I'm getting the itch!

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SavageDarwin

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So I've got a few of the parts in for my Savage X rebuild, been down for over a year with bad diffs. And I'm already getting the itch to run it already!



Still have a bit to go before it's running, que the waiting for ups truck memes lol
 
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SavageDarwin

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Just little update, the itch is getting worse! Lol still waiting on some things but got started on rebuild. Seeing the rc4me diff gears next to the stock ones make me feel pretty good about them. I'll upload a side be side when I work on it next. Ordered fuel and never received any info (been 11 days) so sent email and apparently my order never made it to shipping dept... should be here it before the savage is ready to run anyway
 

olds97_lss

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I didn't buy any of their diff gears yet, but the 5SC transmission is nice and is holding up well. It comes with a center diff that is the same as the flux front/rear diff with the alloy cup. The gear is different of course. I ran 3 or 4 packs through it and tore it back down to switch out the diff oil and all the gears in the transmission still looked like new.
 
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SavageDarwin

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Here's the comparison shots of the gears

Here is how I left it after working on it today

Still waiting on throttle servo, glow plugs, fuel, one way for starter.
 
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SavageDarwin

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All that I have done so far is replaced bearing in all but engine and trans, replaced diffs ring and pinion, cleaned and rebuilt diffs, installed swaybars, and replaced most of the hardware with stainless, installed new throttle servo, trimmed radio box lid for battery and voltage display.
 
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SavageDarwin

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Lookin nice so far. Just gonna make one suggestion. Don't use SS screws. They bend WAY to easy, esp the RC Screws ones. They also strip alot easier. I found out the hard way bacj in the day when I was Noob.
I understand where you are coming from, but can't stand Phillip's head screws when it hard to get the leverage to break free. I have some mip drivers and will get one size I need for these Allen head screws. I left the few black oxide allen screws where they were, really don't forsee any screws getting bent
 

xtremsavage

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I understand where you are coming from, but can't stand Phillip's head screws when it hard to get the leverage to break free. I have some mip drivers and will get one size I need for these Allen head screws. I left the few black oxide allen screws where they were, really don't forsee any screws getting bent
First bad landing and the long screw that the secure the shocks to the tower will bend. I can't remember the kit I got a long time ago, but McMaster Carr has the screw sizes we use for the savage and you buy them in bulk pks. Also, you can sometimes find them at Ace Hardware stores. McMaster Carr is also the best place to buy shims for the diffs.
 

olds97_lss

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First bad landing and the long screw that the secure the shocks to the tower will bend. I can't remember the kit I got a long time ago, but McMaster Carr has the screw sizes we use for the savage and you buy them in bulk pks. Also, you can sometimes find them at Ace Hardware stores. McMaster Carr is also the best place to buy shims for the diffs.
Been buying all my hardware from mcmaster.com for many years. I usually buy longer screws than I need then cut them down if I need shorter ones, then I don't have to have 20 sizes of each screw type.

Even with MIP, stainless heads just don't hold up well to maintenance. They still tend to strip once installed/removed a time or two. Especially 2mm and 1.5mm heads.
 
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SavageDarwin

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I'm not had nowhere near that much issues with stainless Allen screws, my other RCs run predominantly 2mm and 1.5mm hardware, there are some that I have taken in/out countless time without issues
 
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SavageDarwin

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I got it running a little today, got to figure out the tune some. As I was trying to dial in the tune and having to restart the one way bearing started slipping. Heres is my electronic setup, running UBEC in the space at back of radio box. I did have a slight hiccup as the new throttle servo decided to go hay wire, but I got a backups.

Modified the lid to clear the LiPo pack and for voltage display.

Now waiting for the one way bearings I ordered to arrive.
 
