Flux HP upgrade, help needed

GmanNL

Member
Messages
26
Hello,

I bought a second hand Savage Flux HP which is mostly stock.
I'm looking for upgrades that will make it more robust.
Not looking for much bling.

After doing a lot of reading/watching on this forum & youtube and a little help from olds97_lss in my welcome topic I came to this list:

rc4me order.PNG

Maybe HEAVY DUTY DIFF SHAFT as well?

Not sure about the stock shocks. People tell me they are good but need alu caps, which i can't find.

I bought Proline Trenchers. 17mm convertion is still on the to-do list.
 
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olds97_lss

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I think the flux HP already comes with the super HD diff cups and bones. I think it comes with the shorter wheel hubs with the super HD cups on them in stock form... can't recall if they are short or long. Pretty sure short and the XL came with long. If yours is starting as a flux, I don't think there's really any difference in the center axles from the old savages. The XL would have a longer rear center than the standard flux HP, not sure about the front.

I've had OK luck with the stock plastic servo saver parts. The only issue I had was when mine had the FLM ackerman bar with improper screws/bushings. That bar allows for more aggressive steering angles. The truck had it on it when I bought it. I removed the entire assembly and replaced it with a new plastic saver/ackerman bar from rc4me.

If I didn't give it to you already, here's my thread on the super 5sc transmission install with the gearing and oil weights I used along with videos:
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/rc4me-center-diff-super-5sc-transmission-in-my-hpi-savage-flux-hp.18833/

From what I've read, the hot racing 17mm hub adapters are the best ones to get vs using the HPI hex's with the flange nuts. I broke a lot of those nuts on my savage and revos as I use them on those too.
 

GmanNL

Member
Messages
26
I think the flux HP already comes with the super HD diff cups and bones. I think it comes with the shorter wheel hubs with the super HD cups on them in stock form... can't recall if they are short or long. Pretty sure short and the XL came with long. If yours is starting as a flux, I don't think there's really any difference in the center axles from the old savages. The XL would have a longer rear center than the standard flux HP, not sure about the front.
You are right, if you look at the stock flux hp parts it's got the super heavy-duty dogbones. Should be the right length.

If I didn't give it to you already, here's my thread on the super 5sc transmission install with the gearing and oil weights I used along with videos:
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/rc4me-center-diff-super-5sc-transmission-in-my-hpi-savage-flux-hp.18833/
Yes good topic! I'm reading it. You also wrote a review.
Just swap the drive shaft + gear right?
I wonder if rc4me changed it.

From what I've read, the hot racing 17mm hub adapters are the best ones to get vs using the HPI hex's with the flange nuts. I broke a lot of those nuts on my savage and revos as I use them on those too.
Thanks, ill order them one day.
 

olds97_lss

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Just swap the drive shaft + gear right?
I wonder if rc4me changed it.
The 5SC came with a different kind of slipper I think. It didn't have a washer that was keyed to the shaft. I'm not sure how well that would have worked as it would have been likely to tighten the slipper nut, or loosen it, whenever it slipped.

Regardless, the standard flux shaft works just fine. You just have to swap the gears from the 5SC top shaft to the flux top shaft, then use it instead with your slipper/spur/spring/washer/nut.
 

Biddie_fiddler

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HPISF Supporter
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133
Location
Perth, WA
I'm currently waiting on a new set of tvp's from alza racing for my flux xl. I have already bought and rebuilt the trans diff.... came with some pretty average parts in it which I was really surprised by. I will be posting about this in the next couple weeks once all the parts for my rebuild are done.

I recommend having a spare diff case handy for the trans diff. The metal injection they do is way too brittle. My diff case had 3 of the 4 slots inside broken and a crack on the housing itself
20190119_152108.jpg20190119_152423.jpg20190119_152427.jpg
 

GmanNL

Member
Messages
26
I'm mailing with rc4me to get my order out. (Little problem with shipping outside usa).
I went for the list above minus the servo saver, flux hp already has it :)
Ordered the warlock nuts too since it gets so many great reviews.

Also, my ESC BEC has some problem, it powers the receiver but the servo does not work.
This is probably caused by a aftermarked servo + BEC to power the lights which is powered through the receiver/esc bec.
I ordered an external BEC to bypass it.

