Garage Sale Find. Deal or no Deal?

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Picked up a Savage 25 plus a whole pile of parts and tools for $30. I had no idea what to expect really.
I build and fly electric planes and just recently picked up a Litehawk Crusher which I bash around with a 2s battery.
I saw the Savage and was and am still very intimidated because it has nitro engines which I wanted to steer clear of for a great many reasons.
After reading lots and inspecting, I found that all parts are there (I think) but the pull chord does not turn the installed Axial engine and original 25 does not turn by hand at the flywheel.
I thought "great, e-conversion time!" After checking the parts, prices and involvement, that idea was shot down.
Now back to the idea of probably having to rebuild the engines. Just a piston and crank run $86 US which is well over $100 plus duty and shipping to Canada and not including gaskets or whatever else.
$30 or free, I'm apprehensive about spending plenty of unknown $ for hard to find parts. My gf may be forgiving but not a few hundred type of forgiving.
Any ideas?
 

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Jam Racing 1

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Yep, that will be alot of work to get in shape for bashing, the engine is most likely gunked up with congealed oil after sitting awhile so a teardown and cleaning will be in order, while it is apart you may as well clean up the rest of the rig and check for broken parts also....
Sadly parts for the Savage line are difficult to source and in Canada I can see that being even more difficult....
Good Luck with your project, there are many helpful guys here so any questions feel free to ask away.....
 

ELWOOD

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Planesortruks,

Man $30 for a complete Savage WITH parts and Tools, consider your self ahead of the game even IF you have to replace/rebuild engine .
First I would go buy a LOTTO ticket and then follow JAMS lead and do a tear-down and clean, you will probably find some rust on crank but if bearings are OK your good to go .
 
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Some good news. The original hpi engine turns. I tried channel lock pliers and worked. The piston had lubrication and was able to turn by hand after. Also felt compression so may work. The tool kit had some type of renew lubricant I put into the glow hole and carb of the axial so I will let it sit and see. Would be awesome to have some type of flywheel turner like we used on full size engines just to get it free while in the chassis.
 
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ELWOOD

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Some good news. The original hpi engine turns. I tried channel lock pliers and worked. The piston had lubrication and was able to turn by hand after. Also felt compression so may work. The tool kit had some type of renew lubricant I put into the glow hole and carb of the axial so I will let it sit and see. Would be awesome to have some type of flywheel turner like we used on full size engines just to get it free while in the chassis.

They are called starter boxes, there mainly for "PAN" cars . Still your best bet is to disassemble both engines and do a seal job on them to eliminate future issues on engines you have no history on other then they have been sitting around.
 
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What about converting it into an electric 2wd buggy. Pretty sure I could strip it down a few pounds. I have a 5s 5000mah LiPo. Electric motors are cheap too. I could sell the motors and unneeded parts. Is there a 2wd conversion kit or gears? Maybe that's a crazy idea but that's ok. I often stray from the box.
 
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Used brake and carb cleaner to free up both engines. The carb on the axial was also really gummed up. Only thing left is replacing the 4AA servo batteries that died because I accidentally left it on. If both engines work, I will sell them and get what I need to make this electric. I don't understand why anyone wants glow power with all the fuss. Just getting a weed wacker going is enough to frustrate anyone.
 

ELWOOD

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Used brake and carb cleaner to free up both engines. The carb on the axial was also really gummed up. Only thing left is replacing the 4AA servo batteries that died because I accidentally left it on. If both engines work, I will sell them and get what I need to make this electric. I don't understand why anyone wants glow power with all the fuss. Just getting a weed wacker going is enough to frustrate anyone.

Be careful with the Brake cleaner , It has the tendency to "EAT" plastics and composites. That being said Its No "FUSS" to those that understand and can master these little Nitro beasts. Part of the Hobby is the satisfaction you get after breaking in an engine and tuning it , then there's the sound and the smell of Nitro. I have nothing against electric, just saying, no judgement here. Later
 

Jam Racing 1

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Used brake and carb cleaner to free up both engines. The carb on the axial was also really gummed up. Only thing left is replacing the 4AA servo batteries that died because I accidentally left it on. If both engines work, I will sell them and get what I need to make this electric. I don't understand why anyone wants glow power with all the fuss. Just getting a weed wacker going is enough to frustrate anyone.

I have both electric and nitro, I enjoy both but nitro powered stuff always gets my blood pumping and adrenaline flowing much more than electric ever does, I have always been a gear head anyway (40 years as a mechanic will do that)...
Tuning is just second nature and easy to do once you understand the basics......
 
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Had the axial running for a few seconds. The plus side is the smell of the fuel. Might have flooded it or lack of fuel.
I do enjoy tinkering but plugging in a battery and turning the radio and going is trouble free. 25 years ago I owned a 77 Firebird with a carter carb that needed daily adjusting. Was fun for first week lol.
 
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ELWOOD

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Used brake and carb cleaner to free up both engines. The carb on the axial was also really gummed up. Only thing left is replacing the 4AA servo batteries that died because I accidentally left it on. If both engines work, I will sell them and get what I need to make this electric. I don't understand why anyone wants glow power with all the fuss. Just getting a weed wacker going is enough to frustrate anyone.
Maybe you need an Electric Weed Wacker :nailbite: LOL
 
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Was running beautifully. Go inside, eat, come back out to put on the tires and connect the cage and only runs for a second. Nothing got disconnected or moved. This is why I want to convert it to electric. Blisters and ripped hands from the pull chord plus no run makes for massive frustration.
 

