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LRP.28

Discussion in 'Nitro Engines' started by Scar1, Jul 24, 2018.

  1. Scar1

    Scar1 Member

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    Hi,
    its me again I having just brought a brand new LRP.28 ENGINE, I am having such bad problems starting engine. I have followed the manual about priming etc, I spent 3-5 hours on and off trying to start but gave up,i tried the next day and with an hour it started. I tried this evening for about 2 hours and nothing you can hear it sort of try and start but nothing. I have warmed up engine,changed plug etc but nothing am I doing something wrong?
    PLEASE HELP!!!!
    The engine is in a HPI savage 4.6,and I am using a pull starter
     
  2. ELWOOD

    ELWOOD Well-Known Member

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    I had trouble starting my new 4.6-V2 at initial break-in. I ended up turning the HSN in (LEAN) about 2 hours from flush before it would start . Pre heating engine head makes a big difference.
    Quick short fast pulls on pull start are best,,I get down close to truck to limit pulling to far.
     
  3. Scar1

    Scar1 Member

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    I its so frustrating tho for two days trying to start. The HSN is just over flush and the LSN seem to be in about 2-3 turns from flush, I did pre heat engine but did not make a difference apart from being easier to turn over. I will have a go with what you said.
     
  4. ELWOOD

    ELWOOD Well-Known Member

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    I hear you , It took me trying for a couple hours over three days to get mine to start .I think I ended up a 1/4 turn in on the HSN before it would start and idle.
     
  5. Scar1

    Scar1 Member

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    I turned the LSN out a full turn warmed up engine full charged glow charger half hour later it started!!! I was so happy got to do again tomorrow can not wait
     
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  6. ELWOOD

    ELWOOD Well-Known Member

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    Good to hear you are making progress
     
  7. Nadboo

    Nadboo Member

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    When I broke in my lrp 30,it wouldn’t start and run for almost the first tank n half. It would just start then die. By the end of the second tank I was able idle and do very slow circles. Don’t give man!!! Just keep trying. Keep extra plugs on hand, I tend to foul them up quicker during breakin, that may just be me.
     
  8. Scar1

    Scar1 Member

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    another good session today started within about 10mins so I am getting there, my third tank full now thank you all for the info
     
  9. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Well-Known Member

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    LRP's are tough break-in engines. I've had 4 or 5 of them. They don't fully seat/stabilize until you get a bit over a gallon through them. Then the tune becomes much more stable and the power really starts to show up. When breaking in, I'd heat them up to 100F or more, back the glowplug out 1/4 turn, put the heater on for 5-10 seconds after priming, then pull the cord. It would usually fire in a couple pulls. Then I'd pick it up, rev it a bit, remove the heater and tighten the plug back up. I do know that I usually started about 1/4 turn leaner than factory on both needles. For me, factory was always too rich.

    I don't recall ever having issues getting them going though for break-in. They do really like being warmed up to at least 100F though. Even when broken in, they do not like starting when under 70F. I don't know why, but all of mine were that way with 1 gallon or 10 through them.

    I ran odonnel medium (purple) plugs with byrons race 2500 (25%) nitro. The manual for the LRP28 suggested using 25%. At the time, I was using 20% in everything. So, I got a gallon of 25% just for that engine. Then when I ran out of 20%, I just stuck with 25% for everything. I did run one once on 20% because I ran out of fuel while out bashing with friends, went through the 1000cc's I took with me that day. So, I ran a tank or two of their 20%. Was surprised at the difference in how the engine reacted. Ran hotter and stumbled a lot. Didn't run nearly as well.
     
  10. Scar1

    Scar1 Member

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    yes I am getting there.
    thank you
     
  11. Scar1

    Scar1 Member

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    Yes they are very tough but I think I’m getting there now I’ve just ran the 4th tank through
    I do use a heat gun to warm up first I don’t know what temperature I warm it up to tho.
    Thanks for your information
    I’ll try up load a video
     
  12. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Well-Known Member

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    You should get a temp gun. Pretty much a necessity with RC, nitro or electric.
     
  13. Scar1

    Scar1 Member

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    Think I answered that question incorrectly I have got a temp gun
    Will use that next time
     
  14. Scar1

    Scar1 Member

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    Finally run in 9 tank fulls now it starts to bog
    Mmmmmmmmm

     
  15. Jam Racing 1

    Jam Racing 1 NPTB Monitor, Master of the known universe....
    HPISF Staff

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    Lean the high end needle (clockwise) by a couple hours and see how that does.....
     
  16. Scar1

    Scar1 Member

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    Do you mean 2 turns clockwise?
     
  17. Samuelviani1

    Samuelviani1 Member

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    Imagine the needle is a clook so turn it just a couple of hours thats what he means
     
  18. Jam Racing 1

    Jam Racing 1 NPTB Monitor, Master of the known universe....
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  19. Scar1

    Scar1 Member

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    Ok ok yeah I understand so if it 12 o’clock turn it to 2 o’clock

    Thanks
     
  20. olds97_lss

    olds97_lss Well-Known Member

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    Probably rich on the LSN and lean on the HSN. LRP's can be fussy for a while. When mine do that, it's usually the case, I've over adjusted stuff and lost track where I was. Or, the o-ring in the HSN dried up and it's moving on it's own due to vibration. That's probably not your issue. That happens after it sits on the shelf for a year or so without being used.
     
  21. Scar1

    Scar1 Member

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    Ok I’m going to try adjusting needle this week hopefully

    I had an LRP.32 and it was the same I thought the engine had a problem then I sold it not I know that’s not the case,I find them very temperamental but once run all ok.
    I’m am going to run one more tank that would be 10 tanks and return back to factory settings I this the manual says
    Factory hsn 5 turns
    Lsn 3.5
    From closed

    Basic settings hsn 4 1/4
    Lsn 3 1/4
     

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