latest savage edition?

[99xjturd]

So when I unboxed my X 4.6 a couple weeks ago It didnt cross my mind that it had the older nitro start drill starter with it. Fast forward to last night, during my post-run clean/loose screw check. I noticed my plastic spur was missing a chunk including a tooth or two and a few of the teeth looked distorted. I figure my mesh was too tight even though I used the paper method. In all honesty I think that method produces too tight of a mesh so my fault there. New spur in the mail. I'll set it by feel like I always have on my other rc's. Soooooo when I ordered the new spur gear I asked why I had gotten an older model that didnt come with the newer roto start 2. I also read on HPI's website about the newer truck having stouter bevel gears so I asked about that as well. Hobbico/Tower is warranting the new roto start setup and shipping me two sets of BP bevel gears. Anything else I should be asking for?! Once again I'm blown away by Tower and Hobbico's customer service.

 

[WoodiE]

@99xjturd one trick I've used for a long time when setting gear mesh is to use the plastic packaging the new spur gear comes in. I set the plastic bag in between the spur and bell and make sure the bag can easily be pulled between the two gears.

The double thickness of the bag seems to make a perfect gear mesh... at least for me.

What's the model number of your Savage? You might have an older version shipped to you by the sounds of it.

 

[Jam Racing 1]

sounds like you got it pretty well covered there, having the 4 gear diffs and alloy diff cups is a must if you plan on bashing hard with the rig..... I would also go for the RR steel spur and bell combo setup they have for it, no more melted spurs and mesh stays put without chipping off teeth on the spur gear...

 

[99xjturd]

Sounds like a good trick. Those parts baggies are a wee bit thicker arent they? Any tips on squaring my engine so that the centerline of the CB is running parallel to the spur/tranny input shaft. I don't want to melt another one!

 

[99xjturd]

Would the model number be on the box?

 

[Jam Racing 1]

it should almost self square, I usually set my mesh by feel and tighten one screw down lightly and check by eye to see if it aligned and tighten the remaining 3 down a bit and check again once I am happy I take em out 1 at a time and locktite em in and give the mesh another look see and if is all good it is ready to go....

 

[Jam Racing 1]

your model number should be on the first page of your instruction manual......

 

[X]

I do pretty much what Jam has outlined above for setting mesh. I've had the same 16/48 Robinson Racing metal gear set for 6 or 7 years and have never damaged them.

 

[99xjturd]

The manual starts with page 2. Page 1 being the cover. There is a volume number which is
1 109525. Complete gibberish? Page 2 is a thank you and be careful with you're new model blurb.