Lrp .32 spec 2

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ikesavage

ikesavage

Well-Known Member
Messages
264
Location
Canosburg
I'm ready to break in my new motor and after set back after set back its finally ready to go, after some fresh fuel another glow plug and I bought a new glow igniter with a new battery this motor WILL not start, I get a quick kick over and then nothing. It is primed and the throttle trim is set a little high for starting only. I have reset the niddle settings because I believe it was flooding because the glow plug was soaked with fuel. I'm to the point of selling this because I can't ever enjoy it.
 
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What's the engine temp when your trying to start it? I've found that none of my LRP's (have had 5 or 6) like starting at all when the engine is less than 70F. And when breaking in, starting was much easier if you heated up to at least 80F.

I mean, literally, you can pull and pull and pull for an hour and it won't even try to fire. Then heat it up to 80F and it will crack off on the first pull.
 
olds97_lss said:
What's the engine temp when your trying to start it? I've found that none of my LRP's (have had 5 or 6) like starting at all when the engine is less than 70F. And when breaking in, starting was much easier if you heated up to at least 80F.

I mean, literally, you can pull and pull and pull for an hour and it won't even try to fire. Then heat it up to 80F and it will crack off on the first pull.
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Ive gotten a few kick overs and thats all as for the temp just what ever it is out side I think yesterday was in the mid 60's will a hair dryer work?
 
Hair dryer is fine. Just give it a few minutes right on the head to saturate the entire engine with heat. Seems silly, but literally night and day difference on all my LRP's. < 70F and they fight you. When it's even below 80F outside, I keep them under the heater in my car on the way to the bash site and they always fire right up.
 
ikesavage said:
I'm ready to break in my new motor and after set back after set back its finally ready to go, after some fresh fuel another glow plug and I bought a new glow igniter with a new battery this motor WILL not start, I get a quick kick over and then nothing. It is primed and the throttle trim is set a little high for starting only. I have reset the niddle settings because I believe it was flooding because the glow plug was soaked with fuel. I'm to the point of selling this because I can't ever enjoy it.
Click to expand...
Hi
I have a savage with the same engine and like you cant get it to start and on the verge of selling it. I have it on factory setting 1mm idle gap tried hair dryer but no luck would like to hear from you if you get yours going.
 
Skyline, are you sure you are getting fuel into the engine? Prime it well by blowing into the air line from the exhaust pipe. You should at least get a fire out of it. Have you tested the glow plug?
 
GAJ said:
Skyline, are you sure you are getting fuel into the engine? Prime it well by blowing into the air line from the exhaust pipe. You should at least get a fire out of it. Have you tested the glow plug?
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Yes I'm getting fuel and glow plug is new
 
Well after all the tips and other stuff heating the head with a blow dryer changes the glow plug for the 3rd time new battery in the igniter and STILL nothing. WTF!!!
 
ikesavage said:
Well after all the tips and other stuff heating the head with a blow dryer changes the glow plug for the 3rd time new battery in the igniter and STILL nothing. WTF!!!
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Does it even try to fire?? is sounds as if either the idle opening is too large or it is not getting fuel to the carb.....
 
Hi
I hope you get there soon mate because i am nearly there, last time it fired up and idled nicely then suddenly the spur gear came off. So i turned it off and now I'm checking everything making sure its right before i wake up the beast and a beast it is as i felt the power whilst idling. I tell you summat tje guys on the forum are A1 they will sort it out. Managed to get my rig free rolling now just have to get the spur and bell mesh right then i think it will be ready.
 
Well I pulled the motor out and apart. Tons of oil in side from trying to start it I'm guessing, but upon tare down to check for and loose bolts or air leaks, I have found that the sleeve has an extremely hard part in the up and down stroke. I did manage to carefully pull it out and the rotating assembly and it turns over nice and smooth. But as for the sleeve I don't see and thing that would cause it to get hung up and when I went to put the sleeve back in it was very tight also. Any ideas?
 
The top of the sleeve is where the pinch is. The pinch creates the compression for the engine. This is where the break in is important. This is also why it helps to pre-warm the engine before starting a new engine.
 
GAJ said:
The top of the sleeve is where the pinch is. The pinch creates the compression for the engine. This is where the break in is important. This is also why it helps to pre-warm the engine before starting a new engine.
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What he's saying is, the "binding" your feeling is a good thing as it means your engine has it's pinch still.

To further explain, these engines don't have rings on the piston to create a seal. They rely on tight tolerances between the piston and the sleeve wall. The sleeve is actually tapered from the top of the exhaust port on up. When the engine warms up, the sleeve expands ever so slightly, so the taper of the sleeve (pinch) is less pronounced. As an engine breaks in, the piston grinds down a bit to fit the sleeve better when warm causing even less binding. As mentioned, this is why you don't turn over a cold engine without the intent of starting it as your causing excess wear.

Eventually, the fit between the piston and sleeve will become sloppy (on a microscopic scale) which will cause loss of compression and the combustion will blow past the piston causing poor tuning, low power and random flame outs. Hopefully, this happens after you get many gallons of use out of the engine.
 
Thanks, I did not know that about a new engine. I hope by getting all that excessive fuel out and seal it, it will finally start.
 
All the LRP's I've had took quite a bit of fuel before the tune calmed down. The first few tanks were rough on the fingers, but didn't usually have too hard of a time getting them going. I think 90% of my most recent issues with my 30 were due to the manual being way off for break-in settings. All the 28's went pretty easy... still got blisters though from the pull starts.
 
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