Help! Can’t get truck started!

Jfish930

Member
Messages
28
Hello all,

After having an excellent break in day yesterday, today I can’t get the truck started. Both roto charge and glow at plug charger were charged overnight.

I just set the hi speed needle back to factory setting. Check for flooding several times. I am now going to change the glow plug even though it glow nicely. Seeking help and rather frustrated

Thank you

Jfish
 

Jfish930

Member
Messages
28
Thanks Jam 1. Tried that and still no go. Also checked to make sure carb is set and is set at same when it ran well yesterday.

Once I clear the engine for flooding, should I be putting my finger over the pipe to get fuel in the line again? I’ve tried everything and don’t know what to do.

In the old days, you turned the truck upside down when clearing flooding. I guess you don’t need to do that now according to the manual?
 

Jfish930

Member
Messages
28
Got it running finally! Runs even better than yesterday’s break in session. Shifts into 2nd earlier now.
Thanks again Jam 1!
 

olds97_lss

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When flooded, I still take the glowplug out, turn upside down and pull the cord a few times. Put the plug back in and let the heater sit on the plug for 5-10 seconds before trying to start. I usually don't reprime as it's already saturated inside the crank case and fuel is usually in the lines.
 

Jfish930

Member
Messages
28
Thanks for the advice olds97! That is exactly what I ended up doing and it worked like a charm!

Now the issue is that after day two, my spur gear got eaten (not sure how that happened). Now I have to wait a week or so for parts since my lhs doesn’t stock them. I went with the Robinson Racing metal 47t and also ordered a 17t clutch bell from RR just in case.
 

olds97_lss

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If you chewed the teeth off it, then you didn't have good mesh. If you melted the center out of it, then you had the slipper too loose. Either scenario won't hold up well even with a steel spur.

I had issues with the slipper slipping even at almost full lock when I tried running 47/17 gearing. I ended up getting an HPI steel spur to combat that, as once it slipped, the heat would melt the spur. I was fine with 49/16, but even though the engine could pull 47/17 very well, it would slip on me when I ran in the grass after a tank or two.
 

Jfish930

Member
Messages
28
thanks olds97. Ya it was the teeth that got chewed up. Most likely my fault for not checking/tightening any screws when it came from the factory. I will be sure to do that and make sure I have a tight mesh once the new spur is installed. Thanks!
 

X

Conspiracy of One
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thanks olds97. Ya it was the teeth that got chewed up. Most likely my fault for not checking/tightening any screws when it came from the factory. I will be sure to do that and make sure I have a tight mesh once the new spur is installed. Thanks!

Also make sure all chassis components appear to be sitting correctly and that there are no cracks. No amount of good meshing will save you if the chassis is tweaked.
 

olds97_lss

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Location
Dekalb, IL 60115
Those 4 screws under the motor mount like to rattle loose. I've had better luck replacing them with too long of a screw and putting a locknut on the underside. It's a pain to do, but saves you the aggravation of pulling the engine later.
 

Jfish930

Member
Messages
28
Great advice olds97! I will check them for tightness and may use lock nuts / longer screws like you did
 

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