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Savage Darwin did you get a new transmission if so where did you get one? I have been searching one for the past week now know one had a transmission. Why am I looking for a new transmission? It’s because a few weeks back a gear broke in my transmission don’t know why. I ordered a new gear put it back together and it didn’t shift. Messed around with it forever and still no shift. I got mad and I said the hell with it I’m going to get a new transmission. One that’s already built so I don’t have to built it and see it not shift again. Couldn’t find one anywhere . If anyone is selling it or can tell me where to get one will be great.
 
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SavageDarwin

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Savage Darwin did you get a new transmission if so where did you get one? I have been searching one for the past week now know one had a transmission. Why am I looking for a new transmission? It’s because a few weeks back a gear broke in my transmission don’t know why. I ordered a new gear put it back together and it didn’t shift. Messed around with it forever and still no shift. I got mad and I said the hell with it I’m going to get a new transmission. One that’s already built so I don’t have to built it and see it not shift again. Couldn’t find one anywhere . If anyone is selling it or can tell me where to get one will be great.
Sorry it not new, I haven't even opened my trans up.
 
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Sorry it not new, I haven't even opened my trans up.
Ok. You might want to open the gear box up to see if there is a ton of plastic shavings like mine. I would recommend doing that because if you don’t you may strip a gear like I did and it will be a pain to fix it again.
 
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SavageDarwin

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Worked on the savage some today, replaced the one way bearing and fit a pullstart that I had(was from a redcat lol). Wanted something easier on the one way bearing and with the wheelie bar it's a pain to get the shaft in there. Finally got the servo I ordered for steering, and in the truck.
 
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SavageDarwin

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Well some how I forgot to say that I tore the exhaust coupler when putting engine back in. So in an attempt on not spending $9 on stock piece, bought a foot of 5/8" ID tubing to try. Had to shoehorn it on the muffler and snug on header. Hoping it holds up, will find out when I finally get some free time. Sadly not going to be any time soon as we are signing the papers tomorrow on a house.
 

olds97_lss

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Well some how I forgot to say that I tore the exhaust coupler when putting engine back in. So in an attempt on not spending $9 on stock piece, bought a foot of 5/8" ID tubing to try. Had to shoehorn it on the muffler and snug on header. Hoping it holds up, will find out when I finally get some free time. Sadly not going to be any time soon as we are signing the papers tomorrow on a house.
I've been using nylon reinforced silicone tubing for years for header couplers. I got 50 feet of it from my father in law that was going to be thrown out at his work. He brought it to my house thinking I could make use of it. I cut off 5 feet or so and pitched the rest... I was an idiot.

Have had this on my savage X for many years:


I have a L brace near the center of the pipe to keep it from flopping around as it was an LST pipe which was a "one piece" pipe without a coupler. I dremeled the groove/ring out of where the silicone gasket went so the ziptie could have somewhere to squeeze. Without the L brace, it would decouple, but with it, I have never had an issue. Another side effect of the brace, my header gaskets at the engine last nearly forever.

Also using it on my big block revo header, was an LST2 header that I mangled so I could get the THS BB pipe to fit where I wanted it with the New Era leaner mount.
 
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SavageDarwin

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I'm not sure what this tubing is made out of(it is reinforced), if it doesn't hold up on well only spent $1.24 on it. I had to stretch it by shoving a couple screwdrivers in the end to finally get over the muffler.
 

olds97_lss

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Olds , I like the Idea of the "L" bracket to support the Pipe . I'll have to give it a try.
Mine doesn't have a spring on it either. It came with the stock composite pipe. I made a stupid piece out of 1/4 steel round bar, then bolted an upright piece of smaller stock to it for the end of the pipe. Then I used 5/16's round bar to make the L bracket at the center of the pipe and put a piece of rubber hose on the round bar where it contacts the pipe so it doesn't rub/dent it up. It doesn't move at all.

Found an old photo that shows it a bit better:


I got tired of the spring mount cracking/breaking, head gaskets getting chewed up and the coupler ripping off. Getting 8+ feet of air under it makes for tough landings for things that are allowed to move. All I want moving is the suspension.
 
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