@Biddie_fiddler that looks bad. ill keep it in mind.
 

olds97_lss

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I'm currently waiting on a new set of tvp's from alza racing for my flux xl. I have already bought and rebuilt the trans diff.... came with some pretty average parts in it which I was really surprised by. I will be posting about this in the next couple weeks once all the parts for my rebuild are done.

I recommend having a spare diff case handy for the trans diff. The metal injection they do is way too brittle. My diff case had 3 of the 4 slots inside broken and a crack on the housing itself
View attachment 6242View attachment 6243View attachment 6244
Weird. I don't recall mine having those issues. Just was a bit dry inside with a little grease.


Is yours from a front/rear diff or from the super 5SC transmission center diff? From rc4me.us right?
 

Biddie_fiddler

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HPISF Supporter
Messages
133
Location
Perth, WA
Is yours from a front/rear diff or from the super 5SC transmission center diff? From rc4me.us right?
Yea it was.

I was pretty disappointed with how mine came, but everything else was really nice, the gears and all are nice.
The other part I have from them that is injection molded is just as bad. It won't last at all. Even for parts made in china they are way below average. I reckon they use a sand cast which would be why
The way they do their injection molding could use some work. The grain structure of the pieces is very course, not good at all for strength.
 

GmanNL

Member
Messages
26
I'm pretty sure they help you out if you show them the pictures.
My order is out. I'll let you know if mine is bad as well.
 

Biddie_fiddler

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HPISF Supporter
Messages
133
Location
Perth, WA
I'm pretty sure they help you out if you show them the pictures.
My order is out. I'll let you know if mine is bad as well.
Their service is outstanding, its not their side thats the issue with the parts, its a manufacturing thing. I'll be sure to let them know however once I have it all together.
 

Biddie_fiddler

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HPISF Supporter
Messages
133
Location
Perth, WA
Would be nice if they showed the inside so you could see if it uses the steel inserts or not. I wouldn't buy one that didn't use the inserts. As it is, HPI OEM parts are becoming available again, so you could just buy the HPI part off ebay or from another site.
I agree. When possible I try to buy hpi stuff, so long as the price is stupid. The hp diff housing isnt usually too expensive I don't think.
 

GmanNL

Member
Messages
26
Update: Got the RC4me stuff, the bearings, the UBEC, diff oils and got the car running.

After replacing the servo + installed UBEC the savage still won't steer (just a little)
It seems there was nothing wrong with the car, it just needed a re-binding :rolleyes:
RC nevers stops amazing me.

I got the wrong wheel bearings. i bought 6x12x4. The right size is 8x16x5 (HPI part number #B085)
But i'll order them in china, they are much cheaper. (look for 688RS bearing)
 

GmanNL

Member
Messages
26
I need a little help.
I mounted the wide axle's and the Hot Racing Hex hubs together with the Trenchers but i got slack on the wheels.
I put the big purple ring on backwards to fill it up a little but it's not enough.
The wheelnut is not deep enough.
I think a washer will fix it but how's this on your rigs?

Update A washer fixed it but i think it's strange :rolleyes:
 
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olds97_lss

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Slack where? Between the hub and the axle carrier?

I had to add a few shims on each of mine when I was running the wide axles with HPI hubs as there was about 2mm of in/out slop between the bushing and the bearing.
 

GmanNL

Member
Messages
26
No the rim is not thick enough. The bolt is on very tight but the rim can go up/down.
The washer i have is pretty thick so the nut has not much thread.
It's solved but i'll try to find a thinner washer.
 

olds97_lss

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I've only ever run 4S on my Flux HP. It's pretty brutal with that. Can't imagine how twitchy it would be on anything more! I think I have my punch dialed down to 10 or 20% on my MMX/2200 system, just to make it more manageable.
 

NightFlier X4.6

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Location
Ohio
I've only ever run 4S on my Flux HP. It's pretty brutal with that. Can't imagine how twitchy it would be on anything more! I think I have my punch dialed down to 10 or 20% on my MMX/2200 system, just to make it more manageable.
It’s insane!
 
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