LRP.28

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Hi,
its me again I having just brought a brand new LRP.28 ENGINE, I am having such bad problems starting engine. I have followed the manual about priming etc, I spent 3-5 hours on and off trying to start but gave up,i tried the next day and with an hour it started. I tried this evening for about 2 hours and nothing you can hear it sort of try and start but nothing. I have warmed up engine,changed plug etc but nothing am I doing something wrong?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
The engine is in a HPI savage 4.6,and I am using a pull starter
 

ELWOOD

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Hi,
its me again I having just brought a brand new LRP.28 ENGINE, I am having such bad problems starting engine. I have followed the manual about priming etc, I spent 3-5 hours on and off trying to start but gave up,i tried the next day and with an hour it started. I tried this evening for about 2 hours and nothing you can hear it sort of try and start but nothing. I have warmed up engine,changed plug etc but nothing am I doing something wrong?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
The engine is in a HPI savage 4.6,and I am using a pull starter

I had trouble starting my new 4.6-V2 at initial break-in. I ended up turning the HSN in (LEAN) about 2 hours from flush before it would start . Pre heating engine head makes a big difference.
Quick short fast pulls on pull start are best,,I get down close to truck to limit pulling to far.
 
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I its so frustrating tho for two days trying to start. The HSN is just over flush and the LSN seem to be in about 2-3 turns from flush, I did pre heat engine but did not make a difference apart from being easier to turn over. I will have a go with what you said.
 

ELWOOD

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I hear you , It took me trying for a couple hours over three days to get mine to start .I think I ended up a 1/4 turn in on the HSN before it would start and idle.
 
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I turned the LSN out a full turn warmed up engine full charged glow charger half hour later it started!!! I was so happy got to do again tomorrow can not wait
 
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When I broke in my lrp 30,it wouldn’t start and run for almost the first tank n half. It would just start then die. By the end of the second tank I was able idle and do very slow circles. Don’t give man!!! Just keep trying. Keep extra plugs on hand, I tend to foul them up quicker during breakin, that may just be me.
 
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another good session today started within about 10mins so I am getting there, my third tank full now thank you all for the info
 

olds97_lss

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LRP's are tough break-in engines. I've had 4 or 5 of them. They don't fully seat/stabilize until you get a bit over a gallon through them. Then the tune becomes much more stable and the power really starts to show up. When breaking in, I'd heat them up to 100F or more, back the glowplug out 1/4 turn, put the heater on for 5-10 seconds after priming, then pull the cord. It would usually fire in a couple pulls. Then I'd pick it up, rev it a bit, remove the heater and tighten the plug back up. I do know that I usually started about 1/4 turn leaner than factory on both needles. For me, factory was always too rich.

I don't recall ever having issues getting them going though for break-in. They do really like being warmed up to at least 100F though. Even when broken in, they do not like starting when under 70F. I don't know why, but all of mine were that way with 1 gallon or 10 through them.

I ran odonnel medium (purple) plugs with byrons race 2500 (25%) nitro. The manual for the LRP28 suggested using 25%. At the time, I was using 20% in everything. So, I got a gallon of 25% just for that engine. Then when I ran out of 20%, I just stuck with 25% for everything. I did run one once on 20% because I ran out of fuel while out bashing with friends, went through the 1000cc's I took with me that day. So, I ran a tank or two of their 20%. Was surprised at the difference in how the engine reacted. Ran hotter and stumbled a lot. Didn't run nearly as well.
 
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Good to hear you are making progress
yes I am getting there.
thank you
LRP's are tough break-in engines. I've had 4 or 5 of them. They don't fully seat/stabilize until you get a bit over a gallon through them. Then the tune becomes much more stable and the power really starts to show up. When breaking in, I'd heat them up to 100F or more, back the glowplug out 1/4 turn, put the heater on for 5-10 seconds after priming, then pull the cord. It would usually fire in a couple pulls. Then I'd pick it up, rev it a bit, remove the heater and tighten the plug back up. I do know that I usually started about 1/4 turn leaner than factory on both needles. For me, factory was always too rich.

I don't recall ever having issues getting them going though for break-in. They do really like being warmed up to at least 100F though. Even when broken in, they do not like starting when under 70F. I don't know why, but all of mine were that way with 1 gallon or 10 through them.

I ran odonnel medium (purple) plugs with byrons race 2500 (25%) nitro. The manual for the LRP28 suggested using 25%. At the time, I was using 20% in everything. So, I got a gallon of 25% just for that engine. Then when I ran out of 20%, I just stuck with 25% for everything. I did run one once on 20% because I ran out of fuel while out bashing with friends, went through the 1000cc's I took with me that day. So, I ran a tank or two of their 20%. Was surprised at the difference in how the engine reacted. Ran hotter and stumbled a lot. Didn't run nearly as well.
 
Thread starter #11
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Yes they are very tough but I think I’m getting there now I’ve just ran the 4th tank through
I do use a heat gun to warm up first I don’t know what temperature I warm it up to tho.
Thanks for your information
I’ll try up load a video
 

Jam Racing 1

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Lean the high end needle (clockwise) by a couple hours and see how that does.....
 

olds97_lss

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Probably rich on the LSN and lean on the HSN. LRP's can be fussy for a while. When mine do that, it's usually the case, I've over adjusted stuff and lost track where I was. Or, the o-ring in the HSN dried up and it's moving on it's own due to vibration. That's probably not your issue. That happens after it sits on the shelf for a year or so without being used.
 
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Probably rich on the LSN and lean on the HSN. LRP's can be fussy for a while. When mine do that, it's usually the case, I've over adjusted stuff and lost track where I was. Or, the o-ring in the HSN dried up and it's moving on it's own due to vibration. That's probably not your issue. That happens after it sits on the shelf for a year or so without being used.
Ok I’m going to try adjusting needle this week hopefully

I had an LRP.32 and it was the same I thought the engine had a problem then I sold it not I know that’s not the case,I find them very temperamental but once run all ok.
I’m am going to run one more tank that would be 10 tanks and return back to factory settings I this the manual says
Factory hsn 5 turns
Lsn 3.5
From closed

Basic settings hsn 4 1/4
Lsn 3 1/4
 
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