Lrp 32 so

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Stripersniper

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I got a savage x about 8 months ago and basically dogged it for 6 gallons and motor pretty much trashed. It's all stock except I replaced pipe with dyn 086 and put robinson spur and bell on it. So I ordered the 32 spec 4 and it arrived yesterday. I'm going to throw this thing on and break in today. Not really, nothing seems to fit, roto start binds when I tighten it down so I read to leave screws loose but loctite them. I don't really like that idea, wondering if I file back washer down some if it will work more freely, thinking it's too thick. Also header dosent really seem to fit at exhaust port. Took all I had to get it on there but still don't like the way it's fitting. Next I've been reading this morning and thinking maybe I need to slow down and seal the engine, atleast the back plate and carb, also I have stock fuel system which dosent have a filter and stock air filter. So I'm not sure what all I need to do, I know I need new clutch shoes also, I'm kinda to the point of tired of buying stuff lol. Any suggestions as to most important part of the above items I need to focus on. Also I never looked where piston was on old motor when I shut it off and read it ruins it if stopped at tdc so guess I need to start watching that. I've definitely got alot to learn
 
I have had an LRP .32 and a .28 in my Savage and they go right in. I used the LRP rotostart backplate. it is rotatable so you can line it up for good access. I do not seal my engines. That is your call. The stock fuel system and air filter will work fine. I used the HPI tuned pipe and it fit perfectly. The .32 will eat clutch shoes. I would suggest a set of Dynamite max life clutch shoes with 1.0 springs. You didnt say but I run 18/49 gearing with the .32. It is a beast.
 
The roto start didn't bind when tightened down? I've read it's common issue. It's whatever stock numbers are on bell and spur. 17 47 I think. Yea I 3rd set of shoes on now and there dynamites, worn out but they did last longer than previous I tried. Well thanks for the input, was getting a little frustrated. I let engine mount at work yesterday so going to get it put on today hopefully
 
francis Labarbara said:
Mine fit correctly. I think I'm going back to pull start now. I am glad I had the rotostart breaking it in.
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Why you going back to pull start? I don't see this roto start working as good as stock hpi did but we'll see. I just realized when blowing out fuel tank it has a filter so that's a plus. Stock throttle arm has a slot for a return spring and a spring, no slot or spring on this one but I'm thinking it still needs it correct?
 
On mine the spring is on the carb itself. One end of the spring hooks around the HSN housing and the other to the carb slide where the linkage connects. Bottom of pic

Once your engines are broken in pull start is easier.


HPI_Cam_Servo_Saver_Return_Spring.jpg
 
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francis Labarbara said:
On mine the spring is on the carb itself. One end of the spring hooks around the HSN housing and the other to the carb slide where the linkage connects. Bottom of pic

Once your engines are broken in pull start is easier.


HPI_Cam_Servo_Saver_Return_Spring.jpg
Click to expand...
Yea that's how mine was but no place to hook spring on lrp where it went on 4.6. I took linkage off 4.6 and put on lrp to get spring it. It's all mounted up, hopefully break in tomm. I know one thing I hate abt roto start is if it dies 50 yards away u have to tote drill out there or truck back so pull start would be good there. I only had one other nitro a long time ago and pull start was always tearing up so all I've had are issues. Maybe these are better. Roto start is on it now tough. Have to made a bit to fit it tough. Didn't order one.
 
Personally, I prefer pull-starts. I've put an LRP28 and 30 in my savage X without much installation issue. I like the pull start because you can feel/sense more what the engine is doing. Break-in of some engines is tough... but I muscle through it.

I had fuel delivery problems with both using the stock tank. I don't know if it's me, the engine or the tanks, but the LRP's hate the stock tank for me. I even tried a new tank and new lines, still ran awful and hot hot (270F-300F)!

I've run an old OFNA 125cc buggy tank on my savage for years to not have to deal with the stock tank, but the seals are shot as is the spring holding the lid on. Now the tank doesn't exist to purchase, so I had to fab up something for a different OFNA tank I found. As soon as I installed it, it seemed all my issues went away again. Pretty sure I have an entire thread on it somewhere, going from the LRP28 being a pain to getting a new 30 and it working ok for a few tanks of break-in, then sucking again until I ditched the stock tanks.
 
olds97_lss said:
Personally, I prefer pull-starts. I've put an LRP28 and 30 in my savage X without much installation issue. I like the pull start because you can feel/sense more what the engine is doing. Break-in of some engines is tough... but I muscle through it.

