Hpi Savage 4.6 gt-6 v2

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Dmkkings

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I have a savage 4.6 v2! I have ran the takes through the vehicle for the break in procedure. I ran a couple of tanks through it for tunning sessions. I then decided to tear it apart to put all Stainless steal screws in it and aluminium clutch pedals. So I then get it back together and on startup it revs all most it seems at full throttle, and the tires spin like crazy! I have tried adjusting every dam needle on the vehicle and nothing! Still the same dam symptoms! I did notice that there is a corner piece of rubber missing on the corner of the gasket the goes between motor and the exhaust pipe. Also when I pull the trigger for the throttle, and let go the needle doesn't return all the way gas to flush against valve needle unless I push on it with my hand! Any advice would be much appreciated.
 
I have a savage 4.6 v2! I have ran the takes through the vehicle for the break in procedure. I ran a couple of tanks through it for tunning sessions. I then decided to tear it apart to put all Stainless steal screws in it and aluminium clutch pedals. So I then get it back together and on startup it revs all most it seems at full throttle, and the tires spin like crazy! I have tried adjusting every dam needle on the vehicle and nothing! Still the same dam symptoms! I did notice that there is a corner piece of rubber missing on the corner of the gasket the goes between motor and the exhaust pipe. Also when I pull the trigger for the throttle, and let go the needle doesn't return all the way gas to flush against valve needle unless I push on it with my hand! Any advice would be much appreciated.
Take some pictures and I'll try to help. 👍
 
I'm very dubious that stainless screws are the right choice for the Savage, as they tend to be very soft. Whilst there are advantages with machine threads Vs much coarser self tapping threads, this is of no consequence if you strip the heads of virtually every screw on the car.

Titanium screw kits would be lighter and harder than stainless. But I still recommend steel screws for critical components (like engine mounts) or any metal to metal fixings.

Aluminium clutch shoes require frequent maintenance and develop a lot of heat. This necessitates more bearing changes.

A better choice for the Savage would be a slider clutch system with composite shoes:

IMG_20200429_121238.webp
This setup has much more clutch shoe surface area and won't kill your bearings - because even when it's being thrashed around, it doesn't seem to get hot.
 
PXL_20250416_210821996.MP.webp
PXL_20250416_210847453.MP.webp
PXL_20250416_210831152.MP.webp
Linkages have to be set up just right. This is how I run mine.

Check your radio's end points and observe the operation of your throttle and brake linkages before you attempt to start the engine next time, else you might end up with a run away - that's no joke with a 12lb truck.
 
ye like Horatio said check the throttle n brake linkage sounds like it’s not returning to idle
 
@Dmkkings ,
I WOULD LOOK FOR THE RETURN SPRING FOR THE CARB SLIDE.
YOU CAN SEE IT IN THE OVERHEAD PIC HORATIO SENT,
IT GOES FROM THE HIGH SPEED NEEDLE/FUEL INLET TO THE
THROTLE LINKAGE BALL.

1746987565008.webp
 

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