LRP ZR.32X Competition vs Novarossi LEGEND 28-8 for Savage

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j321

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10
Hi,

What would be best overall Engine for a HPI SAVAGE X (3 speed)

LRP ZR.32X Competition or Novarossi LEGEND 28-8

Is there any difference between the LRP X Competition version vs Pullstart version in terms of spec/performance?


To convert the X into to Roto Start would I just need this?

http://www.lrp.cc/en/product/rotostart-set-complete-for-lrp-28-32-engines-exclude-sport-engines/


What would be best overall gearing for these engines in a Savage. Would want to have good blend of Torque and Top speed.

Any other suggestions let me know

Thanks
 
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Interesting comparison, kind of like a chevy Silverado to a ferrari. Although I have never owned a nova engine they are know to be high quality powerful engines. The Lrp you mentioned is ok, lots of guys them in a savage. I have an older spec 2 .32 and hate it but thats just because I’m picky about tuning and it just isn’t consistant. Maybe they are better now.
I think that nova is a turbo head motor so you’ll have to use turbo glow plugs which can be expensive, just something to keep in mind.
 

You also need a one way bearing (38491) and starter shaft which looks like it's sold with a PS backplate (38557). Luckily, the crank is the same. Guessing the X has a relief cut in it for the starter nub of the crank to spin in without contacting the backplate. Not sure, but you may need the little spring that holds the starter shaft into the engine so it doesn't rub on the housing. It comes with the pull starter housing (38556)...
 
The 7 port is a truggy engine. The 8 port legend is the mt engine. So between the two you listed, lrp.32

The ultimate mt engine woukd be TNS LRP.32. In modded form this engine is an animal. Also comes with a Nova carb.
 
I just ordered the novarossi legend .28-8 port roto start. I can't wait to get it , it is supposed to b awesome. U can order the nova .28-7 port for $190.00 or the legend .28-8 for $179.00 USD off of
Novarossi direct usa
 
The 7 port is a truggy engine. The 8 port legend is the mt engine. So between the two you listed, lrp.32

The ultimate mt engine woukd be TNS LRP.32. In modded form this engine is an animal. Also comes with a Nova carb.
OK, Thanks for reply.

What about between a TNS LRP.32 vs TNS LEGEND 28-8

http://www.thenitroshop.com/

Are modified engines worth the extra price in terms overall performance, power (will be used for Bashing and On Road)?
Do you have any/experience with TNS engines e.g TNS LRP.32....

Do you know if the owner Neal still modifies engines and if he ships to Europe?
 
I just ordered the novarossi legend .28-8 port roto start. I can't wait to get it , it is supposed to b awesome. U can order the nova .28-7 port for $190.00 or the legend .28-8 for $179.00 USD off of
Novarossi direct usa
Let me know how it goes/runs

Thanks
 
You also need a one way bearing (38491) and starter shaft which looks like it's sold with a PS backplate (38557). Luckily, the crank is the same. Guessing the X has a relief cut in it for the starter nub of the crank to spin in without contacting the backplate. Not sure, but you may need the little spring that holds the starter shaft into the engine so it doesn't rub on the housing. It comes with the pull starter housing (38556)...
Thanks for reply.

I did message LRP and they said you only need the roto start set.
http://www.lrp.cc/en/product/rotostart-set-complete-for-lrp-28-32-engines-exclude-sport-engines/

I also thought that you require the items you listed in order to convert the X version to Roto start so not sure why they said you only require the roto start set.

Do you know if there is any difference between the LRP X Competition version vs Pullstart version in terms of performance?
 
Yes i do own one of neals lrp.32s. Also a nova 5 port and paloma.21.
The nova will pull a little higher rpm. Tge lrp will pull wheels in 2nd gear. He has a video of one doing a standing backflip. It is the current baddest mt engine you can buy.
 
Thanks for reply.

I did message LRP and they said you only need the roto start set.
http://www.lrp.cc/en/product/rotostart-set-complete-for-lrp-28-32-engines-exclude-sport-engines/

I also thought that you require the items you listed in order to convert the X version to Roto start so not sure why they said you only require the roto start set.

Do you know if there is any difference between the LRP X Competition version vs Pullstart version in terms of performance?
That would suggest the kit includes more than what's pictured then. I'd order it, but be prepared to get disappointed when you still need to get the other parts I mentioned when it shows up.
 
Personally, I prefer pull start over roto-start any day. It's less stuff I have to lug around and keep charged, and I can "feel" if the engine begins to flood more easily to avoid cracking a one-way bearing or something.
 
Personally, I prefer pull start over roto-start any day. It's less stuff I have to lug around and keep charged, and I can "feel" if the engine begins to flood more easily to avoid cracking a one-way bearing or something.
I'm the same. The ez-start was one of the first things I pulled off my revo's and jato. I like to feel what the engine is doing. If tuned right, 3-4 pulls and they are usually running. Break-in is a pain though.
 
On the modded engine; I was considering getting one of these this summer for the hell of it. My 4.6 is fast.. but I want insane. That’s just how I roll. LOL
But, being a noob, I don’t know if any of the options listed on his site are necessary. For instance; what’s a NOVA 41064 and is precision piston lapping something that I’d want for a casual basher?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!



Sorry for the thread hyjack. I’ll make a new post if I need to.
 
That nova number is for a header he reccomends along with the 9886 pipe. That is for max power not 100% necc. To start.

Percision piston lapping is wearing in the piston percisely for maximum squinch. Better pinch more power.
 
Awesome I appreciate it!

Should I upgrade the diffs and transmission before installing that new engine? I read that the eMaxx diffs were a huge improvement over stock X units.
 
Awesome I appreciate it!

Should I upgrade the diffs and transmission before installing that new engine? I read that the eMaxx diffs were a huge improvement over stock X units.


E Maxx diffs are way smaller than a Savage X is, if you looking for strong go with the Savage 29/9 hardened gears with the alloy diff cups and be done, make sure to shim them correctly also....

As for the transmission it outta be good to go like it comes out of the box....
 
E Maxx diffs are way smaller than a Savage X is, if you looking for strong go with the Savage 29/9 hardened gears with the alloy diff cups and be done, make sure to shim them correctly also....

As for the transmission it outta be good to go like it comes out of the box....

Thanks man. I actually meant Savage Flux don’t know why I said E Maxx.

Thanks though! I’ll look up how to shim properly.
 
Thanks man. I actually meant Savage Flux don’t know why I said E Maxx.

Thanks though! I’ll look up how to shim properly.
The flux BP diffs are the best of them as the ring gear is machined vs sintered like I think the XL/octane had. However, with nitro, you should be fine with sintered or machined as long as you go with the BP style (29T ring/9T pinion) as nitro doesn't have near the low end torque of brushless regardless of the engine. Pretty sure I have the sintered ones in my X that I have 2-3 gallons of an LRP28 through and a couple more with an LRP30 through them. You just have to keep an eye on the bearings. HPI was kind of retarded with that, they use a thin bearing on one side of the diff and it has a tendency to blow out.
 

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