I had fuel delivery problems with both using the stock tank. I don't know if it's me, the engine or the tanks, but the LRP's hate the stock tank for me. I even tried a new tank and new lines, still ran awful and hot hot (270F-300F)!

I've run an old OFNA 125cc buggy tank on my savage for years to not have to deal with the stock tank, but the seals are shot as is the spring holding the lid on. Now the tank doesn't exist to purchase, so I had to fab up something for a different OFNA tank I found. As soon as I installed it, it seemed all my issues went away again. Pretty sure I have an entire thread on it somewhere, going from the LRP28 being a pain to getting a new 30 and it working ok for a few tanks of break-in, then sucking again until I ditched the stock tanks.
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Ahh, hope I don't have issues. I was going to break in today but didn't get time. I need some help on this, tested my linkages etc a few minutes ago and carb slide won't work freely. I took linkage loose and it's in the slide not linkage. I had to turn carb around so did I screw it up? Wonder if i over tightend carb or something. I did try spin the ball linkage snaps into to align it up better.
 
francis Labarbara said:
If it is bound up the Idle screw has jumped out of the slot it runs in. Take it out and realign it into the slot.
Guess how I learned this stuff. LOL
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Lol, I'm tinkering with it now. I'll take screw out. Thanks for your help btw
francis Labarbara said:
If it is bound up the Idle screw has jumped out of the slot it runs in. Take it out and realign it into the slot.
Guess how I learned this stuff. LOL
Click to expand...
Never could get it free, just pulled carb and no matter which way i put slide in it gets tight when it hits middle of carb. I don't see any alignment pins. Do I need to get a tiny file and try to file any burrs off?
 

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Stripersniper said:
Lol, I'm tinkering with it now. I'll take screw out. Thanks for your help btw

Never could get it free, just pulled carb and no matter which way i put slide in it gets tight when it hits middle of carb. I don't see any alignment pins. Do I need to get a tiny file and try to file any burrs off?
Click to expand...
I figured it out, it burred slide a tiny little bit where idle screw was so I have some 2000 grit sand paper and taking the burr off. First time in a carb so learning as I go lol
 
Got it broke in yesterday pretty much. I'm gonna be easy on it first few times I run. Thing seem crazy strong, I was barely touching trigger and instant wheelies. Allready skinned the head too uggg. Had zip tie on it but it snapped off. I was wondering about little issue. Sometimes when I roll truck wheels lock down. Can jerk it back and frees up. Dosent do it all the time, any idea weather it's a differential or trans or brakes possible catching?? It's been this way a while, figured whatever it is would have broke by now.
 
Could possibly the brakes, does it have the red discs?? I had some grabbiness in my truck at first so I went to the stainless discs and am happy with them now.....
 
Check your center diff cups. When they get big notches worn in them over time, they start to grab the ears on the dog bones. If left long enough, they will actually just shear off the dog bone. I've had it happen more than once on the old savage 21 platform. The trans/diff angle was more pronounced than in the new X/XL rig, so they tended to wear pretty fast. I'd change diff cups at least twice a season because of it.
 
I'll check diff cups, does have red brake pads and there's some gouges in them and chunks missing.
 
Well it sounds as if ya got life outta them discs so that is half the trouble, with as many tanks ya have on it most likely the cups are slotted also so some parts need to be sourced....
Time for a teardown and inspect either way....
 
Thanks for yalls help!! I've been running it a little here and there. Motors slick, just hope I didn't ruin it. Was running on gravel and flipped over. I didn't put ziptie on breather as I've been doing break in and not jumping etc. It was pretty snug without tie but it fell off and saw some sand type debris in intake. Took carb off and blew out then blew out down in crankcase. I ran it again and seems ok but time will tell.
 
Forgot also I broke gear on roto start allready. Screw came out and it cocked over sideways and snapped. I haven't liked that roto start from when I saw it. Put pull starter on and I'm cranking it faster with it than roto. 2 or 3 pulls and fires up. Pretty pleased with that.
 
I prefer pull starts as well. Can be a pain with a fussy engine... but then it's an excuse to upgrade!
 
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