. Huge tires change how things hold up and how well the engine does. Rough terrain or reasonbley tall grass also add drag vs running on pavement. Most people that have a savage don't spend a lot of time on pavement, unless it's a skate park for jumps or some such.

Personally, I run a steel spur. I was never a fan of steel spurs, but running steel was the only way I could run 49/16+ gearing in my savage with my LRP28. When I tried running that tall (or more), the slipper would slip and melt the center of the spur within a tank of running. For the longest time, I ran 49/15, which wasn't that fast and was horribly undergeared for the LRP28. Just basically did wheelies everywhere and hit top speed in 25 feet, if I could keep the front end down. So, I gave in and got a HPI 47T steel spur, heavy duty 16T bell as well as alloy clutch shoes and haven't looked back. I then went to a 17T bell and recently tried an 18T with the LRP30. It could pull the gearing, but in an offroad environment, it labored quite a bit until it got up to speed, so I dropped back down to 47/17. I'm running traxxas 3.8 rims with 3.8 traxxas chevrons on them. Similar in size to old school savage tires, just less sidewall.

Anyway, probably way more info than you needed/wanted. Hope it helps anyway.
 
Very good rundown and comparison....got a brand new savage 4.6 and I am thinking of the .30 or .32 spec 4...maybe the .32 will push out a bit more all around preformance out of the 18t or 19t bell but stock 17t seems to handle diffrent conditions and terrain....probably why they come stock like that. I'm just going off what I've read I have yet to break mine in and test all my theorys I have come up with while waiting on fuel....another week or so till it arrives
 
At some point, regardless of the engines capabilities, you will hit a mechanical limitation with gearing depending on where you run. Even if the engine can pull 20/47 without overheating it, odds are, your clutch will fry on you. Your still dealing with a fairly heavy truck that has a pretty bulky drivetrain. That's kind of what I ran into with the LRP30 with 18/47. The engine ran cool enough with a good tune, but in offroad, the clutch really took a beating until the truck picked up some speed.
 
Right guys my 5.9 engine has turned up and it's running a 14 tooth bell housing and a 47 tooth spur gear. Its going in my savage xl which I can only assume has bp diffs. Does any body know what my ratio will be ?
Do I need a different set of gears ? I was thinking of going back standard gearing but though I'd ask the professionals first ;-)
Cheers guys
 
Run it and see how it does and how you like it. You might find it's geared right for you as is. That said, I'm surprised 14/47 fits. Would have expected the motor to not adjust far enough to get good mesh.

2015-1106-HPISavageGearingChart.jpg


That's an old chart. Maybe the XL has different geometry that lets the engine move closer to the spur. Pretty sure on the old 21, the bell would hit the brake disk. Or the screws would hit the end of the slot on the motor plate.
 
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