I just got a hpi savage x and it was sitting for about 5 years and i need IMMEDIATE HELP

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Lmike357

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6
I got it and when I started it up , it freaking took off without me making it drive .. then it has a high pitched screech and it smells like somethings burning ... i need advice and help ANYONE !
 
Make sure the carb is closed before you start it lol. Other than that the screeching could be a myriad of different things, we will definitely need some more specific info
 
I love your enthusiasim in this post @Lmike357 ?

Like @upbasher1 said, make sure the throttle is closed before starting your car. Make sure the Transmitter and Receiver are both powered on, the steering and throttle works, then prep to start the car.

I must say, after 5 years and not running I'm amazed it started so easy (by the sounds of things).

Finally, please give us more info on your situation ?
 
Lol ? well for more specifics, I was given the Hpu savage as a gift , but it was bunkered in storage so it has sat for 5 years is what I was told , I got the hpi cleaned up and and gased up and used the roto starter to start it and as soon as it cranked on , all 4 wheels started spinning out of control and the entire RC took off without me even engaging the cluth on the rc remote , I finally caught up to it and got it off and started YouTubing and looking for help and I haven't found much resourceful HELP .. i then took the engine apart gave it a good wipe down and clean and lube with WD40 and i reassembled it and the same exact thing reaccured , this time I was smart enough to put it on a crate so it wouldn't take off on me lol. I started it up and followed guidelines about the high speed screw settings and low-speed screw setting and as I started it for the third time ... it did the exact same thing ... the wheels spent out of control and it was revving at an high rate as if I had my finger on the throttle at full speed .. it smelt like something was burning and another of white smoke came out from the muffler .. lol so now I need help so that I don't ruin it blow the engine or cause damage to it .. i would like to get it started as if it was right out the box and I need to know how to get all settings to that point or what to do ?
 
Lol ? well for more specifics, I was given the Hpu savage as a gift , but it was bunkered in storage so it has sat for 5 years is what I was told , I got the hpi cleaned up and and gased up and used the roto starter to start it and as soon as it cranked on , all 4 wheels started spinning out of control and the entire RC took off without me even engaging the cluth on the rc remote , I finally caught up to it and got it off and started YouTubing and looking for help and I haven't found much resourceful HELP .. i then took the engine apart gave it a good wipe down and clean and lube with WD40 and i reassembled it and the same exact thing reaccured , this time I was smart enough to put it on a crate so it wouldn't take off on me lol. I started it up and followed guidelines about the high speed screw settings and low-speed screw setting and as I started it for the third time ... it did the exact same thing ... the wheels spent out of control and it was revving at an high rate as if I had my finger on the throttle at full speed .. it smelt like something was burning and another of white smoke came out from the muffler .. lol so now I need help so that I don't ruin it blow the engine or cause damage to it .. i would like to get it started as if it was right out the box and I need to know how to get all settings to that point or what to do ?
 
Mate are you actually using the controller to run this? Whats the carby like? the idle screw back to factory?
You can't tune something that you can't control so that isn't your issue here. Your issue is the idle meaning you need to look at the idle screw or the throttle servo and its connections to the carby.

Take the air filter off, close the throttle, and take a photo of the intake. Take a look at the PDF I've attached, it shows what the carby is supposed to look like when the throttle is closed. There should be a small gap when the throttle is at neutral position, about 1mm gap.

It sounds to me like you've got no control over the throttle which leads me to believe that you're starting it with no power to the throttle/brake servo.
 

Attachments

  • XL Throttle Trim.pdf
    508.7 KB · Views: 11
Something is causing the carburetor to stick open. Take the air filter off and look in the carburetor. Move the throttle linkage by pulling the trigger on the remote. You should see the carb slide in the carburetor move. It needs to be CLOSED when starting. Pulling the trigger on the remote should OPEN it (Engine revs up), and when you release the trigger it should immediately go back to closed (idle speed). If the slide is not all the way closed when you are not touching the remote, you need to either adjust the thottle trim on the remote so that it is, OR if thats not enough to get it all the way closed, set the thottle trim back to neutral, remove the servo horn, and reinstall so that it is. The thottle linkage on the savage is very simple and pretty much self explanatory, so it should be pretty easy to get it set up correctly
 

Was this taken when the throttle was at neutral position? If so I'd recommend unscrewing the idle needle a touch. Looks a wee bit to big a gap.
Put the HSN and LSN to factory and adjust the idle separately. Note that once you tune the HSN and LSN afterwards, you'll likely need to adjust the idle screw again.

How does the carbie respond when you pull the throttle trigger on your transmitter? And when you brake? You don't need it running for this, just check how the carbie reacts.
When you go full throttle and let go, does it return to normal position or does it "stick" a bit more open than it should?
 
Well the gap might be a little too big but that sure doesnt make the car act like its WOT.
If you start the car in that throttle position and it goes full speed then I would suspect a huge fuel leak in carbureutor. Take it off, take the needles out, clean the carb body, inspect needle gaskets.
Also it seems like your clutchbell is shimmed too much, clutch shoes are not in there.
 
Manual says 1mm so your not far off. That is not your wide open throttle issue!!
 
Just to confirm, you do have the transmitter on, the receiver on and when your not trying to start it, the throttle/brake servo moves with the trigger properly and with the trigger at resting position (idle), the carb does close as you showed in the photo?

This has a photo of the 1mm-2mm that was talked about:
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/post-537066

When looking down the carb throat with the filter off, you can see a gap on one side. That's the idle gap. If your transmitter is on, receiver is on and transmitter trim is at 0, that gap should be the smallest it will get. If you apply brake, the gap shouldn't change. The idle screw (also noted in that thread) holds it from closing all the way, but it relies on the throttle servo to keep it closed. The TRS (throttle return spring) will help if the receiver is off or battery goes dead, but if the receiver is on and your linkage isn't setup right or the throttle trim isn't set right, it will hold the carb open further than idle.
 
They do suffer with air leaks. Make sure the card got about a 1mm gap and trim turned down on the controller
 
Make sure all electronics on the truck are off. Push the slide on carb close. (inward) Be sure it stays in that position by its self.
Again with the electronics off now start the motor and let it idle if it will. You can adjust a running motor without the truck being on.
I am guessing you have a bad throttle servo or have it in reverse position. As in squeeze the throttle carb closes, release the throttle carb opens. Go over the electronics and adjustments with out the truck running to verify all is correct. This link is your bible! Read and learn this and you will become a tuning god!!
https://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-nitro-engine-zone/295490-tuning-bible.html
 

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