Northernnightmare

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This is also why most should maybe stick with the traxxas kids toys section :rolleyes:

Nitro is very easy to use, my nephews all under 10 can figure it out!

Only people with not a clue or any patience have problems.

PS conversion belong in the flux section people :banghead:
 

Jam Racing 1

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The thing I find about most nitro newbies is that they make adjustments in way too big of increments and don't follow basic proven tuning measures, if you are new make SMALL changes until you get it in the ball park, a 1 hour on the clockface adjustment can make a BIG difference in tune.....
 
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I made absolutely no adjustments. It ran perfect for 5 min, even while going through the throttle. No sputtering or anything. Now, I can't get it going for more than a couple seconds.
I believe it to be the glow plug. This truck came with four, two don't glow, one has a white element and only the tip glows and the other barely glows at all.
There is compression, air and fuel with no bubbles in the line.
If anyone thinks glow plugs are not the problem, I don't mind opinions.
 

Jam Racing 1

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invest in some new medium glow plugs, and old plugs can cause many issues ,you should be prepared to replace them at any time, as for old plugs throw away any that are suspect.... always make sure any plug you install has a gasket also otherwise the piston can contact the plug base and crack the piston or worse...
 

X

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This is also why most should maybe stick with the traxxas kids toys section :rolleyes:

Nitro is very easy to use, my nephews all under 10 can figure it out!

Only people with not a clue or any patience have problems.

PS conversion belong in the flux section people :banghead:
This is a forum to help people, not cut them down. If this is the best you can do, please don't post.
 
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Problem was the carb. Probably dirt inside from cleaning it. I bench tested the hpi 25 engine and it fired right up easily.
I swapped out the axial and had a good 10 min run around the yard before it started pouring. The hpi had a roto start so no ripped skin either.
I'm no beginner with engines as I've rebuild quite a few Chev 350's many years ago. I laugh at anyone who thinks I'm an ignorant beginner better suited for electric. My beef is that I like plug and play better because it's simply faster and faster to get going and no maintenance.
Due to upper body mobility issues, I enjoy what's easiest. Pulling a chord was not easy. My drill made that so much better.
Probably go mucking in the mud later. Cheers!
 

Jam Racing 1

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I am a retired Mechanic also 40 years of working outside in rain, freezing cold has taken a toll on my body, shoulders don't work right after 2 rotator surgeries on each one...
I have been playing with R/C since 1986 , my first was an old Grasshopper I got from a shop kid for 50 bux and it has snowballed from there, I got into Nitro in about 1990 with a USA1 Nitro Crusher I bought brand new (still have it also)...
I have preferred roto type starters and use a Tiger Drive on most all my nitro rigs except the Savage and the Nitro Crusher, roto on the savage and a starter box on the nitro crusher... it is all in what you like I personally LOVE my ClodBusters, I have 3 all are modified in some way or another, I have 40 some cars in my fleet, some I don't run anymore due to parts avalibility but I still keep them.... I know I have a disease called collectoritis :)
Either way it is all in what you like...
Welcome to the :hpisf: above all keep enjoying and having fun......
 

ELWOOD

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Here's a minute of mucking. I was holding the phone so a minute was good. Ran it through a tank and got nice and muddy.
This came with a new reverse module which I should figure out how to install.
" I don't understand why anyone wants glow power with all the fuss "
" Was a blast! "

NOW YOU'RE HOOKED
I have the 87032 Reverse Module Install Instructions ( without mixer ) if you need it.
 
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So, today I take the Savage to a great spot and bam, no start. I know I know, don't drive in water but really. Even if moisture got into the carb, wouldn't the fuel purge it as in every other type engine?
The glow plugs light good and fuel starts coming out of the exhaust after priming. I went home and tried again in an hour just in case it was flooded. No go.
 

ELWOOD

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So, today I take the Savage to a great spot and bam, no start. I know I know, don't drive in water but really. Even if moisture got into the carb, wouldn't the fuel purge it as in every other type engine?
The glow plugs light good and fuel starts coming out of the exhaust after priming. I went home and tried again in an hour just in case it was flooded. No go.


If fuel is dripping out the exhaust after priming then you have a flooded engine. Priming usually only takes a couple of pulls with exhaust plugged and partial throttle. To clear flooded engine remove glow plug and turn engine over with rag covering top of engine at partial throttle. hope this helps.

Have you checked out these yet?--
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/list-of-useful-nitro-engine-threads.13941/
 
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If fuel is dripping out the exhaust after priming then you have a flooded engine. Priming usually only takes a couple of pulls with exhaust plugged and partial throttle. To clear flooded engine remove glow plug and turn engine over with rag covering top of engine at partial throttle. hope this helps.

Have you checked out these yet?--
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/list-of-useful-nitro-engine-threads.13941/
Yes, thank you but I didn't flood it until after it failed to start thinking that moisture may be in the carb. I will go back at it again.
 
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Took the air filter assembly off, cleaned and re-oiled. Put some drops of the moisture displacing stuff in carb and piston. Inspected down the carb and piston head. Nothing.
 
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